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Discussion Starter #1
Looking over a batch of brass from my first day out with the M&P, I noticed a disturbing trend. Nearly every case has a gouge in it 4mm down from the mouth. It's deep enough that I'm uncertain of it reloading safely, as it certainly can be felt with a fingernail. I checked my slide and found a worn spot on the back edge of the port above the extractor, right where it rounds over. It's extremely sharp, but at that point of the slide, is not supportive of the breech.



Has anyone had this situation with their reloads? AND

Has anyone had their port rounded over to fix that sharp edge? AND...

How much does that cost?



BTW, 40 cal.
 

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now that you mention it, I have noticed that same dent, Never paid attn, reloaded the brass 5+ times with no problems.



Never looked for a solution.
 

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hard to say without pics. I have reloaded dinged up brass. if the casemouth is nice something seating a jacketed bullet fixes things after sizing.



dont recall seeing a guide to brass damage pitch or reload. for target brass have shot about anything with light loads. premium loads only get the best. outside of casemouth,over expansion,primer pocket,flash hole. sometimes a wood dowel and a hammer can help



basicly grade my brass in 3 manners. pitched in the recycle pan,cheap plinking load(range pickup brass or more than once fired) and finally premium match or defense loads(usually use once fired brass or nickel of known origin).
 

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Dings pretty much get ironed out in the reloading process, the expander takes care of the inside, and the taper crimp takes care of the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
These aren't dents. My Sigma dents cases. This is a gouge with a sharp edge. Feel the rounded edge to the right rear of the ejector port, the one from the top of the slide, rounding over to the side. That's pretty sharp on my 40, and that's where my cases are hitting on extraction. I'll try to get some picts up.
 

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During my first range session with my new M&P40 (serial #MBP <500, "Rev. M") I fired 250 rounds of factory ammo, including cheap Win 165gr fmj along several brands and weights of jhps. None of the recovered cases were seriously dinged, a couple had minor "dents". Some did look a little more "bulged" than the brass from my KKM barreled Glock. I cleaned and re-loaded all 250 and had maybe 3 that would not fit the case gauge and maybe 4 or 5 more that were almost no-go. I have customized my Dillon re-size die a little, but still am pretty happy with the spent cases. So no, no big dings or dents. And yeah, I'd go ahead and "break" that top edge a little IF you opt not to sent it back to S&W. If my new M&P hiccups at all, it's going back and will (hopefully!) get fully upgraded to "Rev. N"...or P or whatever it may be up to by then.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Would they take it under warranty for a service like that? I'm sure almost any good smith could do the job, but if I wouldn't have to pay, then I'd rather go that way.
 

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Give them a call and discuss it with them. Are you firing factory ammo? Does it happen with all brands? How's the extractor look? Maybe it's something to do with the ejector? When in the serial numbers/Revisions evolution was your pistol produced? See what I mean, there's lots of variables and you just have to sort of work through a process of elimination. Wait to see if more people post replies saying yeah, their brass gets beat up bad or not. Note that Jester says that he has re-loaded his M&P (40?) fired brass numerous times with no problems. Although, there again, there's many variables involved with each person's personal re-loading process and the load itself that he/she produces. There's a lot of difference between a load with a pf of 125 vs one that's "making major", between a heavy bullet on a big charge of fast powder vs a light bullet over a small charge of slow powder, etc, etc. Good luck with this. And glad to hear you re-load for your .40. What kind of load do you run? Although, this is somewhat off the subject, maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm using fairly light loads for practice. I'll burn a couple of boxes of 180 factory so I have a constant flow of fresh brass. I'm reloading 155's now.

Rainier 155gr Truncated TMJ, 5.6 gr Unique on a CCI 500 primer. I've got a bunch of Oregon Trail 155 RNSWC's sittin in boxes waiting for an outside day. I load them on the same powder charge. It works out kind of nice and keeps the costs down. About 11 cents versus 22, but that's because of those cursed shipping charges. I'm not overly concerned with a side case crack. I've had one in my Sigma from a reloaded round (went the lowest pressure I could find, no case bulge afterwards). It just irks me that this thing is resulting in lowered life expectancy on these cases. It's definitely the work of the slide. The extractor pulls them back and they get slammed against the sharp edge I mentioned, causing a gouge. I've used CCI and Remington in it so far, and all of the cases have the marks, some to a lesser degree than others. The Remingtons seem to have a lower proportion. Probably due to tougher brass.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE!!!

I spent about 275 rounds on the range last week. All of them reloads. Man!!!, I really love this M&P. I'm still a novice shooter, but when I make sure to calm down, practice what I've learned, and keep consistant, even I can pull better groupings. I need to have my eye-glass prescription changed and that'll probably help more.



Anyway, I inspected some most of the brass, as it was indoors and was gathering up some extra brass from others (CCW training range, lotsa 40 cal). Most of my brass had indentations, but none of them had marks as bad as the ones on the factory brass. All of the ones with that mark from the first batch reloaded just fine and showed no signs of impending failure. Either the cases on my reloads are hitting that spot on the slide softer, or maybe it's worn enough to not cause the damage. Either way, I'm happy.
 
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