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There is no such thing as a dry gun, Glock included. a NORMAL amount of oil/lube is all it takes. I prefer Ballistol as it leave the metal with a slicker working surface than oil. I'm not a fan of grease for handguns. Only thing I use grease on is my AK.
 

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I've always lubed as the manual suggested.... except one time early on with my wifes 9c... I lubed the heck out of it.... I'll just say, after that debacle... I will never lube any other way but by the book!!!
 
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I only lube after cleaning. I clean after every range session and if I get my carry pistol particularly wet/dirty outside while working.
 

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FWIW, I watched a video yesterday about lubing. What they emphasized was, on the slide ramps (on the frame) to make sure to get oil up underneath the ramps, as well as on top.. They also said to not worry about lubing the grooves in the slide or the striker. Also, that little peephole at the underside of the slide, right at the end of the barrel? Yeah, that's not an oiling port, that's a drain hole, so don't put oil in there, it negates the design. But what it seemed they emphasized the most is the cleaning solvents, no ammoniated or strong alkaline products (glass cleaner, Ajax, comet, bar keeper's friend, zud, all-purpose cleaners, oven cleaners, toilet bowl cleaner, dishwasher cleaner, laundry detergent, carpet cleaner, drain cleaner, floor cleaners, etc) and no submerging into a solvent or ultrasonic cleaning. ONLY specified gun cleaners, and then making sure to get all of that off. YMMV
 

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I oil and use grease. Brands vary as to what I find available. I lube more than the factory calls for, and don't mind wiping off a tad bit that has leaked out...which is why I use grease now. Oil will run down hill - gravity. If you are going into a sand filled environment - knowingly ahead of time - just slightly lube with drops of oil. For every day use, like your night stand pistol, concealed carry gun - put a little grease on the rails. The grease will stay put, and it doesn't take a lot. Never do I expect oil to remain in a pistol, at least at the places I oiled it at lol. Oil runs and grease does not. I see nothing that changes that fact. Grease is great for the hidden AR being used for just a home defense role too. Will it gum up if you fire a thousand rounds and have grease in it - well yeah lol - but it's a home defense weapon that will probably fire less than 10 rounds if needed. Better than a weapon heavily oiled and ran dry because the oil seeped out or ran to one end of the weapon.
 

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If you get oil spray on your eye pro when you fire your auto loader, you may have used too much. What lube you use comes down to experience and personal preference. As far as the amount and where to apply it, the owner's manual is your friend.
 

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Thanks for the awesome replies!

I think with what I'm using (breakthrough pro) literally the smallest drop it can create, 1 on each spot in the manual, does the trick. First time i tried to put a little extra to cover the full rail, barrel, and it was dripping.

I did notice that in the bedstand safe - with more lube it'll run to 1 side - but even after a full month on its side, it shot 130 rds like a dream.
 

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"I oil and use grease. ... Will it gum up...- but it's a home defense weapon that will probably fire less than 10 rounds if needed. Better than a weapon heavily oiled and ran dry because the oil seeped out or ran to one end of the weapon."
Grease will dry out and become crud, even in storage. IMO not a darn thing wrong with a "dry gun". Guns are designed to be dry. They're not a car engine -high speed combustion and constantly moving, hot high speed parts, rubbing against each other. The ONLY guns that might need a lttile oil are the pros who run hundreds of rounds every day at a high rate of speed, but even then, cleaning the gun is FAR better for it than oil and grease. No need for lube. In fact, NEVER oil the striker, firing pin, chamber or trigger assy, so what does that leave? Most folks (wrongly) reason is that parts that rub together need oil, but that's just not true. Gun parts are hardened and coated and designed to rub together. REALLY, all oil does is attract dust and dirt and crud and that and carbon (and copper) build up are the REAL enemies of guns. Grease does it more and faster. Nope, not really necesssary. A good thorough cleaning (mineral spirits or paint thinner or denatured alcohol is fine, on metal. Soap and water on plastic) (of ALL parts) is FAR more necessary.
I polish all mating parts (more like lapping mating parts together), then put ONE drop of oil (Mineral oil is fine) on, smear it along the surfaces, then wipe it off (plenty stays there). IMO, you should clean your gun as often as you clean your body. YMMV
 

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Light CLP on M&P when I had it, same on Glocks I use now.

Only difference, i did oil Smith extractor. Glock says run it dry.


My AR is a different story. Run wet, never clean . . . . CCHGN above is wrong about guns are designed to run dry. Try running AR dry. AR will run wet without cleaning. Not dry.
 

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What you do is find an empty sirachi bottle and mix 30% of walmarts red grease with 70% synthetic oil 10-30w of your choice. No more paying for the military industrial complex's CLP.
 

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Everybody has a different cleaning & lubrication regiment or idea of what they want/need..
I won't even waste the time to tell you my regiment..
When I carry IWB or Appendix I find my pistols soaked with sweat & afterwards wipe them down & oil them up
Of course after each range session they get cleaned & lubricated..
About 20+ years ago I had just about every lube manufacturer send me FREE bottles of lube & have a stash of many many types of CLPs Oils Greases etc. I have a lifetime supply of them..
Those little bottles go a long long way..
 

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I use Slide Glide grease and at lot more than the 7 points in the manual.
I also use a thin coating Slide Glide grease (the thinner, "low temperature" version) on the frame and slide rails and barrel lug surfaces. Otherwise I oil the moving parts lightly with CLP.
 

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Theres a video on youtube with military arms channel running the m&p9 m2.0 through a water, sand, dirt mudd gauntlet with surprising results. I dont have have a link but the short story is out the box 2.0s are allergic to water and are oil dependent. Sample set of 1.
 
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