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Discussion Starter #1
Okay its time to replace my recoil spring. What company and weight should I go with for maximum reliability? How will I know besides reliable feed and ejection that a given spring rate is good with my particular gun (ejection pattern? or is that more to do with the extractor tension?)



Also, tungsten guide rods, whats the dilly'o? Why would one purchase one of these over stainless steel or the regular plain jane unit from S&W?



This is for my carry gun, not a race gun. If there is advantages to different spring weights (more reliable, ect) and a heavier guide rod (less muzzle rise?) I'm willing to install them, but I need a rock solid reliable set up.



Thanks in advance guys
 

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Part of your question depends upon what guide rod system you now have. The original design was a captive spring, the guide rod and spring were replaced as a unit. The guide rod design has been changed to a 2 piece so that only the spring can be changed if desired.



Take the easy way: buy factory replacement. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.



BTW, on the extra power springs- TANSTAAFL. You may slightly reduce the impact of the slide in recoil, the extra oomph going into battery costs. There was a thread on this on the Amback Forum some time back where I looked up the relative loads on a 1911 slide....something like 750 G's in recoil/850+ G's going into battery. And you want to add to the forces on the slide going into battery????????



The value of the extra weight of the tungsten guide rod is reduced by the very low bore axis on the M&P series. Save your money.
 

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:roll: Exactly! Just do the basic test to make sure it is still good and you don't need to replace. If you do need to replace, skip the fancy stuff and go with a stock captive. If you want to play with spring weights, you will need to go with a SSS in my opinion( M&P Store). Only reason to change spring weight is to match it to your own custom loads i.e. competition shooting. Tung. guide rods are not something you will want in a carry piece, JMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Because the gun has 5k+- rounds through it and it feels significantly easier (maybe 1/2-3/5) the spring pressure it had originally? Doesn't the manual call for the recoil spring being replaced at 5k rounds? I don't have a manual right here in front of me as im away on orders, but the PM would be wise since its a carry piece...



To answer the previous question, I have the original captive guide rod which is one piece. So a new rod is in my future.



Why the hostility to changing springs (not the weights but the springs themselves)?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, what is the purpose for a tungsten guide rod? Its a non dynamic piece, and it weighs more, its just to add weight to the muzzle end of your weapon to help counter recoil right? How could one go wrong with such a thing? Prone to corrosion, brittle? What?
 

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No hostility from me. I was just wondering why it was time and if you were having problems. If your slide is returning to battery as it should there's really no need to change it. 5k is not that many rounds. But you certainly can do the PM if you want. FWIW, the S&W rep who conducted our M&P armorer class told us to ignore the factory's recommendation about when to change the recoil spring as it was just another CYA thing on their part.
 

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One advantage of a plastic pistol for carry is the weight reduction.

Adding the tungsten guide rod adds additional weight which is what alot of people are trying to get rid of in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If the spring feels like it has lost almost 1/2 of its given weight, wouldn't it be time? Don't you risk either having the extractor claw slipping off a case rim due to too low of a dwell time or even pulling a case rim off? Also, aren't you unnecessarily beating the hell out of the frame rails?
 

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ClosetCaseNerd said:
If the spring feels like it has lost almost 1/2 of its given weight, wouldn't it be time? Don't you risk either having the extractor claw slipping off a case rim due to too low of a dwell time or even pulling a case rim off? Also, aren't you unnecessarily beating the hell out of the frame rails?
Those examples are "what ifs" and not necessarily likely as far as I'm concerned, but like I said, you can do the PM if you want.
 

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Purchase a new one and if it makes a significant difference throw the old one away. If it doesn't make a difference you have a spare. Use the old one till you can detect a difference.



I have 2 M&P's that are at or approaching the 5K mark. I have started laying in a spares kit but will not change things till it apears necessary.



:twisted:
 

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Another thing to consider is that many pistols come oversprung and will lighten up with use. This is not necessarily a bad thing, as when they lighten up, the muzzle will not dip on its own when the slide returns to battery.
 

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If the gun returns to battery and no problems, why replace? Sounds like you "want" to and that is fine. Have fun!
 

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fwiw, I have the tungsten and stock ones, and the tungsten does reduce the muzzle flip, with the added weight, but not that much.



IMO, go stock unless you are looking to customize away. I sand blasted the slide on my .40 and wanted the guide rod to match, I did not like the black sticking out.....



that was my main purpose.



yours may be different. If you want to though, go with Wolff. They have been in business forever and all they really do is springs.
 
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