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Discussion Starter #1
hello everyone.Today I completed my first trigger job and have a couple questions.



I basically followed the instructions posted on dan's website minus the firing pin safety as I didn't have a way to do this reliably. Can someone post a picture of the sear from the side so that I can get a better idea what the angle should look like?? I have it knocked down a little, and I know every gun is different but I just want a better idea.



also...there is still a lot of take up in my trigger. It feels pretty good on the break...probably 4.5 pounds, but the take up is still gritty and looooooong




Rest works fine but I have seen/heard some that have a more definite click with the reset. I can feel mine a lot better now but I still can't hear it.



Also, my striker assembly looks different than the one online. There is a small J hook on the end of it where they show to polish. I assume that this is a design difference between 9/40 and 45 correct.



Any help would be appreciated .

Thanks
 

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The grit and crunch is there because you didnt radius the striker plunger.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
appreciate it guys.....I probably have 400 rounds through it, without a malfunction of any kind by the way 8)



Any comments on the lack of an audible reset??
 

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probably the same reason; the trigger bar resets after it comes off the plunger in stock form; by bringing the reset back by reshaping the nose of the sear, your probably brought the bar's reset back enough to where its dealing with the non-radiused FP plunger.



You really need that done; whats stopping you? The rear sight removal, or the plunger radiusing?



Since Im feeling full of holiday cheer; if you wanted to send me the plunger, Ill radius it for you.

Heck, if you want to send me the slide, Ill prep the whole thing.






edit: for spelling
 

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Sounds like Mike is exactly correct. The firing pin block contributes the most to a nice trigger break and reset on these guns. Since you've modified the front of the sear, the trigger will break later, but the FPB still activates for the stock break area. If you radius the plunger, then the trigger bar will be coming off the plunger just as it is reseting with the sear, giving it a little extra oomph and giving you a nice audible reset.



In stock form, the FPB took just over a pound to activate, and since I've radiused the plunger and broke and polished the corner of the trigger bar slightly, the pull has dropped to right at 1/4 lb and resulted in a MUCH smoother take-up, trigger break and reset.



My gun (serial # MPV3xxx) also has the "J" shaped striker - I think the one pictured in the instructions was either an early version or one modified for lighter pull (taking that J down should have the same effect as removing some of the striker spring).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok..... could putting a radius on that part be done with a file then polished with a stone? If so then I am in good shape.
I didn't realize that was so important for a good trigger job. What is the availability of that part in case I jack it up?? I appreciate all of the responses and quick answers.
 

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DON'T use a file or a stone when rounding the plunger. I used a bench grinder, VERY LIGHTLY on the smooth stone then polished with a felt tip w/ polish on a dremmel. Place the plunger on a tip of a roll pin punch and let it spin gently against the grinder. Follow Dan's trigger instructions on this part.



You can order a new plunger by calling S&W.



Sears are $2 through S&W, I ordered some through them. Just FYI.
 

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Hi, Newb here, parts lingo is confusing.

pictures, diagrams, arrows, circles would help a million.

One picture is worth a zillion words

Thanks
 

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Blake Gibson said:
ok..... could putting a radius on that part be done with a file then polished with a stone? If so then I am in good shape.
I didn't realize that was so important for a good trigger job. What is the availability of that part in case I jack it up?? I appreciate all of the responses and quick answers.


It's fairly difficult to mess up.



For the initial cut, I chucked the plunger up in a drill and started with 240 grit paper. It takes about 100 tries to get the plunger square in the drill chuck, or you can use a spacer with square cut ends to get it close. Spin the drill and radius the plunger by hand, constantly moving the paper around to different angles. As long as you keep things moving, you should be fine. Once you get it cut to a decently rounded radius (don't worry about specifics, just make the 45* angle into a nice round edge), then hit it with the polishing wheel as per the instructions, or take a dremel, put it into a vice, and use that as your "bench grinder/polisher". It takes a bit longer to do, but thats the price we pay for not having real tools
 

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Also, you'll want to 'break' the edge of the trigger bar a bit where it makes it's 45* angle. It should be almost imperceptibly rounded, take too much off and you'll risk delaying deactivation of the firing pin block too much. Just make the sharp edge into a nice rounded curve a tiny bit and polish all the surfaces nicely.



I know this sounds intimidating, but it really is hard to mess up if you go slow.
 
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