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Been meaning to tear it down and do some polishing to make the trigger smoother (like my wife's Shield 1.0, at least).
Got things ready (tools/towel, etc) yesterday and got into the biggest mess I've had with a gun in a long time. I well never pull the guts out of that frame again. It was nearly 8 PM when I finally got it back together and didn't do a darn thing for the trigger. Just getting all those loose/floppy pieces back in place and back in the frame.
Word of warning. Some pieces are easy to get out. Some are not. Some fall off other bigger assemblies easier than you'd believe till they fall on the towel/table/bench. Then it's a fight to keep them in place while you get that assembly back in the frame.
The grip safety pin is easy to drive out and nothing about the grip safety itself was hard to get out or in (not quite true for the metal piece the grip safety activates).
Grip safety (spring stayed on no problem), grip safety pin (short pin), take down lever (drove out easily with a couple taps of the hammer on a punch), trigger housing/front rails (push pin pushed out easily, like a big M&P), rear pin for the sear housing/rear rails (small diameter long pin that was the most difficult pin to pound out). I was hoping to get the sear housing out without removing the trigger housing (like you can do on a big M&P but that didn't work). The trigger housing lifted out easily. The sear housing was a PITB to twist, pry, pull out. Reasons (one) later.
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The post in the back of the frame is what the spring on the grip safety fits over. Notice the little T notch in the plastic under the grip safety slot? That's part of the issue getting the trigger housing out and back in. There's an upside down T on the back/bottom of the sear housing that has to go into the slot on the grip safety side that makes it hard to orient the sear housing correctly while keeping the loose parts on the side of it in place. Take a thin bladed common screw driver and pry up just enough to get the T to rise up from the slots so you can get the sear housing out of the frame.
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Grip safety with the shiny piece of metal you see on the left side of the trigger housing that is activated by the grip safety. The little slot on the left top side of the grip safety is where the bottom tip of the metal piece fits. The grip safety went back in last to allow the metal piece to flop around some when installing the sear housing. Just be sure to get the metal leg/tab down in the frame slot for the grip safety.
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The small piece with the spring on it sits in a slot inside the right side of the frame and falls out easily once the sear housing is out. The shiny metal piece is the arm the grip safety moves. The black metal piece is on the right side of the sear housing and is the piece that lifts the firing pin block upwards when the trigger is pulled. The grip safety piece and the black piece fall off the sear housing easily and the grip safety piece is difficult to hold in place while getting the sear housing back in the frame. The spring piece can also fall out of the frame while trying to get the sear housing back in. At some point, once you get the sear housing in far enough the frame holds the parts in place. A big problem is trying to get the sear housing aligned to slide into place can result in those parts getting out of alignment or just falling out again.
See the two holes in the grip safety piece? Both will fit over the pin it hangs off of on the left side of the sear housing but it has to use the bottom hole to fit/work correctly. See the round pin on the front of the black piece? It fits into the slot you see in the trigger bar. The two arms on the rear of the black piece fit/align so that the top one is above the right side safety lever arm. I have no idea how the non thumb safety Equalizers look inside. Like I said, both of these pieces will fall off/get out of alignment when trying to get the sear housing back in place. The grip safety piece is the worst of the two.
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Slide lock lever. Easily falls off the trigger housing while you pull the trigger housing out of the frame. While the spring on the trigger housing mostly stays in place be careful of it. It did fall off on me once. The tip on the front side of the spring you see curled outwards fits into the slot on the front of the slide lock lever. Another piece (slide lock lever) you have to hold onto just right when putting the trigger housing back in the frame.
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Trigger housing. See the pin in the trigger? It'll fall right out if you turn the housing over and the trigger bar falls right out, too, without the pin in place to hold it. Easy to see the little bent tip on the coil spring that fits into the slide lock lever when you put the slide lock lever on the pin on the housing.
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Trigger housing with the slide lock lever in place. Not nearly as hard to keep in place while partially inserting the trigger housing into the frame as the parts on the sear housing, but be aware of it.
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That small piece with the spring on it that pushes against the bottom front of the black piece that goes on the right side of the trigger housing. You can see it in the slot if fits into on the right side of the frame.
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Bottom side of the sear housing showing that T that fits into the slots in the back of the frame to help holt the sear housing in place.
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Left side of the sear housing. You can see the safety and the two small holes on the left side. These are the holes (larger in diameter on the back side/inside) that the detent pushes against to hold the safety in position (safe or fire). Beware that spring and detent you can't really see. Twice, while moving the sear housing trying to get it lined up the safety moved enough to allow that spring to launch the detent. Easily found it the first time (landed on the light used to help me see) and it took a while the second time (several attempts) to find (on the table but under a center piece in the middle of the table.) Almost lost it a third time when the safety moved but not enough to let it fly.
See the shiny post? That's what the grip safety metal piece sits on and easily falls off of.
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I did not even attempt to take the sear housing apart to polish any parts. Spring and pins, etc. I figured I might never get back together correctly.
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This is as close as I could get the sear housing in several times before it "miraculously" slid into place on tle "last" attempt. I'd try to get it in, wiggle it, push, twist, pull, etc. (why I lost the safety detent twice and almost a third time) with uncounted times the grip safety piece fell out of place and the right side black metal piece got out of alignment.
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As I think I said, I wouldn't recommend taking it apart to polish the rough edges off. I'd rather get into a sear housing on a CZ75B, Omega series CZ, full sized M&P, Colt 1911, S&W revolvers, etc., etc., etc. than take this thing apart again to the point I did, let alone far enough to do the polishing work I set out to do.
If you do it, I hope it goes smoother for you than it did for me.
Got things ready (tools/towel, etc) yesterday and got into the biggest mess I've had with a gun in a long time. I well never pull the guts out of that frame again. It was nearly 8 PM when I finally got it back together and didn't do a darn thing for the trigger. Just getting all those loose/floppy pieces back in place and back in the frame.
Word of warning. Some pieces are easy to get out. Some are not. Some fall off other bigger assemblies easier than you'd believe till they fall on the towel/table/bench. Then it's a fight to keep them in place while you get that assembly back in the frame.
The grip safety pin is easy to drive out and nothing about the grip safety itself was hard to get out or in (not quite true for the metal piece the grip safety activates).
Grip safety (spring stayed on no problem), grip safety pin (short pin), take down lever (drove out easily with a couple taps of the hammer on a punch), trigger housing/front rails (push pin pushed out easily, like a big M&P), rear pin for the sear housing/rear rails (small diameter long pin that was the most difficult pin to pound out). I was hoping to get the sear housing out without removing the trigger housing (like you can do on a big M&P but that didn't work). The trigger housing lifted out easily. The sear housing was a PITB to twist, pry, pull out. Reasons (one) later.
The post in the back of the frame is what the spring on the grip safety fits over. Notice the little T notch in the plastic under the grip safety slot? That's part of the issue getting the trigger housing out and back in. There's an upside down T on the back/bottom of the sear housing that has to go into the slot on the grip safety side that makes it hard to orient the sear housing correctly while keeping the loose parts on the side of it in place. Take a thin bladed common screw driver and pry up just enough to get the T to rise up from the slots so you can get the sear housing out of the frame.
Grip safety with the shiny piece of metal you see on the left side of the trigger housing that is activated by the grip safety. The little slot on the left top side of the grip safety is where the bottom tip of the metal piece fits. The grip safety went back in last to allow the metal piece to flop around some when installing the sear housing. Just be sure to get the metal leg/tab down in the frame slot for the grip safety.
The small piece with the spring on it sits in a slot inside the right side of the frame and falls out easily once the sear housing is out. The shiny metal piece is the arm the grip safety moves. The black metal piece is on the right side of the sear housing and is the piece that lifts the firing pin block upwards when the trigger is pulled. The grip safety piece and the black piece fall off the sear housing easily and the grip safety piece is difficult to hold in place while getting the sear housing back in the frame. The spring piece can also fall out of the frame while trying to get the sear housing back in. At some point, once you get the sear housing in far enough the frame holds the parts in place. A big problem is trying to get the sear housing aligned to slide into place can result in those parts getting out of alignment or just falling out again.
See the two holes in the grip safety piece? Both will fit over the pin it hangs off of on the left side of the sear housing but it has to use the bottom hole to fit/work correctly. See the round pin on the front of the black piece? It fits into the slot you see in the trigger bar. The two arms on the rear of the black piece fit/align so that the top one is above the right side safety lever arm. I have no idea how the non thumb safety Equalizers look inside. Like I said, both of these pieces will fall off/get out of alignment when trying to get the sear housing back in place. The grip safety piece is the worst of the two.
Slide lock lever. Easily falls off the trigger housing while you pull the trigger housing out of the frame. While the spring on the trigger housing mostly stays in place be careful of it. It did fall off on me once. The tip on the front side of the spring you see curled outwards fits into the slot on the front of the slide lock lever. Another piece (slide lock lever) you have to hold onto just right when putting the trigger housing back in the frame.
Trigger housing. See the pin in the trigger? It'll fall right out if you turn the housing over and the trigger bar falls right out, too, without the pin in place to hold it. Easy to see the little bent tip on the coil spring that fits into the slide lock lever when you put the slide lock lever on the pin on the housing.
Trigger housing with the slide lock lever in place. Not nearly as hard to keep in place while partially inserting the trigger housing into the frame as the parts on the sear housing, but be aware of it.
That small piece with the spring on it that pushes against the bottom front of the black piece that goes on the right side of the trigger housing. You can see it in the slot if fits into on the right side of the frame.
Bottom side of the sear housing showing that T that fits into the slots in the back of the frame to help holt the sear housing in place.
Left side of the sear housing. You can see the safety and the two small holes on the left side. These are the holes (larger in diameter on the back side/inside) that the detent pushes against to hold the safety in position (safe or fire). Beware that spring and detent you can't really see. Twice, while moving the sear housing trying to get it lined up the safety moved enough to allow that spring to launch the detent. Easily found it the first time (landed on the light used to help me see) and it took a while the second time (several attempts) to find (on the table but under a center piece in the middle of the table.) Almost lost it a third time when the safety moved but not enough to let it fly.
See the shiny post? That's what the grip safety metal piece sits on and easily falls off of.
I did not even attempt to take the sear housing apart to polish any parts. Spring and pins, etc. I figured I might never get back together correctly.
This is as close as I could get the sear housing in several times before it "miraculously" slid into place on tle "last" attempt. I'd try to get it in, wiggle it, push, twist, pull, etc. (why I lost the safety detent twice and almost a third time) with uncounted times the grip safety piece fell out of place and the right side black metal piece got out of alignment.
As I think I said, I wouldn't recommend taking it apart to polish the rough edges off. I'd rather get into a sear housing on a CZ75B, Omega series CZ, full sized M&P, Colt 1911, S&W revolvers, etc., etc., etc. than take this thing apart again to the point I did, let alone far enough to do the polishing work I set out to do.
If you do it, I hope it goes smoother for you than it did for me.
Bad enough to be fighting the parts, worse to get grease on stuff in the kitchen. Didn't need my wife asking me why I made a bigger/dirtier mess.
