Build it yourself AR15 ?
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307 Posts
I've done a grand total of......one, so I'm not at all an authority but...
Use quality, preferably mil-spec parts and the only real difficult part is the barrel installation, everything else is either pinned or screwed. Okay, there's the staking of the screws on the bolt carrier, but you can buy one of those fully assembled, too.
Use quality, preferably mil-spec parts and the only real difficult part is the barrel installation, everything else is either pinned or screwed. Okay, there's the staking of the screws on the bolt carrier, but you can buy one of those fully assembled, too.
Ahh, the dark side is strong. You have been infected. Now go here and be ravaged by the disease.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/board.html?b=3
http://www.ar15.com/forums/board.html?b=3
chuckles said:
Ive been looking around there for about two days now. My wife says that the laptop and I are joined at the hip. I use to own a Colt AR15 A2 HBar pre ban but I wanted a Harley more. Now I think that its time for another one.
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9,573 Posts
I've built 3 from kits, in fact I've never owned a factory made AR. Anyone who has decent mechanical skills can build an AR, it isn't difficult.
Here's a primer on assembling your own: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&...=4&t=226782
Most of the assembly can be done with simple hand tools you already have, I do recommend you get roll pin punches to install the two roll pins without buggering up your finish on your lower receiver.
To assemble the lower kit the only special tools you need are the roll pin punches from Brownell's, the smaller one for the bolt catch pin and the larger for the trigger guard pin.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...OLL+PIN+PUNCHES
3/32 is #3 Roll pin punch (for bolt release pin)
item #230-100-003
#3 Roll Pin Punch $3.75
1/8 is #4 Roll pin punch (for trigger guard pin)
item #230-100-004
#4 Roll Pin Punch $3.83
Small item shipping $3.70
total delivered $11.28
prices current August 2006
If you get a kit that uses a collapsible stock, there is a special wrench you need to tighten the nut on the stock, they aren't expensive, about $10-$15.
One really nice thing about assembling your own, there's no mystery to the fire control system, you put it together and know exactly how you did it!
Here's mine, all built from kits:
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Here's a couple of companies that I have used and recommend:
http://www.del-ton.com/
http://jtdistributing.com/index.html
Here's a primer on assembling your own: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&...=4&t=226782
Most of the assembly can be done with simple hand tools you already have, I do recommend you get roll pin punches to install the two roll pins without buggering up your finish on your lower receiver.
To assemble the lower kit the only special tools you need are the roll pin punches from Brownell's, the smaller one for the bolt catch pin and the larger for the trigger guard pin.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...OLL+PIN+PUNCHES
3/32 is #3 Roll pin punch (for bolt release pin)
item #230-100-003
#3 Roll Pin Punch $3.75
1/8 is #4 Roll pin punch (for trigger guard pin)
item #230-100-004
#4 Roll Pin Punch $3.83
Small item shipping $3.70
total delivered $11.28
prices current August 2006
If you get a kit that uses a collapsible stock, there is a special wrench you need to tighten the nut on the stock, they aren't expensive, about $10-$15.
One really nice thing about assembling your own, there's no mystery to the fire control system, you put it together and know exactly how you did it!
Here's mine, all built from kits:
Here's a couple of companies that I have used and recommend:
http://www.del-ton.com/
http://jtdistributing.com/index.html
Ive read alot about del-ton and they are going to be at a show this weekend, its only about 4hr away. I was at a show last weekend and they were there but I didnt get the bug untill mid week. The good thing is that they are located only 2 1/2 Hr. from my home and 30 min from my grandmothers.
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9,573 Posts
Del-Ton are good people to do business with, I've bought a kit as well as parts to rebuild one of mine from them. The AR on the top left of the photo started out as a standard 20" A2 kit with a carry handle, it was the first one I built, and I really didn't know what to do, December of last year I decided to rebuild it as a flat top for hunting, so I ordered a flat top upper receiver from Del-Ton, got it in, took the A2 upper all apart and switched receivers from a carry handle to a flat top, I'm very pleased with the results.
My FFL was talking to me about all the problems I could run into getting it to fit all together. How true is this? Im going to start out with a complete upper. Are there upper and lowers that fit better together? Also is it better to go with a pre or post ban setup?
Joined
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9,573 Posts
First thing, your FFL is thinking about his pocketbook and not giving you good information, the only time you run into big time fit problems can be when you include Colt components, everybody elses components and parts are pretty standard. Normally there aren't any fitment problems, sometimes the upper and lower are a bit too tight, but some examination can reveal where the problem is so you can fit the parts together.
To give you a "for instance", I've built 3 from kits, none of the 3 had any real fit problems, the first one was pretty tight between the upper and lower, but you could put them together, you just had to use a little pressure, when I was modifying that first AR (the one that was already tight), I went to put the new upper on the original receiver, it wouldn't go together, the rear lug wouldn't fit into the recess in that receiver, I pulled out one of my other AR's and tried the new upper on it and it fit fine. I'm comparing the receiver that fits with the one that doesn't, the first lower receiver was a Rock River, the second one a Stag Arms, now CMT makes both receivers, but the Stag has a relief cut in the slot where the rear lug on the upper receiver fits, the Rock River didn't, some additional looking confirmed that this was the case, so I took a Dremel and opened that slot up a bit, and it fit fine. What was the difference between the 2 different brand lowers that had both been made by CMT? Apparently Rock River has a slightly different spec for that area, Stag had observed that area was a potential tight spot and made theirs a bit bigger to eliminate the potential problem.
I do want to emphasize that this is unusual, none of the others had any fit problems at all.
If I was going to recommend one over the other, the stripped lower from Stag Arms fits better out of the box, I think Rock River orders their receivers a little tighter, they are thinking about a tighter fit between the upper and lower, and rely on their assembly people to adjust them for fit. I might add that upper to lower receiver fit on an AR has NOTHING to do with accuracy.
To give you a "for instance", I've built 3 from kits, none of the 3 had any real fit problems, the first one was pretty tight between the upper and lower, but you could put them together, you just had to use a little pressure, when I was modifying that first AR (the one that was already tight), I went to put the new upper on the original receiver, it wouldn't go together, the rear lug wouldn't fit into the recess in that receiver, I pulled out one of my other AR's and tried the new upper on it and it fit fine. I'm comparing the receiver that fits with the one that doesn't, the first lower receiver was a Rock River, the second one a Stag Arms, now CMT makes both receivers, but the Stag has a relief cut in the slot where the rear lug on the upper receiver fits, the Rock River didn't, some additional looking confirmed that this was the case, so I took a Dremel and opened that slot up a bit, and it fit fine. What was the difference between the 2 different brand lowers that had both been made by CMT? Apparently Rock River has a slightly different spec for that area, Stag had observed that area was a potential tight spot and made theirs a bit bigger to eliminate the potential problem.
I do want to emphasize that this is unusual, none of the others had any fit problems at all.
If I was going to recommend one over the other, the stripped lower from Stag Arms fits better out of the box, I think Rock River orders their receivers a little tighter, they are thinking about a tighter fit between the upper and lower, and rely on their assembly people to adjust them for fit. I might add that upper to lower receiver fit on an AR has NOTHING to do with accuracy.
my wife and i were on the way out of town today and stopped by another gun store for something and i asked about them carrying any lowers... they stated that they had DPMS lower for around $150. This store didnt seem to have any problems with carrying the lowers for a build. While we were there she fell in love with a CAR 15 so it looks like i will be building 2.. one 20" standard A2 and one 16" CAR A2.
we will let you know how things go. we are going to Charlotte tomorrow where Del-Ton is going to be at the show.
we will let you know how things go. we are going to Charlotte tomorrow where Del-Ton is going to be at the show.
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2,000 Posts
I like to use either CMT/Stag or RRA lowers. The RRA's are a bit tighter tolerance.
You should be able to get the Stag for around 100 bucks, RRA for 125 ish. The only difficult part is headspacing, but if you buy a complete upper it will already be done! Have fun and think about a 9mm AR next
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You should be able to get the Stag for around 100 bucks, RRA for 125 ish. The only difficult part is headspacing, but if you buy a complete upper it will already be done! Have fun and think about a 9mm AR next
Kovernm said:
Try this link http://www.del-ton.com/AR_15_Lower_Receivers_DPMS_s/43.htm
its the second pic down.
And this link is what is not included with a stripped lower. http://www.del-ton.com/AR_15_Lower_Parts_Kit_p/lp1045.htm
This link showes how to put one together also there is a video on how to do it. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&...=4&t=226782
I just put a lower together in about an hour. DEL-TON had a sale on Friday (10% off) so I went to a gun show that they were at today and tried to get the 10% and one lady said no it was internet sales only but when I went to pay I asked the other lady and she didnt have a problem with it.
So DPMS stripped lower $100.00, lower parts kit $50.00, A2 buttstock $60.00
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649 Posts
Building parts guns for "frankenguns" as they are referred to can be a lot of fun and also a lot of pain. I see customers on line and that come into our store that have built the biggest pieces of crap.
The key to building a quality weapon from parts is make sure your getting quality parts. If you do that, everything should go together well. Remember to use the proper torque settings and loctite where needed.
C4
The key to building a quality weapon from parts is make sure your getting quality parts. If you do that, everything should go together well. Remember to use the proper torque settings and loctite where needed.
C4
C4iGrant said:
For building an upper that works well, you need ot know what you are doing to some extent. Mostly so you can troubleshoot any issues properly rather than going "uhh.. why doesn't this work." this can be an issues even with good parts. You also need to torque things right and be able to clean up the bits that might be less than perfect.
This is a large portion of what you are paying for with a factory assembled rifle.
If you are doing it to save money. Don't. If you are doing it to save money and learn something, then do.
Also chiming back in to give a +1 on del-ton.
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