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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All:



I just picked up my first M&P 9. I was "gifted" a Sigma years ago and never liked it... awful trigger!

I rented an M&P at a local range and liked it. For under $500 out-the-door, I decided to get one.

I'm having trouble understanding the proper positioning of the Sear Deactivation Lever (SDL). I don't seem to have two positions as described in the manual's description (Up and Down), but rather three positions:



1)Up ... just up.

2)Straight Down (SD) 'till it comes to rest on a shelf, not engaging the sear; such that the SDL can be moved back up freely.

3)ALL the way down (AWD) = Pushed to the SD position described above, then pushed inboard and lowered into a centered notch, such that it engages the sear and CANNOT be raised back up to its starting position without pulling the trigger to release the sear.



For me, the manual was not clear about this. I consider myself to be of avridge inteliginse ... OK, I

know, lame joke ... but, really...did anyone else ever have trouble with this? Granted, I was awfully tired, and working with poor lighting, but I DID push the SDL down as instructed until it came to a stop.



I had no way of knowing that I then had to "flex it" inboard in order to be able to push it down even

more, to the bottom of a center notch. I so prefer things to be CLEAR. Anyway ...



I was able to fieldstrip the pistol easily, by pushing the SDL down until it stopped (SD) but when I tried to reassemble it, the trigger was not setting. After playing around with it, I discovered that the SDL must be in the lowest position (AWD) in order to hook onto whatever it hooks onto! By having the SDL in the AWD position during assembly, I am able to have a trigger that engages. Is this the proper manner to assemble? Is this how this is SUPPOSED to work? I ask because when I go to fieldstrip the pistol now, after assembling it as I described, the SDL is never in the UP position after I lock the slide back. After I lock the slide back, I must hold the trigger back and manually move the SDL slightly up from AWD to the SD position before the slide will come free.



What am I missing here??? Is there, perhaps, not supposed to be such an intermediate step as the "SD" position ... could my pistol have an atypical extra step? Please advise. I would like to take her to the range soon, but not before I know for sure that I'm not overlooking something ... or haven't buggered something ALREADY!



Thanks.

Also, the trigger measures about 6.25-6.5 lbs on my RCBC simple spring trigger pull scale. My old Sigma's trigger is probably over 10# - I can't tell for sure, because the scale is only marked to 8 lbs! Anyhow, the trigger on the new M&P naturally feels lighter than the Sigma, but it is not smooth by any means. There's some definite grittiness and "croinking" noises during the takeup before the stacking begins. I'll most likely send it off to Mr. Burwell for one of his acclaimed trigger jobs. Cheerio!
 

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I'm not really sure what is going on here. And your post is kind of hard to follow. (Sorry)



Anyway, the SDL has 2 positions, up and down. When you push the SDL down, it should cam the sear down, just like the sear moves when you pull the trigger.



You don't have to touch the trigger for assembly or reassembly. And you should not have to push the SDL any way but down. After you reassemble the pistol, simply insert a magazine into the gun. This will push the SDL back up; this will allow the trigger to engage the sear.
 

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FUcilo,

I just field stripped my MP9 to check out what you're talking about, and I'm not sure i'm with you. The sear deactivation lever on mine only has the first two positions you named, UP & Straight down. When i flip it down to remove the slide, it pivots freely until it comes to rest, I tried to push it in and down like you said, but it doesn't move. Or, i'm not willing to push hard enough to get it to move any more. When you remove the slide and look inside the frame, move the lever between UP & SD and you can see it lift the sear and then let it back down. I don't see anywhere else for it to go.



I'd say just forget about the AWD as long as you can field strip the pistol normally and it doesn't malfunction when shooting. Have you shot it yet??? Assuming a bullet comes out of the barrel every time you pull the trigger, I wouldn't worry about it.



Hope this helps, Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now I understand

Hello, again:



I tried to post this earlier, while at work, but I got interrupted and I clicked on something or other ... I don't know what, but it didn't go through. I thought that, because I included a picture, it might have to be "screened" by moderators before showing up. (?) Or, maybe I clicked on "cancel" or the like. (?) In any case, If I end up double posting, my appologies up front. This "essay" is way-long, so escape now if you don't like to read! You've been warned. - Fucilo



OK, First off ... thanks for the replies. Granted, nobody understood me, but that's MY fault. My writing style may be awkward and I don't know proper nomenclature for all the mechanical parts of the pistol. Nonetheless, I DO appreciate the feedback. Secondly ... my problem is solved (but I hope I didn't create another ... that's another posting)... solved by a Master Moderator's simple words - points scored for Sir YukonGlocker. I only have a couple of autoloaders, and the Sigma is the one I've shot the most ... other than the Buchmark .22. When assembling the Sigma after a fieldstripping, the trigger is back to operational status (cocked, set, under load? ... whatever is the proper term?) as soon as the slide is back on and in its closed position. I can dry-fire the Sigma without inserting a magazine first. I can then rack the slide and dry-fire again and again. This is not so with the M&P, as most of you probably know. I did not know this, and not knowing made me look for trouble when there was none ... and if I'm LOOKING for trouble, I'm gonna' FIND it (even if I have to create it, apparently!)



When I realized that the M&P could not be dry-fired immediately after assembly (well, at least not after being assembled per the manual's instuctions) I figured that I must have done something wrong, like have something lined-up incorrectly. Now, before I go on, let me make a brief memo on the Instruction Manual. Had the last line in the assembly instructions read something like YukonGlocker's point-scoring details,



"After you reassemble the pistol, simply insert a magazine into the gun.

This will push the SDL back up; this will allow the trigger to engage the sear"



... I would not have had ANY issues!



Why couldn't S&W's technical writers have added those simple instructions, or even a single sentence with a brief comment about that? (whine, whine) Instead, I assumed (yeah, I know, "make an ...) that It SHOULD dry-fire after racking the slide from putting it back together, just like my Sigma does. When I racked the slide again, hoping that it would NOW reset the trigger, the trigger was still not engaged.



HOWEVER ... I WAS FINALLY ABLE to make it dry fire immediately after assembly, over and over again by racking the slide, WITHOUT ever inserting the magazine ...by CHEATING. I did not cheat by sticking a pencil up the mag well ... that would have been too logical for my small brain. Yup, I cheated worse and undoubtedly put some undue stress on some stuff in there. I will try to detail exactly what I DID, so that no other newbie should follow my lead.



Here's how I went looking for (and created) trouble.

I field stripped the pistol, which was super easy. Granted, the "tool" did take a bit more force to rotate out of its captive state than I would have initially expected ... EXCEPT for the fact that I've read so many complaints about it on this forum that I did, indeed, EXPECT it to be tough. I didn't want to be one of those run-of-the-mill newbies... I had to do something REALLY stupid.



As I held the partial-gun in front of me, I pulled the trigger and watched the reults. I moved the Sear Deactivation Lever (SDL) to its upper position and pulled the trigger... back to the lower position (SD, straight down) and pulled the trigger ... several times. I could not imagine WHAT I was doing wrong such that the pistol would not dry-fire after assembly. I turned the gun's muzzel-end towards towards my face so that I could see the sear from a different angle. I put the SDL Up and back down and Up again. While UP, I noticed that the SDL rests on a little shelf when in the down position ... and right next to the shelf was another notch that I envisioned might allow the SDL to position itself even lower. Ah-HA ... "maybe it's supposed to go all the way to THERE", I thought. It was quite easy to convince the SDL to slide over and drop down into this other notch. I simply put it down onto its PROPER lower shelf and then pushed it sideways towards the trigger x-fer bar until it cleared the lower shelf and lowered it another .040". (you can try this, if you're curious to see what I did (but read the entire posting first - I'm obviously not a gunsmith by any stretch, but moving the lever sideways a bit against the spring tension, and then lowering it as I did, did not require any un-natural amount of force ... I mean, NO force was necessary - it slid right over and down. If you decide to check this out, MAKE SURE you return the SDL to one of its PROPER positions before assembling the pistol). Anyway ... back to my poor story.



When I first realized that the SDL could be moved lower than its natural low position, I wondered if my new-found lower position (All Way Down, AWD) was the CORRECT position .(?) Again, I was thinking there HAD to be a reason why I could not dry-fire, and I was LOOKING for trouble!



I decided to try to assemble the pistol with the SDL moved to AWD.

1) "Would the gun re-assemble now?" (YES).

2) "Will it dry-fire now, immediately after putting the slide back on ... no magazine insertion?" (YES)

3) "Will it re dry-fire if I rack the slide again?" (YES, YES, YES, YES, YES ... too many times to count, I'm afraid)



Well ... three-for-three ... I must have found the problem! (what a dope)



4) "Does the trigger feel right?" (NO, I don't THINK so, but it's a brand new

gun for me and I don't know for sure. Still, it feels odd enough that I

must post on the forum for help... something's not right. I especially

don't like the fact that the SDL is canted when in the AWD position - that

just can't be right, nor can the fact that I must manipulate the SDL manually

back up by first releasing the sear).



While the gun is fieldstripped, when the SDL is moved to the UP position, the sear is down and "loose" and will be "cammed" up by the trigger x-fer bar when the trigger is pulled back and relaxed and lowered when the trigger returns forward. When the SDL is moved to its proper lower position, doing so "cams" the sear up and holds it there. Now comes the fun part- When the SDL is lowered more, to the AWD position, the sear drops again ... and the SDL CANNOT be raised again without raising the sear first (by holding the trigger back). And so ... by assembling my pistol with the SDL down beyond its proper lowered position, I was really screwing things up! But hey ... at least I could DRY-FIRE without inserting a magazine ... my mission was accomplished. Seriously, though ... I wonder if assembling with the SDL in the AWD position could allow the trigger on a gun with a "Mag. Disconnect Safety" to still function? My head hurts to think about it ... too much writing ... need food.



Cheers, all.

BTW, the trigger is lots smoother during dry-fire now than it was when assembled in my

bass-akwards "AWD" style. Imagine THAT!



Thanks, again.

Great Forum - I'll be back! (unless the Moderators screen my posts for being too lengthy)
 

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Wow, that was like high school again
Seriously though, glad you've got it figured out.

Good Luck.
 

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You don't have to have a magazine in the gun to dryfire, unless you have the mag disconnect.

You can simply use an empty mag to push the SDL back up. Then take the mag out to dryfire.



Thanks for the compliments.

Man that was some interesting reading!!! :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
attn: YukonGlocker

Sir Okie,

are you familiar with Sperry?

I have family in Tulsa, Sperry, and Broken Arrow ... with a Trailer at Lake Fort Gibson.

I am a New Englander, though.
 

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Fucilo, I'm fully aware of the settings you are referring to. The very first time I tried to field strip my mp 40c, it was about 11:30pm, time for bed, but curiousity got the best of me, and I wish it hadn't. It bugged me most of the night. My luck with guns is horrible.



I too placed the pin in the lowest positon, apparently by accident, and could not get the pin to move up, hence, not allowing the mag to insert into the mag well. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON??? I went back and read the owners manual several times, but it was not helpful at all. Finally, the next day, after studying the mechanics of the gun, I pulled the trigger, and this allowed the pin to go back up to its original position. I shared my little problem with the gun dealer from whom I purchased my gun, and they said they had never heard of such a thing. That was after they gave me one of those, "You don't know what the heck you're doing or talking about" looks.



Don't allow your curiousity to get the best of you. If you haven't experienced this problem, just keep doing what is working for you. If you do experience this problem, of course make sure no cartridge has been chambered, pull the trigger, and lift up on the pin.



I know this much, I no longer pull out on the pin very far when field stripping my weapon. That experience was a royal pain the butt.
 
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