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Ill assume you have the assembly already removed;



remove the pin closest to the trigger tip by punching it out with an apprpriate sized punch or drill bit would work. The do the same to the other pin. When you reinstall, do it in reverse order so the trigger tip has spring tension.



Theres nothing inside or any tricks to mess it up, other that saying that if you use an oversized punch, you can make the holes in the plastic oversized and casue the pns not to be tight and secure when you reassemble it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks sir but I meant removing the trigger assembly from the frame. My apologies for the confusion.
 

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Ah, I see;



well, its really just one part of detail stripping the M&P.

I believe that the trigger job instructions cover detail stripping the M&P as well as doing the trigger job.

If you search this forum for "trigger job link", you should find a link to it; I believe dan burwell is nice enough to host it on his site.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did look at the diy trigger job, no instructions on getting the trigger out though just the sear block and striker assembly.
 

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ok, Im sorry. Im doing this from memory, and theres no real way to mess it up unless you force something. DO NOT force anything! Do this on a nice wide table and use a cloth to ca





Remove any mag from the pistol, check to see that the chamber is clear and otherwise make youre you dont have a loaded pistol.



Remove the slide off the frame. then, on the frame, rotate the takedown lever counterclock wise up and wiggle it out. Then knock out the front roll pin, which ever way. Slide the front locking block up and out of the slots in the frame. Pay attention to the L shaped spring that looks like half of a staple; it will reside in a cut out on the left side of the locking block. Then push out the trigger pin from right to left. Take a good look at how the ambi slide lock lever, the plastic trigger, AND the trigger return spring go together.

The trigger assembly and the slide lock lever should just come right out of ther as you pull it out.

If the end of the trigger bar (the end that slides into the sear block) gets held up , then carefully work it out of the sear block without forcing anything.



Come to think of it, Ive always done this with the sear block housing already out of the pistol. That may have to be done, but looking at it, I dont think so..





good luck and follow those instructions at your own risk.!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks a lot for the very helpful instructions, I was able to disassemble it, though you need to remove the trigger pin first before you can remove the locking block.
 

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Right; Im glad you got through my flaw.
 

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Thanks for the info Mike, working on mine now to remove pre-travel and resetting the two piece safety on the trigger...
8)
 

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youre welcome, brother!



be very careful when you drive the pin back in, if the bottom part of the trigger isnt fitted properly, you can drive the pin right into the plastic leaf spring inside there. and chew it up but good.

-dont ask me how I know.......

 

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mike cyrwus said:
youre welcome, brother!



be very careful when you drive the pin back in, if the bottom part of the trigger isnt fitted properly, you can drive the pin right into the plastic leaf spring inside there. and chew it up but good.

-dont ask me how I know.......



No worries. All went nice and smooth. Here are some pics of the operation and end result... :8



http://mp-pistol.com/boards/viewtopic.php?t=8712
 
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