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What are some good products to get? And can a cleaner that has lubrication be used solely or is it best to have oil and cleaner be two different things.

My instructor was all about CLP. I saw several options. I'm trying to be resourceful and buy my stuff in Walmart to save some money. They had CLP in a can. Then other stuff was like Hoppes Gun Medic.

So just looking for some suggestions on stuff to use. Got myself a boresnake and I think just need some cleaning patches and maybe a barrel brush? Any thing else I need for my cleaning/maintenance kit?
 

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I've used Break Free CLP for about 25 years. "The military has used it for years so it can't be all that bad", was my thinking when I first used it.
I've received samples of other stuff at gun classes and shows and noticed that Slip 2000 did good as a lube and I've also used their EWG when grease was needed.

This topic is a Ford vs Chevy type thing, ask 3 people the question and get 3 different answers.
 

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As mentioned above, there'll be plenty of different answers for many different reasons...all good usually. For my part, I just say that any solvent and degreaser for firearms is plenty. I use CLP to clean, gun scrubber to degrease everything, then I carefully and minimally apply white lithium grease to every metal surface that rubs another metal surface. I use the lithium grease moreso in my AR/AK rifles because they run hotter and I don't want oil burning off. On handguns I use lithium grease too but in my 1911s i'll still use oil.

Given that pretty much any modern firearm of good repute can run dry for hundreds of rounds (M&Ps too I assume), it's of little consequence what's used for lubricants....heck, just use coconut oil and tell your friends its expensive frog lube and it's guaranteed to make your gun shoot tighter groups and your street cred go through the roof.:laughing:
 

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I've used a lot of CLP and its good, but lately I have really gotten into Ballistol for cleaning, I still use CLP or Mobil 1 as a lube on the wear points. So for me, Ballistol to clean, and then a separate lube oil of your choice.
 
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I’ve been using Eezox for the last 30 years or so for everything.

Even living on the coast in SW Florida, I have no corrosion/rust problems, and all my firearms are extremely reliable (as in 1500 round count training courses reliable). My range pistol lives in the range bag, and gets cleaned 2-3 times a year, yet is still 100% reliable.

https://www.eezox.com
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Any suggestions on tools I need. I saw a Hoppes kit that came with lube and oil, patches and barrel brushes, a case and cleaning mat. Was around $34.
 

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I used to use PREPARATION H, butt my sear got puckered out! :stuart:

Seriously, I use WM brake cleaner in the barrel, a 50/50 mixture of Mercon V and Kerosene, GRIZZLY GREASE, or Hoppes 9, on the rest of the parts.
Lubrication; M1, 3 IN 1 Oil, LUCAS Red MOLY grease, Ballistol, and Hoppes Oil.
I have a few nice gun cleaning kits I have acquired over the years. All you really need to clean a pistol is a $7-$10 Hoppes Gun Cleaning kit and a variety pack of gun cleaning patches. Splurge and buy a silicone gun cloth. Also, look on EBAY for low priced items, such as Bore Snakes.
IMO, all of those "BOUTIQUE FOO-FOO" cleaners and lubes will only make your wallet lighter. :yes
 

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I've done a fair amount of research on this subject and I've learned to keep it lsimple. For basic cleaning after a shooting session, a CLP will serve your needs. What I currently use: Solvent , Hoppes #9 Bore Solvent, not the synthetic blend, and Mineral Spirits. I use the low odor mineral spirits. Lubricant: Balistol and Mineral Oil. Balistol is nothing special. It works thought and I get more for my money. Grease, I use Shooters Choice or equivalent. Degreaser, Mineral Spirits or Simple Green.

Your milage may vary. Good luck with your research.
 

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Shooters are kinda like golfers. Whenever the latest & greatest hits the market, we've got to have it. I'll admit to being as guilty as the next man. My shelf's crowded with various cleaners & lube. Don't know why, I keep going back to Hoppe's #9 & Rem Oil.
 
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Shooters are kinda like golfers. Whenever the latest & greatest hits the market, we've got to have it. I'll admit to being as guilty as the next man. My shelf's crowded with various cleaners & lube. Don't know why, I keep going back to Hoppe's #9 & Rem Oil.


Hoppe’s #9 and Hoppe’s gun oil for as long as I been using gun cleaners.
Recently started using the Corrosion X as oil/lube but still clean with good ol #9.

Only tried the CX product because I was given a sample and liked it.

Never been one to hop on the latest and greatest band wagon for everything.


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Shooters are kinda like golfers. Whenever the latest & greatest hits the market, we've got to have it. I'll admit to being as guilty as the next man. My shelf's crowded with various cleaners & lube. Don't know why, I keep going back to Hoppe's #9 & Rem Oil.
Not always. :laughing:

I’ve been using Eezox since the late ‘80’s.
 

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There is no one-product-fits-all for me and my babies

Bore Cleaners: Hoppes, JB, Bore Tech
CLPs: Hornady One-Shot, Ballistol
Oils: Slip 2000, Kroil, Hoppes
Grease: EWP
 

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Bore cleaners I recommend.

Rand bore and bolt
Hoppes 9

All purpose cleaners I recommend
Rand clp
Ballistol
Lps 1

Greases I recommend
Super tech high temp grease summer
Molly wheel bearing grease summer
Battleborn grease year round
Alg grease year round

Oils I recommend
Battleborn high purity oil winter
Lps 2 winter
Alg go juice winter
3&1 teflon anytime
Lucas winter

Best rust preventatives
Eezox
Lps 3


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I've used Breakfree CLP in conjunction with any decent gun oil for as long as I first heard of it. No issues of any kind. There are about as many cleaner/lubricants available as there are gun makes nowadays. Probably any of those mentioned here would be fine. I just stick to what works for me.
 

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Remoil is a cheap cleaner and lube. I use it to protect knives and guns. It works as a solvent to break up gunk and smoothes things out. But it is not a heavy lube. On slides and pivot points, Mobil One.
 

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Remoil is a cheap cleaner and lube. I use it to protect knives and guns. It works as a solvent to break up gunk and smoothes things out. But it is not a heavy lube. On slides and pivot points, Mobil One.
Remoil isn't worth a damn. I say this from personal experience. It's prone to gum up on firearms and offers little to no rust prevention.

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Any lube or solvent out there is better than not using any. There aren't any really bad products, just some better than others.
One product I would caution about, is using WD-40.
It is meant as a water displacement product, hence the name, WD.
It is not a good as a lube lube, and will harden and gum up over time. Don't use it on moving parts like trigger mechanisms.

CLP does everything fairly well, hence the name. Cleans, Lubes, Protects.
When I start to clean, I use an aerosol carbon remover like Powder Blast.
Once the carbon from powder fouling is removed, I alternate with brush and patch using CLP, until the bore is clean.

I leave a very light coating of CLP in the bore if I will be shooting again soon, which won't need to be removed before shooting.
If a longer time before use is anticipated, or if it is the "rainy season", I use a heavier soaked patch of CLP, and will run a dry patch thru the bore before the next range session.

Get a brush that fits the chamber, and give a few twists after the bore cleaning.
You want to remove any crud at the end of the chamber, and want to have the chamber pretty dry. A lubed up chamber will make it harder for the cartridge case to stick to the chamber wall, and can increase thrust against the bolt or slide.

Not needed for handguns, but for high velocity rifle cartridges I check for copper fouling with Sweet''s 7.62 Solvent, an ammonia based solvent. Don't leave it in the bore long, and don't apply it to a brass or bronze brush, as it will attack the bristles if left on there.
Keep nylon brushes for the Sweet's.
If your patches come out tinged blue/green after the ammonia soak, you are successfully removing copper deposits.

You don't want to lube the firing pin channel, or the inside of magazine tubes with conventional oil, as it will attract gunk, so if you want to lube those areas use a dry lube like Rem-Dri.
I use Rem-Dri on the inside of magazine tubes like those on my lever action rifles too.
Or if I am going to hunt in extremely cold weather, like a December Pheasant hunt, I'll remove all the oil, and lube with Rem-Dri.
If you are going to be in a sandy, dusty area, like hunting Bighorn Sheep in Baja, or taking a trip to Fallujah with your National Guard unit, you might want to remove all the conventional oil, and lube up with a dry lube.

The old mantra "Oil for Things that Pivot, and Grease for Things that Slide" still applies.
For the slide rails I use Brownell's Action grease, or Wilson's Ultima Lube.
The Ultima Lube is more like a heavy oil that stays in place, rather than a thick grease.

For corrosion protection CLP has always worked fine for me.
If you are really concerned about rust, consider having your firearms Cerakoted.

I've put Cerakote on several firearms, AR's, 1911's, Mini-30's, my 870 and M700 .308.
Not only good for corrosion protection, it's so tough it will potect your parts from wear.
Although this sounds like an ad for Cerakote products, it was a controlled salt bath test done by an independent lab, ASTM.
 
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