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Discussion Starter #1
Dealer said no problem dry firing the Ruger but he didn't know if it'd be a problem with the M&P or not...



Anyone here know if it's okay or should be avoided??
 

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according to smith and wesson, it is ok. It's in their customer support faq on their website, which says everything but rimfires.



On the other hand, a lot o the strikers people ahve broken have broken while dry firing.
 

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I handled one at a show recently and asked the guy if it was o.k. to dry fire it - he said no problem. He was very knowlegeable and probably wouldn't have said o.k. if it wasn't. Very nice trigger, I almost bought it on the spot but his price was too high ($560 + tax/fees).
 

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What do you dry fire with? As far as a round or whatever. And what do you look for when dry firing? Maybe if I start doing this I can fix any errors in my techinque causing my low and left shooting.
 

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I gave a long speech about it on another forum recently, so I'm just gonna do the short version here




Occassional dry fire is probably okay. W/ long term dry fire practice - go get some snap caps.



Glocks must be dry fired to disassemble. But, I've see numerous posts over the years of guys who have had the metal portion of the slide surrounding the firing pin hole break/crack. Admittedly, these are guys who dry fire a lot, but still...



Beretta 92s are known to break firing pins w/ a lot of dry firing. And, HK finally updated the firing pin design because the previous ones in the USPs could break from dry firing.



U will get some people who claim all modern semi-autos can dry fire to their hearts content, but its not always completely true. And, just because 1 guy does it all the time doesn't mean yours won't break 1 day.



What if it breaks the day U need the gun. Snap caps are cheap insurance...



Well, looks like I ended up with the semi-long version afterall
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not that you need it with the M&P but there are "Snap Caps" if I remember correctly. Fake bullets you use to dry fire to give the pin something to bump and keep from causing damage.



They come in various calibers. You usually have to get a dealer to order them - not a common stock item.
 

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DixieThunder 24 said:
What do you dry fire with? As far as a round or whatever. And what do you look for when dry firing? Maybe if I start doing this I can fix any errors in my technique causing my low and left shooting.


Low and left? I bet your are right handed. That's a pretty classic preshot flinch. Dry firing will most certainly help you out. Deliberate concentration on keeping the sights steady through a full trigger engagement through sear break will help you to get used to the idea of trigger control. Couple that with purposeful live fire training concentrating on trying to see the front sight lift out of the rear sight's notch will go a long way towards removing that preflinch.
 

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Snap caps don't make any noise. All they are is a dummy bullet with a spring loaded primer that absorbs most of the blow from the striker. They are reusable for many strikes.(The exact number depends on the type/quality) It is not necessary to cycle them through the gun, you can just pull the slide back enough to recock.
 

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They do wear out after a while. The firing pin will keep hitting it and eventually will make a deep depression. U may get up to 100 pulls of the trigger out of 1. If U keep using them after a while, the depression in the snap cap gets too deep - and then the firing pin won't make contact anymore.. Then, it defeats the purpose...
 

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ShipWreck said:
They do wear out after a while. The firing pin will keep hitting it and eventually will make a deep depression. U may get up to 100 pulls of the trigger out of 1. If U keep using them after a while, the depression in the snap cap gets too deep - and then the firing pin won't make contact anymore.. Then, it defeats the purpose...


Honestly if I'm only getting 100 pulls out of a snap cap and I pay $15 for 5 of them, then I'm just gonna buy a few spare strikers and dry fire without the snap caps. I'm assuming I can dry fire at least for a few thousand cycles before any issues with the striker rear up. I've got thousands on my Glock 34 striker without ever a need for a replacement.
 

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I have a perfect solution for the snap cap issue. I've been using this method for many years and I came up with the idea myself. I take a spent casing, whichever caliber you have, and remove the old primer and place silicone into the primer pocket so It's just above the back of the cartridge rim. Then, once it's dry, I use an exacto knife or razor blade to cut it flush with the rim. You now have a snap cap for just a few cents and they last forever. The silicone in the caps I've made has never fallen out of the casing and it does not become indented like the metal snap caps do, so you can use it virtually forever. Hope this helps.



P.S.



This is my first post and I really like this forum. I just got my first M&P 9 full size yesterday. I will post about it shortly.



Best regards.



Mike.
 

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I spoke to a friend at Gunsite and they are not big on snap caps. They have seen and heard of 'mix ups' where ADs result because someone thought they were inserting a snap-cap and got a live round.



So be careful, and pay attention.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tangle said:
I spoke to a friend at Gunsite and they are not big on snap caps. They have seen and heard of 'mix ups' where ADs result because someone thought they were inserting a snap-cap and got a live round.



So be careful, and pay attention.


GOOD POINT!



ALSO - You wouldn't want to get into a confrontation where you had to use it for life or death situation and it just go "click" - not "bang" either...
 

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[quote="ArmyCop]...You wouldn't want to get into a confrontation where you had to use it for life or death situation and it just go "click" - not "bang" either...[/quote]That'd be really bad!!!
 

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Morphire said:
Honestly if I'm only getting 100 pulls out of a snap cap and I pay $15 for 5 of them, then I'm just gonna buy a few spare strikers and dry fire without the snap caps. I'm assuming I can dry fire at least for a few thousand cycles before any issues with the striker rear up. I've got thousands on my Glock 34 striker without ever a need for a replacement.


Assuming that there is a real issue with strikers wearing out and breaking due to dry fire, your plan may cause you some problems. You never know when the striker is going to break, so how will you know when to swap out strikers? Its not a bad idea to have back up parts and such, but the added insurance of the snap cap is well worth it if you have to bet your life on your gun. If you reload, you can make them by the boat load, with spent brass Speer plastic practice bullets (so they look different from regular ammo, RTV/Silicone/Urethane... and a razor. Heck if you want to be real anal spray paint them bright orange when youre done.
 
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