Just bought a Shield 9mm, it’s my first firearm, and I haven’t shot anything in over 15 years. Wanting to go to the range and trying to get ammo. Found a site with several different options and was interested in opinions. Products offered are: Remington Range, Federal Training, Federal American Eagle and Federal Champion. I currently have a box of Hornady Critical Duty for when I get comfortable enough to carry, but looking for something to be able to get used to the gun and practice periodically with. Any help/advice is appreciated
Ammo question from new owner
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For orientation/practice/getting to know your pistol FMJ/training ammo is fine. Best I've bought is the Federal 115 grain FMJ. The Winchester 115 grain FMJ is both dirtier and less accurate than the Federal in my wife's 9MM Shield (haven't gotten around to shooting mine yet.)
For defense ammo? Just have to try different brands/weights and see what your pistol is reliable with and what shoots good in it. Guns really are different, even the same brands/models. My wife's 9MM Shield shoots better groups than either of my 1.0 full sized M&Ps or my 2.0 5" FDE 9MM. People may say small guns won't be accurate, but in this case the small gun is more accurate than 3 other full sized guns by the same company.
For defense ammo? Just have to try different brands/weights and see what your pistol is reliable with and what shoots good in it. Guns really are different, even the same brands/models. My wife's 9MM Shield shoots better groups than either of my 1.0 full sized M&Ps or my 2.0 5" FDE 9MM. People may say small guns won't be accurate, but in this case the small gun is more accurate than 3 other full sized guns by the same company.
Thanks for the info. If I could bother you with another question, any recommendations on cleaning kit and materials (oil, solvents, etc)? Starting from scratch, so any and all info/advice is appreciated. Also, my girlfriend bought herself a Ruger LCPII .380, if you happen to have any thoughts on what might be best for her, it would be also be appreciated. Both of us being new gun owners, we want to do things smart and safely. Thanks in advance.
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You'll find there are many opinions on what to use for cleaning and lubricating. Many have hyped up sales tactics and such. Just make sure whatever you choose, is safe for polymers, plastics and such. You can't go wrong with the basic tried and true things like hoppes and CLP or for many, Mobil 1 oil for lube.
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For regular cleaning after range trips I found Ballistol works very well. An all-in-one Cleaner, Lube, Protectorate (CLP).
Lots of videos on cleaning. I like to keep it simple and minimal lube.
I like Hickok45.
You can watch a number of videos on Youtube and see what you like---
Lots of videos on cleaning. I like to keep it simple and minimal lube.
I like Hickok45.
You can watch a number of videos on Youtube and see what you like---
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Ask any number of firearm owners about firearm cleaning procedures and you will likely get a different answer from each.
There are numerous articles, websites and on-line videos that provide instruction on cleaning a firearm. I suggest you aquatint yourself with these processes and even try a few of them until you find the one that works for you.
As far as cleaning supplies, I found general or universal kits a waste of money. I have since created my own kit stocked with the following.
Cleaning rods - Kleen-Bore’s Saf-T-Clad. These vinyl coated rods help protect the bore from being scratched.
Bronze bore-cleaning brush - Although bore brushes are available in stainless steel, due to their hardness they are not recommended for cleaning as you run the risk of damaging the barrel.
Solvent - I am partial to Hoppe's No. 9. This product has been around for decades and is still an effective cleaner. However, you may find other brands more to your liking.
Mops - For saturating the bore with solvent prior to scrubbing
Jag - I prefer brass as plastic jags can bend in the bore possibly causing damage.
Nylon bristle brush - I find smaller bristle heads better for the tight places.
Patches - Be sure they are the correct size for your caliber firearm
Gun oil - Any good quality gun oil is more than adequate. Again I prefer Hoppe's
Nitrile gloves - Available at pharmacies as well as on-line, Nitrile gloves are resistant to cleaning chemicals. They are great if your skin is sensitive to solvent and gun oil or you just want to keep the smell off your hands.
Pipe Cleaners - Perfect for cleaning those small areas. Use cotton ones as oppose to the nylon normally found at craft stores. Cotton holds solvent better and more of it. They are available online or fine tobacco stores in bundles of fifty for a few dollars.
Cleaning Rags - Old clean t-shirts cut into approximately 10” x 10” squares are ideal. They can also be washed when necessary.
Gun mat - These padded mats protect the work surface from chemicals. The padding also protects the gun of its dropped. Several layers of old newsprint can be used as well.
Compressed air - Canned compressed air is available at most hardware, department or computer stores. It is used to blow out cleaning residue and debris from the nooks and crannies of the firearm.
Eye Protection - Inexpensive shop safety glasses are available at hardware stores and home improvement centers. They are cheap insurance against possible eye injury when using the compressed air.
Toolbox - Keeps all your supplies in one place and makes it convenient to carry to the range. Although there are (expensive) purpose made boxes for gun maintenance, a small inexpensive toolbox from home improvement centers works just as well and costs lot less.
I hope this helps.
Same here for the Hoppe#9 and Mobil 1. Been using the Hoppes#9 since the late 60's. The Mobil for almost 20 years.
I will say, clean your barrel from the chamber towards the muzzle. No reason so push the crud you're cleaning out of the barrel back into the chamber.. Clean the chamber and muzzle and get rid of the crud.
I have, within the last year, started using a cleaner called Bore Tech Eliminator for the copper/jacket residue left in the barrel. Seldom use it, but it sure does get that stuff out of the barrel quick/easy. Have to use a nylon brush for that as it will also eat up your brass bristle brushes.
An old toothbrush is a good cleaning tool to brush out area where it'll fit.
I keep my pistol cleaning stuff in an old (cleaned) coffee container. Plastic, has a snap on lid. Just the right size for a small oil bottle, small bore cleaning bottle, baggy of patches, tooth brush, a baggy of patch tips/bristles/bore mops and a baggy with the oil rag used to wipe excess oil of parts after cleaning and lubing as you put the pistol back together and then to wipe off the slide and sights to put a protective oil layer on the metal.
I will say, clean your barrel from the chamber towards the muzzle. No reason so push the crud you're cleaning out of the barrel back into the chamber.. Clean the chamber and muzzle and get rid of the crud.
I have, within the last year, started using a cleaner called Bore Tech Eliminator for the copper/jacket residue left in the barrel. Seldom use it, but it sure does get that stuff out of the barrel quick/easy. Have to use a nylon brush for that as it will also eat up your brass bristle brushes.
An old toothbrush is a good cleaning tool to brush out area where it'll fit.
I keep my pistol cleaning stuff in an old (cleaned) coffee container. Plastic, has a snap on lid. Just the right size for a small oil bottle, small bore cleaning bottle, baggy of patches, tooth brush, a baggy of patch tips/bristles/bore mops and a baggy with the oil rag used to wipe excess oil of parts after cleaning and lubing as you put the pistol back together and then to wipe off the slide and sights to put a protective oil layer on the metal.
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Others pretty well covered it, but for starters almost any "range ammo" - typically Full Metal Jacket (FMJ) are fine. You are mostly confirming the pistol will function consistently and getting a feel for the trigger, recoil, etc.
Assuming that whatever FMJs you use work flawlessly, the next step would be to determine which defense ammo you plan to use. Read some reviews, watch some videos, then buy a box of at least one brand. Most common 9mm rounds are going to be 115gr, but many times a heavier bullet like a 124gr will do better. After you make a final decision, you need to run at least 50 or more rounds of the ammo through the pistol without a hiccup. If you can't, you need to try a different brand. If you can't get anything to function 100% you need to send it to the manufacturer or qualified Gunsmith. A defense weapon needs to function flawlessly.
Thankfully most M&Ps will, but you need to confirm.
For lubes, I use 3 types. First is a cleaner. I like Hornady One-Shot. It cleans, but also lubes and offers excellent corrosion protection.
For oil, I use LP - Lube Protect.
For any sliding areas, like the slide rails and slide/hammer contact, I like grease instead of oil. I use a very light synthetic grease called Super Lube. It doesn't take much, just a thin coating. Grease stays put better, and doesn't collect any more gunk than oil.
Assuming that whatever FMJs you use work flawlessly, the next step would be to determine which defense ammo you plan to use. Read some reviews, watch some videos, then buy a box of at least one brand. Most common 9mm rounds are going to be 115gr, but many times a heavier bullet like a 124gr will do better. After you make a final decision, you need to run at least 50 or more rounds of the ammo through the pistol without a hiccup. If you can't, you need to try a different brand. If you can't get anything to function 100% you need to send it to the manufacturer or qualified Gunsmith. A defense weapon needs to function flawlessly.
Thankfully most M&Ps will, but you need to confirm.
For lubes, I use 3 types. First is a cleaner. I like Hornady One-Shot. It cleans, but also lubes and offers excellent corrosion protection.
For oil, I use LP - Lube Protect.
For any sliding areas, like the slide rails and slide/hammer contact, I like grease instead of oil. I use a very light synthetic grease called Super Lube. It doesn't take much, just a thin coating. Grease stays put better, and doesn't collect any more gunk than oil.
There's a USCCA Concealed Carry Fundamentals training class being held this Saturday 2/20, 12-5 by Stephen LaSpina.
Being held in Scranton at the Reformed Baptist Church, 231 Adams Ave, Scranton.
Contact info: [email protected]
Thanks for that info. Unfortunately, working this weekend.
If you are just trying to get familiar with the weapon at the range I would go as cheap as possible. 115gr is still pretty easy to get but, as with all ammo, it has become outrageously expensive. Save the high quality stuff for when you carry or defend the castle.
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I know right now ammo is expensive and hard to come by. But I try to buy 5,6,7 different brands. The one that shoots best in your gun (accuracy) is your carry ammo. If your just trying to break the gun in or plinking at cans buy the cheapest. Sometimes you get lucky and the cheapest also shoots the most accurate!!!
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The indoor range I use will offer a box of 50 fmj rounds for use in the range. They use a discounted price, $13.00, and only will sell one box. All other ammo I get is online. I use a search engine and research many vendors. Right now the going price is $1 per round. My suggestion would be to go inquire with the range staff as far as training in using the range, proper procedures, etc. The range safety officers take their job extremely seriously. It is better to be prepared than suffer the pain of being asked to leave. I picked up a 9mm cleaning kit from WalMart along with additional cleaning swipes. Lubrication and cleaning fluids are from Amsoil. Excellent products. When cleaning follow the manufactures instructions. You tube is another source of info, but, the presenters are opinionated as a rule. Use common sense. Enjoy your time with wife and protection equipment.
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