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Discussion Starter #1
My Hyundai Accent won't start, turns over, but won't start. So I need some opinions on what you guys think is wrong...



Here is the data



Compression test is fine, cylinders 1 and 4 were @ 210 psig, and 2 and 3 were at 215

We tried to get spark off of a screwdriver from a spark plug wire (spark plug side, of course), but no spark

Car was sitting in some relatively deep water about 2 weeks ago, and it died a week ago. It did get 4 to 6" of water on the inside, but not enough (I think) to reach the computer

Car stopped working during idle, parked, and hasn't started since



Any ideas? Thanks for reading this, and your input.



ETA: Battery tested good @ 13V and the computer has no codes listed or problems shown (at least not using the Hyundai chip/communication through the Snap-On diagnostic, I have to use General to read the computer, but it has always been that way). No funny noises or leaking oil.
 

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You probably have a corroded relay contact or similar problem. Was the fuse/relay box under water?



Get a Chilton book and track through the ignition wiring with a voltmeter. Clean connections and replace relay's till it starts.



Good luck



:twisted:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TOF said:
You probably have a corroded relay contact or similar problem. Was the fuse/relay box under water?



Get a Chilton book and track through the ignition wiring with a voltmeter. Clean connections and replace relay's till it starts.



Good luck



:twisted:


Forgot to mention that i've done that... all checked out. Thanks for the input.



I think the computer is shot, personally... kinda sucks to put down $400 on a $1000 car -.-
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Quasi Moto said:
You seem pretty sure it is a spark issue but I would double check fuel before replacing a computer. Just to be safe anyway.


No spark pulse is coming from the coils... they're getting nothing.



When I took out the spark plugs this morning to do the compression test, there was no smell of unburnt gas. I checked the injectors after I read your pulse, and they're not getting any power.
 

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Have you checked you cam positioning sensor or crank positioning sensor...either one of these will cause these symptoms...there are more things it could be but start with getting a scanner ( you can borrow one at places like o'reillys or such) See exactly what is not putting out a signal. Oreillys can also reprogram your comp for like 125.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
koumiss45 said:
Have you checked you cam positioning sensor or crank positioning sensor...either one of these will cause these symptoms...there are more things it could be but start with getting a scanner ( you can borrow one at places like o'reillys or such) See exactly what is not putting out a signal. Oreillys can also reprogram your comp for like 125.


Yea, they can flash it...



I haven't checked either of the positioning sensors, but the crank sensor is in a weird place near the very bottom of the block, and so it is very prone to water damage... so that is what i'm kinda "feeling" is the problem, but i'm going to try and listen to see if the fuel pump will turn on tonight. If it does turn on, its the crank sensor. If it doesn't... I might need my ecu flashed or get it replaced because of possible frying due to water.
 

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car probs

It's made in korea..need i say more, my wife had a hyundai excel when they first appeared 20 years ago, i donated it to charity 2yrs. later, if your'e gonna buy foreign, buy a toyota. just my.2$
 

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deleted - Misread the original post
 

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Discussion Starter #12
koumiss45 said:
Just another thought, what is your fuel pressure at the rail like?


Injectors weren't getting any kind of power and not turning on... so i'm going to try and test the resistance on the crankshaft positioning sensor when I get a chance sometime Friday probably... ETA: fuel pressure wouldn't matter to much if it isn't getting spark (the coils weren't getting power during start-up, which says 2 things to me: crankshaft positioning sensor or the ecu... if the resistance test is within spec (.4 to .6 kohms) then it is the ecu... we'll find out then. HOWEVER, SUPPOSIDLY in Hyundais, the word is that if the check engine light is on, then that means the computer is functioning properly, and i'm getting a check engine light... that makes no sense to me, but it has to do with the fact that the computer is functioning enough to do a self-diagnosis and able to turn on the check engine light



As a side note, Hyundai has been good to me... besides the fact that when I bought it, a cam bearing cap was loose on it and I drove it for about 2000 miles that way before the loud metal clanking noise finally didn't go away (sometimes it would happen and sometimes not... sometimes it would be loud, sometimes it wouldn't be) and all they did was retighten it. At the time, I was working at a cylinder head porting shop in Houston and I almost passed out when they said they wouldn't replace anything. Yea, so who knows what kind of metal shavings went through that motor.
 
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