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Discussion Starter #1
I am wanting my LE trade in 1.0 40's trigger to be as crisp and feel like the 2.0 trigger is.
How do I accomplish this?
 

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Ive read a lot of people have replaced their 1.0 trigger with an aftermarket one. Mines a 2.0 so I haven’t done it but my friend in law enforcement replaced his 1.0 trigger with an Apex trigger and swears by it.
 

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Buy an Apex DCAEK (Duty Carry Action Enhancement Kit) and install the new sear, sear spring, striker block and striker block spring. The cost is modest and the difference will be staggering.

The installation is pretty straight forward and there are YouTube videos and videos on Apex's web site showing how it's done
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Buy an Apex DCAEK (Duty Carry Action Enhancement Kit) and install the new sear, sear spring, striker block and striker block spring. The cost is modest and the difference will be staggering.

The installation is pretty straight forward and there are YouTube videos and videos on Apex's web site showing how it's done
I have this kit in one of my M&P's already. But, it's nothing like the 2.0 trigger.
 

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I had the gunsmith at my LGS work the stock triggers on my Gen 1 9c and Shield. Don't know how they match up to an Apex, but they're a lot better than they were.
 

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Every 1,0 trigger I've had has been decent and left as is, and every 2.0 trigger I've had is heavy and gritty and was changed out immediately with Apex parts.
I'm still waiting to see one of those "new and Improved" stellar 2.0 triggers.
 

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Process to make your 1.0 M&P's trigger like a 2.0.

1. Box up your 1.0.
2. Take it to a local gun store or post it on a trade site.
3. Sell it or trade it.
4. Get a 2.0.
5. Enjoy!

Seriously, like was already said, the Apex triggers for a 1.0 aren't the same as a factory 2.0. I've had two of the 1.0s with aftermarket triggers. I much prefer the reliability, feel and safety of the 2.0 factory trigger to any trigger or trigger work to a 1.0. I sold all of my 1.0s for 2.0s.
 

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Every 1,0 trigger I've had has been decent and left as is, and every 2.0 trigger I've had is heavy and gritty and was changed out immediately with Apex parts.
I'm still waiting to see one of those "new and Improved" stellar 2.0 triggers.
YMMV. I've shot, inspected or worked on dozens of 2.0s and not one has had a gritty trigger. The 2020 manufactured guns' triggers are even shorter and crisper than the older ones.
 

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Mass production, produced a quality handgun for the price, but lacks some of the refinement points. READ THIS! http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
THEN DO THIS
and a couple of hours and $10.00 worth of stuff you should have anyway, and you have a very good piece. However: two other points, if you will for the first 30-60 days keep the gun stored with the slide locked back and with the mags. (kept separately) fully loaded. it will make for a differently handling gun. I also changed out my sights. (I have more than one) I carry one EDC 18+ hours a day. Then go use it. regularly I find that 95% of complaints are lack on knowledge and or experience, and or poor skill
Or you can do like most; complain and find fault in everything but yourself.
 

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Mass production, produced a quality handgun for the price, but lacks some of the refinement points. READ THIS! http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
THEN DO THIS
and a couple of hours and $10.00 worth of stuff you should have anyway, and you have a very good piece. However: two other points, if you will for the first 30-60 days keep the gun stored with the slide locked back and with the mags. (kept separately) fully loaded. it will make for a differently handling gun. I also changed out my sights. (I have more than one) I carry one EDC 18+ hours a day. Then go use it. regularly I find that 95% of complaints are lack on knowledge and or experience, and or poor skill
Or you can do like most; complain and find fault in everything but yourself.
Speaking of lack of knowledge or experience.

Opening a slide and leaving it open does nothing. Just like leaving a mag loaded does nothing.
Springs weaken from cycling.

What you mean to say is load and unload the mag a few dozen times, cycle the slide a few hundred times and they will be easier to use.

Here is one of dozens of articles on the web about this.

 

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Speaking of lack of knowledge or experience.

Opening a slide and leaving it open does nothing. Just like leaving a mag loaded does nothing.
Springs weaken from cycling.

What you mean to say is load and unload the mag a few dozen times, cycle the slide a few hundred times and they will be easier to use.

Here is one of dozens of articles on the web about this.

Some but would take years to degrade to the point of being ineffective. But, after a month or so it makes them a little easier to load. I keep 5 loaded always; 1 in the firearm, 1 in my left front pocket, (I carry everyday, all day) 3 in my Jeep, console passenger rear door and inside the rear door. Staged around the vehicle so if I find my self in a defense situation I may be force to one are over another using cover and moving.
 

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I am wanting my LE trade in 1.0 40's trigger to be as crisp and feel like the 2.0 trigger is.
How do I accomplish this?
If you’re mechanically competent, you could disassemble the firearm and buff/ hone the appropriate parts, similar to the video link below. (You’ll also need to follow that Part 1 video with the Part 2 video that is available on youtube.) I would CAUTION you, however, to be careful not to change the angles on the sear as you polish it; if you round the edge of the sear, you’ll either give the trigger a mushy break, or worse, you’ll prevent it from catching the striker, possibly allowing the striker to go forward unintentionally to fire multiple shots per trigger pull or to slip and cause an accidental discharge. However, done properly, you can greatly improve a Shield 1.0 trigger. The trigger on my Shield 45 1.0 now breaks cleanly and consistently at 3 lb 11 oz.; for comparison, the trigger on my M&P 2.0 PC model is about 5 lb. (and rougher)— straight from the performance center shop. I’ll need to improve it a bit also.
 

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I am wanting my LE trade in 1.0 40's trigger to be as crisp and feel like the 2.0 trigger is.
How do I accomplish this?
Send your 1.0 back to S&W for the Action Carry package, its $125, I think. It will come back with the action of a 2.0, if not a bit better. I was about to sell my 1.0 and buy a 2.0, when i decided to do this.

When I got the gun back, I shot it against a relatives 2.0 and you really couldn’t tell the difference, well maybe, as my gun did feel ever so slightly better. In addition to polishing, you get the Performance Center Sear, enough said. Good Luck in whatever you decide.
 

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If you're hot for a 2.0 trigger in your 1.0, you could always just buy a 2.0 trigger bar (and trigger, obviously) and a 2.0 sear housing block and drop them into your 1.0. I did just this thing, and am loving the 2.0 trigger in my "hybrid."
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you're hot for a 2.0 trigger in your 1.0, you could always just buy a 2.0 trigger bar (and trigger, obviously) and a 2.0 sear housing block and drop them into your 1.0. I did just this thing, and am loving the 2.0 trigger in my "hybrid."
I Googled the parts and there are 4 sear housings.
Can you please post where you bought the parts, and part numbers?
Thank You!
 

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I Googled the parts and there are 4 sear housings.
Can you please post where you bought the parts, and part numbers?
Thank You!
Hi.

I usually get my stuff from Midwest Gun Works. Here's the trigger and here's the sear housing block. Sometimes they're out of stock.

I got my latest parts from Freestone Amory from Parker, CO. He has an eBay store. Great guy, great supply, fast shipping.

Here's the trigger and here's the sear housing block.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi.

I usually get my stuff from Midwest Gun Works. Here's the trigger and here's the sear housing block. Sometimes they're out of stock.

I got my latest parts from Freestone Amory from Parker, CO. He has an eBay store. Great guy, great supply, fast shipping.

Here's the trigger and here's the sear housing block.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the information.
On the EBAY site it states that the sear housing does not fit in the 1.0.
 

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Thanks for the information.
On the EBAY site it states that the sear housing does not fit in the 1.0.
I think that's the caveat to make sure you know you're getting a M2.0 SHB.

Some people have had the M2.0 SHB drop right in. Mine needed 5 min of tweaking. Here's the post I put in some other like-minded forum. Hope it helps you out.
==============
I ordered a M2.0 sear housing block and M2.0 trigger to see if I could make the swap. Couldn't find much written about it, so I figured I'd just go ahead and experiment. A quick look at the two shows the biggest (and most important) difference between the two:



This "tab" was preventing the sear housing block from seating in the frame. Applying the theory of "grinding on the cheapest part," I carefully removed the tab. Here it is, tab removed and smoothed, but before the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black.



Here they are lined up.



After trimming, the sear housing block and 2.0 trigger dropped right in. No adjustments needed on anything else.







If you're particularly astute, you'll notice that's a Performance Center sear (and spring and plunger).

Trigger feels great, just like the trigger on my M&P M2.0 Compact.
 
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