MP-Pistol Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got a couple Q's about cleaning for ya'll.



1. How often do you clean your guns? I've heard that they should be cleaned every time after firing and something like once every 1000 rounds. So what are you opinions on this?



2. How do you clean your gun? I know that everyone is different and everyone has different ways, so I'm just curious as to how some of you that've been doing this for a long time go about cleaning. And what kind of solvents or cleaners do you use.



Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
I clean my guns after every shooting session and use Hoppes #9 and FP-10 lubricant. I have also started using the new Synthetic Safe Gun Scrubber from Birchwood Casey on the frame. It does a good job and is supposed to be safe to use on plastic frames. Both of our M&P's seem to get a lot of crud under the extractor claw, and I did have 2 FTE's early on with my M&P9. I now pay attention to that and have had no other failures in hundreds of rounds through the gun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Depends on the gun. I clean my Kel-tec 380 and PF-9 after every session regardless of how many rounds were shot. My Glock and my M&P's get cleaned after about 100 rounds. Never had any issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
I've wondered this myself. I've only cleaned revolvers which are easy to clean.



Do you clean the inside of the slide with everything removed? I know the manual has instructions on cleaning and I'll probably stick to that. I have a cleaning kit I bought for my 357 so I just need the wire brush for the 40.



What does hoppes #9 look like? is it really obvious and says "hoppes #9 on the bottle" because I tried looking for it and couldn't find it the other day. I should have just asked someone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
Yes Hoppes 9 does say it on the bottle. The label on mine is beige in color. I think the M&P9 is easier to clean than my 686P revolver. Sure I don't have to take the revolver apart, but I do have to scrub like hell to get it clean to my liking (stainless steel--sigh). Scrub, scrub, scrub one barrel, and seven chambers. ::sigh: One tip, stay away from lead ammo--this really dirties up your weapon and requires more elbow grease to clean. Stick to FMJ or JHP ammo, this will keep your cleaning chores to a minimum.



Another tip--get some CLP breakfree spray--this is an easy way to clean up and protect your guns.

I also use silicon wipes once in a while, This will protect your gun's metal during long storage periods.

Ciao,

Effy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
I can clean two M&P's in the time it takes me to clean my revolver. Hoppes 9 is also a good backup cologne when the Old Spice bottle goes dry........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
On the cologne topic ... I find my daughter's boy friend now associates the smell of Hoppe's #9 to me cleaning my guns on the kitchen table ... which just "happend" to be when he came to pick her up the first time. Strange how smells trigger memories later on ...

... can't say I didn't warn him !?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Win3030 said:
On the cologne topic ... I find my daughter's boy friend now associates the smell of Hoppe's #9 to me cleaning my guns on the kitchen table ... which just "happend" to be when he came to pick her up the first time. Strange how smells trigger memories later on ...

... can't say I didn't warn him !?


I know a girl whos father stratigecly (spelling?) placed every one of his guns in the den, which has no door and is to the left of the front door, when her prom date came to pick her up........and he was cleaing them, under all his deer heads.





I said it would have worked when I was in high school but if it was today I would be asking what model it is and calibers along with reloading questions and range time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Does anyone have a list of steps they take, after field stripping the weapon, and the chemicals/lube they use to clean their M&P. I just don't know what requires cleaning and the manual is insufficent IMHO. I'll try a youtube or google search.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
Does anyone have a list of steps they take, after field stripping the weapon, and the chemicals/lube they use to clean their M&P. I just don't know what requires cleaning and the manual is insufficent IMHO. I'll try a youtube or google search


What you need:

Brass bore brush in appropriate size,

Nylon brush or tooth brush,

Bore snake or rod length for bore brush and patches,

Patch jag

Patches

CLP of your choice

Carbon Solvent

Dental pick or pipe cleaners



I really recommend the Otis cleaning kit, I love mine!



Check to make sure the pistol is unloaded, then,

Check to make sure the pistol is unloaded!



Okay, now, disassemble the pistol to its basic components of the slide, frame, barrel, and main spring. Lay them out on a cloth in front of you. Focus on one component at a time.



First, take your bore snake, and a patch, and soak the patch in a solvent of your choice (I use hoppes bore gel). Run this through the barrel (always in from the breach and out from the muzzle)a few times. Then, take a nylon brush (most kits come with one, but a tooth brush would do you fine) and apply a few drops of the solvent to it. Scrub the feed ramp and the flat surfaces on the outside of the chamber that face the breach during lock up, take care to scrub around the barrel hood. Set the barrel aside for a moment while you wipe down the slide, allowing the solvent to do the hard work.



Now, pick up the slide and wipe it down with a rag, using some elbow grease to take off the harder carbon near the breach face, muzzle, and the brass bits near the firing pin plunger (along that portion of the slide that protrudes and rubs against the rounds still in the magazine while the slide moves). After all the major carbon is wiped off, take your CLP and pour some on the rag, or spray some directly to the slide- Be careful not to spray it directly into the firing pin hole. Scrub off the stubborn carbon.



Now, take that nylon brush that you had used to scrub the feed ramp and outer edges of the chamber, and scrub the breach portion of the slide, allowing the bristles to work into the 90 degree corners and under the extractor near the breach. Set the slide down, allowing the chemicals to do their job.



Pick the barrel back up and run a brass brush through the bore a time or two (Remember only in one direction, in from the breach, and exiting the muzzle!). Then, take a CLP coated patch and run it through the bore a few times. This should get the harsh chemicals out, and a majority of the fouling. Now, run patches through until they come out a very very light gray or completely white (its up to you on how anal you are...). I finish off with a clean patch coated in CLP down the bore to protect it, and potentially help with clean up after the next shooting session. Wipe down the entire barrel in a light coating of CLP and set aside. This component is now clean.



Pick up your slide, and your nylon brush, and give it another round of scrubbing in the corners and on the breach face to brush away the carbon the solvent has worked loose. If you have a dental pick, just run it down the corners near the breach face where the chamber locks up, and under the extractor claw, as well as in the groove on the extractor's underside where it interfaces with the breach. Take a clean patch/rag with CLP on it and wipe down the entire area, wiping away the solvent and any scraped loose carbon from the corners. Finish with a few Q tips to the hard to reach areas and nooks and crannies, pay particular attention to underneath the extractor claw, this is a critical area. Wipe down the entire slide in a very light coat of CLP. Set this part aside, it is done.



Pick up your frame and run a rag through the mag well, inserting it at the bottom and pulling towards the top (so as to not hang the rag on the mag or sear disconnect). Take your rag and wipe down the entire metal chassis removing as much carbon as possible. Wipe down the frame rail near the muzzle as its probably covered in powder and a lovely shade of gray. Then, take a few Q tips and clean any areas that are tight and hard to reach, like near the sear, near the trigger inside the frame, ect. Set this part aside, as it is clean.



Wipe down your main spring.



Lube any wear areas, paying special attention to the chamber slide interface, and the parts that lock up with the chassis, as well as the slide and its corresponding rails on the frame. I also take a Q tip and dab it in some FP-10 and rub it on the feed ramp, and trigger control group.



Reassemble and perform a functions check.







Also, every 500 rounds or so, you can pull the striker and use a few Q tips (but no solvents or CLP!) in a twisting motion to clean out the primer flow from the firing pin channel on the back side of the breach. Use a rag to wipe off the tip of the striker as some of the primer flow may be caked on rather well. Do not lube this when you put it back, because the fluid can create resistance to the striker, and even a sort of minute hydraulic compression effect.



Wait for someone more experienced then me to confirm these instructions as A: I am rather amateur at this pistol stuff, and B: I'm some what tired as I type this. Hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
All this needs is some pictures and its good to go, I'm trying to find some pictures of things not shown in the manual such as the breach face, feed ramp and striker, although that is shown on here. Then this would be the perfect thing for anyone new to cleaning this gun
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
I just dropped my gun in dirt right after i finished off a mag and was changing to another one. Is there any way to take the gun apart to make sure I get ALL of the sand/dirt out? I just took it apart now and wiped out all the dirt i could see using q tips but there still feels to be some more
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
CLP: Clean, Lubricate, and Protectant.



Its kind of an all in one, CLP Breakfree is an example and probably the most popular, eezox is the one I use. It breaks down carbon and surface rust, is an lubrication similar in consistency to rem-oil, and it protects the metal from rusting. Thus the name.



I just dropped my gun in dirt right after i finished off a mag and was changing to another one


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Hi, I generally clean after each trip to the range. However, if I know I'm returning the next day it's usually a quick run through the muzzle 3-4 times, a couple of q-tipsand a quick ripe off.

I use Break Free CLP and M Pro7 solvent and Rem oil.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
This may seem like a lame question, but how do you pull the striker off the slide? I go by the manual and field strip my mp9 as such, but I'd hate to *try* to remove it and cause damage to my weapon. Thanks in advance.



Ciao,

Effy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
I'm not sure I understand your question. If your field stripping according to the manual then you needent go any further to clean your gunproperly.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
If you want to know how to take the striker out look up the trigger job by burwell. It will show you in there. I didn't want to touch it.





I have a question. I bought the bore snake and I was wondering how to use it. It doesn't mention anything about using any type of gun oil or lube on it. Is that correct?







I cleaned my M&P today. Little longer then a revolver and a little more stubborn but now that I've done it once I'll know what to expect for future trips. Like riding a bike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Why do you say be careful not to get solvent/clp in the firing pin hole? I wipe down the face of the pin cover with a rag that is dampened with clp, but never put any in. Wouldn't the better quailty oils/cleaners not cause a problem?





Be careful not to spray it directly into the firing pin hole. Scrub off the stubborn carbon.



Also, every 500 rounds or so, you can pull the striker and use a few Q tips (but no solvents or CLP!)
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top