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I recently switched from oil to white lithium grease, the spray type. I spray the slide rails and where the barrel sits. Let it dry, then assemble and rack it a handful of times. Ran a competition with a brand new gun and had zero issues and when i went to clean afterwards ive never seen so little buildup for 500rds.
 

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I only use Breakthrough Clean. It is better than a CLP IMO because each stage is used for a specific purpose ie: oil does not have detergents added to it like a CLP does for each ingredient to work with each other. Just my opinion from cleaning a couple guns over the years. When Breakthrough Clean came along I honestly experienced a big difference when cleaning and lubing. Good luck!
 

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I was lurking on some ammo websites yesterday and saw a reply where the member stated there is a special process to apply FROG LUBE. Does anyone here use FL, and what is the process?
 

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As was pointed out earlier ask any number of firearm owners about firearm cleaning procedures and you will likely get a different answer from each.

A lot of good information has been posted here, but when all is said and done it comes down to personal preference.

There are numerous articles, websites and on-line videos that provide instruction on cleaning a firearm. I suggest you aquatint yourself with these processes and even try a few of them until you find the one that works for you.

It is not my intention to start a flame war, but I have never been a fan of all-in-one products like CLP. Although used by the military, IMO logic dictates that a product that "effectively" cleans a firearm cannot also be an "effective" lubricant.

I prefer dedicated products for each task and have never had any issues with any of my firearms. My FiL who has firearms much older than any of mine also use dedicated cleaner and lube and also has never had any issues.

I am not telling anyone what to do, I am just expressing my opinion and giving the benefits of my experience.

As far as cleaning supplies, speaking for myself I found general or universal kits a waste of money. I have since created my own kit stocked with the following.

Cleaning rods - Kleen-Bore’s Saf-T-Clad. These vinyl coated rods help protect the bore from being scratched.

Bronze bore-cleaning brush - Although bore brushes are available in stainless steel, due to their hardness they are not recommended for cleaning as you run the risk of damaging the barrel.

Solvent - I am partial to Hoppe's No. 9. This product has been around for decades and is still an effective cleaner. However, you may find other brands more to your liking.

Mops - For saturating the bore with solvent prior to scrubbing

Jag - I prefer brass as plastic jags can bend in the bore possibly causing damage.

Nylon bristle brush - I find smaller bristle heads better for the tight places.

Patches - Be sure they are the correct size for your caliber firearm

Gun oil - Any good quality gun oil is more than adequate. Again I prefer Hoppe's

Nitrile gloves - Available at pharmacies as well as on-line, Nitrile gloves are resistant to cleaning chemicals. They are great if your skin is sensitive to solvent and gun oil or you just want to keep the smell off your hands.

Pipe Cleaners - Perfect for cleaning those small areas. Use cotton ones as oppose to the nylon normally found at craft stores. Cotton holds solvent better and more of it. They are available online or fine tobacco stores in bundles of fifty for a few dollars.

Cleaning Rags - Old clean t-shirts cut into approximately 10” x 10” squares are ideal. They can also be washed when necessary.

Gun mat - These padded mats protect the work surface from chemicals. The padding also protects the gun of its dropped. Several layers of old newsprint can be used as well.

Compressed air - Canned compressed air is available at most hardware, department or computer stores. It is used to blow out cleaning residue and debris from the nooks and crannies of the firearm.

Eye Protection - Inexpensive shop safety glasses are available at hardware stores and home improvement centers. They are cheap insurance against possible eye injury.

Toolbox - Keeps all your supplies in one place and makes it convenient to carry to the range. Although there are (expensive) purpose made boxes for gun maintenance, a small inexpensive toolbox from home improvement centers works just as well and costs lot less.

I hope this helps.
 

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For cleaning either hopes #9 for the bore or CLP for general clean up. For AR bolt carriers that are very caked up I use Mercury decarbonizer available at west marine.

For lube I use synthetic Mobil 1 leftover from new containers by inverting them and letting the little bit left in a new bottle to trickle out into a small container. Theres always enough to fill a small bottle. Its free and works as good as any gun lube on the market.

For grease I use synthetic militec tw25b. I received 4 6oz tubes from a rep at a tournament a few years ago, and it will probably last the rest of my life. It is good stuff though.
 

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I was lurking on some ammo websites yesterday and saw a reply where the member stated there is a special process to apply FROG LUBE. Does anyone here use FL, and what is the process?
Okay, no FROG LUBERS here. It's time to do a GOOGLE search. :yes
 

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Okay, no FROG LUBERS here. It's time to do a GOOGLE search. :yes
The process involves heating your firearm. With a blow dryer or something. And depending on who you talk to it is not necessary.

I use Seal 1 which is allegedly a knock off of Frog Lube. I've never used heat and never seen anywhere that said I should.
 

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Being a M1A owner, I'm pretty acquainted with proper lubricants. There are books written about it...

For oil, I've been using Break Free LP (Lube, Protect), which I like better than the CLP (Clean, Lube, Protect).

For grease I'm using Super Lube synthetic grease. That's good for sliding areas like where the slide rides on the receiver. Just don't want to use too much.

It's amazing the difference in how smoothly the gun cycles after being lubed, and it even sounds different.

It think a lot of malfunctions could be avoided if people actually lubed the gun before taking it to the range the first time. It sure seems like 90% of the time there's no mention of it.
 

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I think a lot of malfunctions could be avoided if people actually lubed the gun before taking it to the range the first time. It sure seems like 90% of the time there's no mention of it.
No mentioned by whom?

Does not the manual which accompanies new weapons instruct to clean it before initial firing? Is not lubricating the gun part and parcel of the cleaning process?

It is for me.
 

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No mentioned by whom?

Does not the manual which accompanies new weapons instruct to clean it before initial firing? Is not lubricating the gun part and parcel of the cleaning process?

It is for me.
Not always.

Many times there are no specifics given to lube locations either.

S&W does give lube locations, but many do not.

In most video reviews I've seen there is no mention of cleaning and lubing the new gun before testing, and some specifically say they did nothing before test firing.

That's why I said I though many malfunctions could be avoided by cleaning and lubing.

You don't believe me?

EDIT: Taurus TX22 manual - find the specific cleaning and lubing instructions (hint - page 18)

http://www.taurususa.com/wp-content/uploads/manuals/Taurus_Manual_TX22.pdf


Comments from a Walther PPQ owner -

https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/ppq/108641-proud-new-owner.html Post #3

"I didn't lube it before I shot it and had 3 failures to return to battery. All 3 times it took the slightest nudge to go into full battery. Come to think of it, the first time it happened when I went to inspect the gun it put itself into battery which I thought was funny. After I got home I broke it down and saw that it shipped with like zero lube. Ugh. My other recent purchases were soaked from the factory so I guess I was expecting the same thing."



https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/ccp/72098-first-cleaning.html Post #9

"I think anyone that didn't get out all the gunk Walther packs with the CCP before their first trip shooting it will be very disappointed. (That may happen anyway, but it's a given that this model of gun won't function properly as it comes greasy from the factory. It must be cleaned first."


Walther CCP manual - see any instructions about cleaning before use? Lubing? (hint - page 24, section 9.2)

https://www.waltherarms.com/wp-content/uploads/CCP_2014.pdf
 

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In terms of belief the info, or should I say the lack thereof, on p. 18 of the referenced Taurus manual makes me a believer! It seems Taurus owes its customers a bit more than that offering.
 

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Not always.

Many times there are no specifics given to lube locations either.

S&W does give lube locations, but many do not.

You don't believe me?

Walther CCP manual - see any instructions about cleaning before use? Lubing? (hint - page 24, section 9.2)

https://www.waltherarms.com/wp-content/uploads/CCP_2014.pdf
Here is what I found on p. 24 of the Walther manual:
After cleaning apply a thin coat of gun lubricant to all metal parts.
Do not over-lubricate the pistol. Excess lubricant can attract dirt, unburned powder and carbon residue, which can disrupt the proper function of the firearm. If the WALTHER® CCPTM will be used or stored in a
cold climate, be sure to use gun lubricant that will not congeal at low temperatures.

So. lubricating the gun is mentioned, albeit in a rather generic sense.
 

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Been using Hoppe#9 for cleaning since the late 60's. I have used some black powder cleaning solvent for cleaning a rifle after shooting corrosive ammo. Cleaned it once with Black Off (the black powder solvent) and then again with Hoppe#9. Also just used very hot water followed by drying things off good and then cleaning with Hoppe#9.

For lube, started using 3n1 oil in the late 60's. Started using Mobil 1, mostly, in the early to mid 2000's. Still use 3n1 oil at times. The M1 Garands and M1A (and the 556R) get marine grade wheel bearing grease - more resistant to water/moisture than regular grease.

Just bought two more bottles of Hoppe#9 this morning at Walmart.

The Mobile 1 comes from the left overs in the jugs after oil changes on the cars/truck.
 

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i went to weapon shield a few months ago and that will be all i will buy from here on out, i use on my 2.0 9mm but what sold me was on my colt 1911, it felt like it was on ball bearing on my slide, to me it reduced the force to pull the slide by 1/3. good stuff 5 stars
 

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i went to weapon shield a few months ago and that will be all i will buy from here on out, i use on my 2.0 9mm but what sold me was on my colt 1911, it felt like it was on ball bearing on my slide, to me it reduced the force to pull the slide by 1/3. good stuff 5 stars

I bought the grease and the oil about a month and a half ago. So far I am impressed. A little bit goes a long way too.

I still use the Seal 1 for cleaning.
 

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Cleaning supplies are like religions, A deeply personal choice. Hahaha

I use Hoppes #9 as my main solvent. It smells so good some use it as cologne as well. When copper fouling is bad I use Hoppes Copper Terminator, and if it gets real bad I go to Sweets 7.62. For oil I use Hoppes Elite and for grease Shooters Choice.

Wipe out works well too. I use it on my rifles frequently.
 

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Cleaning supplies are like religions, A deeply personal choice. Hahaha

I use Hoppes #9 as my main solvent. It smells so good some use it as cologne as well. When copper fouling is bad I use Hoppes Copper Terminator, and if it gets real bad I go to Sweets 7.62. For oil I use Hoppes Elite and for grease Shooters Choice.

Wipe out works well too. I use it on my rifles frequently.
So it would seem. Personally I am not all that picky. I think regular old Hoppes and some Rem oil work just fine too.

I am impressed with how well Seal 1 removes dirt, fouling etc. but I wouldn't use it as a lube. And be damn sure to get it all off your gun/parts when you're done cleaning it.

So far the Weapon Shield oil has been great and the grease works very well for lube.
 
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