Hi, all:
OK, so I'm thinking I might have messed-up one of these pistols. I was determined to get her done, for I had relatives coming from out of state and I wanted to take them to the range for some shootn'. I pulled an all-nighter and ... well ... I shouldn't have. Brains don't function well with sleep deprivation. The problem was that after I had the gun down to 5.25#, I worked on her a bit more - this included removing less than .015" off the top of the sear. Then, when I dry-fired again, she became heavier - back to slightly over 6# ... What the? ... Arrrrgggg!!! I noticed some isolated wear marks on the sear, and assumed (there's that word again!) that my striker/sear mating must not have been "square", or parallel, actually. I figured that one of the two was pitched and therefore was causing the striker to cut into the Sear ... instead of sliding nicely. And so, I kept working "the hump" to get it as square as possible, being careful NOT to go negative (not to follow the natural curve of the lower section, but to retain a slight hump still). I worked it, checked it, and worked it a bit more. Anyway ... althought there might have been some of this "cutting" going on, THAT was not causing the increased pull. The culprit ??? = There was lube in the striker channel and this (as I've learned from this fine forum) can be counter-productive by the fact that lube in the channel can actually create hydrolic resistance. Sooooooo ... I cleaned and dried the channel and the gun was now 4.75# - OK, stop here, I said to myself. The trigger felt really good. I have a second M&P9 that I was GONNA" send for a BURT, to compare my layman's work to the real deal. However, I got impatient and violated the second pistol, too. I decided to be a bit more conservative with this one. Now, here's the issue ...
The second gun has a most positive reset, both audible and tactile. When I first reassemble this gun, before inserting a magazine even, the trigger clicks both ways - when pulled and when released. It looks just like the video clip that's posted here somewhere. The first gun I did has NO SUCH click. I am lost and would greatly appreciate some answers:
1) Just what is causing the 1st click? What is causing the 2nd click? I can hear it and feel it, but I can't see it. I cannot envision just what is happening inside there. If I knew the answer to this
question(s) , I suppose I could figure out the others below. But tell me anyway! ;-)
2) Will the gun with no click still function? (I was hoping to shoot later today - Friday)
3) What step of the Trigger mod. did I (or not?) botch?
4) Can it be saved, or is a new Sear needed?
5) Where can I purchase a gross of sears? (just kidding - I only want four!)
6) (not topic related - at least I don't think so) Can the bent "loop" of the trigger bar (upon which the cam of the sear rides) be spread open or reshaped to trip the sear sooner?
That' it for this post.
Again, thanks so much for your time and sharing.
OK, so I'm thinking I might have messed-up one of these pistols. I was determined to get her done, for I had relatives coming from out of state and I wanted to take them to the range for some shootn'. I pulled an all-nighter and ... well ... I shouldn't have. Brains don't function well with sleep deprivation. The problem was that after I had the gun down to 5.25#, I worked on her a bit more - this included removing less than .015" off the top of the sear. Then, when I dry-fired again, she became heavier - back to slightly over 6# ... What the? ... Arrrrgggg!!! I noticed some isolated wear marks on the sear, and assumed (there's that word again!) that my striker/sear mating must not have been "square", or parallel, actually. I figured that one of the two was pitched and therefore was causing the striker to cut into the Sear ... instead of sliding nicely. And so, I kept working "the hump" to get it as square as possible, being careful NOT to go negative (not to follow the natural curve of the lower section, but to retain a slight hump still). I worked it, checked it, and worked it a bit more. Anyway ... althought there might have been some of this "cutting" going on, THAT was not causing the increased pull. The culprit ??? = There was lube in the striker channel and this (as I've learned from this fine forum) can be counter-productive by the fact that lube in the channel can actually create hydrolic resistance. Sooooooo ... I cleaned and dried the channel and the gun was now 4.75# - OK, stop here, I said to myself. The trigger felt really good. I have a second M&P9 that I was GONNA" send for a BURT, to compare my layman's work to the real deal. However, I got impatient and violated the second pistol, too. I decided to be a bit more conservative with this one. Now, here's the issue ...
The second gun has a most positive reset, both audible and tactile. When I first reassemble this gun, before inserting a magazine even, the trigger clicks both ways - when pulled and when released. It looks just like the video clip that's posted here somewhere. The first gun I did has NO SUCH click. I am lost and would greatly appreciate some answers:
1) Just what is causing the 1st click? What is causing the 2nd click? I can hear it and feel it, but I can't see it. I cannot envision just what is happening inside there. If I knew the answer to this
question(s) , I suppose I could figure out the others below. But tell me anyway! ;-)
2) Will the gun with no click still function? (I was hoping to shoot later today - Friday)
3) What step of the Trigger mod. did I (or not?) botch?
4) Can it be saved, or is a new Sear needed?
5) Where can I purchase a gross of sears? (just kidding - I only want four!)
6) (not topic related - at least I don't think so) Can the bent "loop" of the trigger bar (upon which the cam of the sear rides) be spread open or reshaped to trip the sear sooner?
That' it for this post.
Again, thanks so much for your time and sharing.
