Yes and you might as well take out that goofy sear realease while your at it. After you take both out, you simply have to pull the trigger to get the slide to come the rest of the way off. Lock slide to rear, flip take down lever downward, release slide stop, pull slide forward at same time you pull trigger. Slide comes right off. Even easier than a Glock.
Please don't remove the sear disconector, it is there for a reason. Taking down by pulling the trigger puts a lot of excess stress on the striker in a direction it is not designed to take that much force.
Dan, could you explain that a little. I am having a hard time envisioning how anything is under undue stress. I lock the slide to the rear, flip the takedown lever down, gently lower the slide, then pull the trigger and the slide comes right off. It appears to me that at that point the sear is the only thing holding the slide on. I could see how pressing the trigger and then dropping the slide abruptly under full recoil spring pressure might screw up something, but otherwise I don't see a problem.
I removed mine a long time ago and have not experienced any problems. I do not like having to use a tool to take down the gun or stick my finger way down in its gullet with the slide back, thus taking a chance on getting an M&P version of the M1 thumb. It was also my understanding that this device was put in the gun because S&W did not like the liability of requiring the trigger to be pulled in order to take the gun down. A number of NDs on Glock happened over the years, or so I am told, because of this. Any enlightenment you can provide would genuinely be appreciated.
You are right when takeing the pistol down this way the only thing holding the slide on the pistol is the sear on the striker. What happens is the slide is allowed to move about 1/4 in further forward than where the slide usually rests this puts alot more pressure on the striker. Let alone if someone slipped and let the slide fly forward this would break a striker pretty quick. the slides forward momentum is meant to stop on the take down lever not the striker. A quater in may not sound like much but when you feel the difference in trigger pull (much heavier) and you realize the striker is also bottoming out it travel against the striker cover you can see how the striker is getting a good bit more pressure in a direction it isn't used to.
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