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That spiral would make mister bond proud... I like the bore snakes myself but your results look good.
 

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I've been using Chore Boy myself for years.

Note to the newbies; be sure you use an all copper Chore Boy, as there're a lot of other products out there that are copper plated steel.
 

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Back when I was shooting PPC competitively I used Star 38 cal wadcutter bullets, those bullets were swaged rather than cast, the swaged bullets are very soft lead, and leave behind a tremendous amount of leading in the barrels and forward part of the cylinders. I had been using the Lewis Lead Remover for many years, it was the only way I knew to remove leading, scrubbing with a bore brush just doesn't work. The Lewis Lead Remover worked, it was slow and labor intensive, but it did work. At one point I bought a video on the care and cleaning of the 1911 by Bill Wilson of Wilson Custom, in that video he demonstrated the Chore Boy method, I tried it, WOW! The difference was night and day, the Chore Boy method really worked! FAR faster, FAR cheaper and FAR more effective that the Lewis Lead Remover, I can't emphasize how much better that method works.

To give you some idea, the front end of the cylinders would be completely covered with a thick coating of lead at the end of a match, it was very easy to see the gray lead instead of the black coloring you should be seeing. With the Lewis Lead Remover you could easily spend an hour working on removing the lead from the cylinder, and at the end of that time you might only have 50 % of it removed, with the Chore Boy method that same area, with the 6 chambers would be completely deleaded in about 10 minutes.

The hard cast bullets we use these days are less prone to leading, but if I have any to remove, the Chore Boy comes out, an ordinary pair of scissors easily cuts a patch out of the copper, wrap it around a bronze bore brush and go to it!

Hopefully the clerks will believe that you aren't buying it to use in a crack pipe, since that is a common use for that product!
 

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Chore boy method

Im going to Miejers to pick up a couple of Chore Boys. But then I guess I'llhave to stop by the range to purposely dirty up my barrel so I can go home and try it out. OH THE THINGS WE MUST DO TO TRY OUT SOMETHING NEW!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
From what Ive read this method has been around for quite some time, but I just recently learned of it!

Since I have been lost for so long, I figured thousands others would be clueless the same, so I figured I would make pictures and post it up!

No, I didnt discover it... I didnt invent it.. but I did find it so incredible that I *had* to pass it on!

What lead I did have came from shooting coated bullets, it was minor.. but I didnt want ANY lead in my barrel... I didnt trust what I had read fully but I ordered some anyway and gave it a try. Impressed is an understatement.

EB
 

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A snug fitting bore mop works better than a brush. Chore Boy can be found a Walgreens or other drug stores in the kitchen cleaning section.

If you can't find Chore Boy, then bronze wool also works well. I've seen it at Ace hardware as well as the big box hardware stores.

This is all you need and 45 seconds of brushing max.

 

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You can cut that copper Chore Boy with a pair of scissors, I'll just cut a patch of the Chore Boy, about the same size as a cloth cleaning patch and wrap it around a bronze brush, I'm sure you could do the same thing with a bore mop as well, all its doing his holding the copper patch you made.
 

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The problem with the brush is that the strands work their way in between the bristles and then you need more to fill up the gaps. Been there, done that. The tight fitting mop has no gaps so the scraping action is simply the bronze/copper strands against the soft lead and hard steel of the barrel. The strands win against the lead and lose against the steel.

If you want to keep the mop from getting too black, it washes out easily with soap and water or you can give the bore a swipe with a patch cleaned in solvent to get the soot out first.
 
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