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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to this, and have no idea how difficult it is to install new sights. What stuff do I need to buy?
 

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Well, the rear sight takes an allan wrench and a brass or plastic punch. Simply loosen the allen head screw and tap out w/ punch and hammer from left to right (torward ejection side.) When you are about 2/3 of the way off you will see a cap that covers the spring for the stricker safety. Make sure you "catch" the cap and spring before they launch!! The front sight takes a brass or aluminum punch and a big f*&^ing hammer. Secure in a "SOLID" vise and tape up around the sight so if the punch jumps it doesn't scratch. It will take 1 or 2 VERY VERY HARD blows to break it loose, then it should just tap out. Insert new sights in opposite order, in from the ejection side (right to left).



GOOD LUCK!!
 

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I recently had a gunsmith put switch my factory sights out with night sights. After seeing this post, I went back and looked at both sets of sights. It appears (due to the brass residue that I assume is from the punch he used) that the sights were removed and put on from right to left. That is, the brass marks are on the ejection port side on BOTH sets of sights. The gun is a 40c.



I assume the left to right removal instructions are for all M&Ps. Since I haven't been to the range to shoot after getting the new sights on, I have to ask....could this have screwed up the sights/dovetails in slide? I tried to look in the exposed portions of the doevetails on the slide and it doesn't seem like there is any scuffing or removed material and the sights don't seem to be loose (although I did not try loosening the rear sight screw to see if it is loose).



I'm just wondering if I should watch for sight movement when firing my gun?
 

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coltman1985 said:
Well, the rear sight takes an allan wrench and a brass or plastic punch. Simply loosen the allen head screw and tap out w/ punch and hammer from left to right (torward ejection side.) When you are about 2/3 of the way off you will see a cap that covers the spring for the stricker safety. Make sure you "catch" the cap and spring before they launch!! The front sight takes a brass or aluminum punch and a big f*&^ing hammer. Secure in a "SOLID" vise and tape up around the sight so if the punch jumps it doesn't scratch. It will take 1 or 2 VERY VERY HARD blows to break it loose, then it should just tap out. Insert new sights in opposite order, in from the ejection side (right to left).



GOOD LUCK!!


How do you "catch" the cap and spring before they launch? Thanks. I just ordered a Burwell rear sight and I intend to install myself.
 

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I went to the range today and they put put my new Trijicon sights on my 40c and 40 fullsize. Yhey actually had to take a file to the front ones to get them on. I guess the other brands make the sights out of softer metal than the slide so there is some give putting them on. With trijicon they are harder and dont give
It took them an hour to get both sets on, but it was a free service
But i am going back tomorrow with beer
 

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Aceq2jot said:
I went to the range today and they put put my new Trijicon sights on my 40c and 40 fullsize. Yhey actually had to take a file to the front ones to get them on. I guess the other brands make the sights out of softer metal than the slide so there is some give putting them on. With trijicon they are harder and dont give
It took them an hour to get both sets on, but it was a free service
But i am going back tomorrow with beer


Trying to site any weapon with beer is a b ad idea
 

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Thought of this thread when I ran across this:

Sight Adjustment Tips

http://home.kc.rr.com/mashbill/



The first thing to commit to memory is “FORS”. This stands for “Front Opposite, Rear Same”. So, when you want to move the point of impact, you move the front sight in the OPPOSITE direction (i.e. if the gun shoots low, move the sight DOWN, opposite from the point of impact desired).



Use a brass drift, and lay the pistol on a piece of carpet or several doubled shop rags and gently tap the slide. More often than not, you'll find that you'll have to abandon “gently” and give it a “real” adjustment (i.e. a bigger hammer and more muscle.) FORS holds true for windage as well, so if you're pistol is shooting to the right, you want to change the point-of-aim (POI) to the left, thus (“Rear Same”) you'll want to move the rear sight to the LEFT.



You can calculate the amount you need to move the sights by the following:



Multiply the sight radius (in inches) by the number of inches of impact movement, divided by distance to the target in inches.



Example #1: A rifle with an 18” sight radius shooting 6” high at 100 yards yields (18”x6”)/(100 yards x (36”/yard))=0.030” requiring you to RAISE (“Front Opposite”) of 0.030” to achieve 6” at 100 yards. Conversely, you could LOWER the rear sight by the same amount to accomplish the 6” movement.



Example #2: Colt 1911 with a 7” sight radius shooting 2” low at 10 yards yields (7”x2”)/(10 yards x (36”/yard)) = 0.0389”, requiring you to raise the rear sight or lower the front sight by this amount.



Example #3: Colt Commander with a 5.5” sight radius shooting 3” low at 7 yards (7 yards = 252”) yields (5.5” x 3”)/252” = 0.0655”, requiring you to raise the rear sight or lower the front sight by this amount.
 

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Aceq2jot said:
I went to the range today and they put put my new Trijicon sights on my 40c and 40 fullsize. Yhey actually had to take a file to the front ones to get them on. I guess the other brands make the sights out of softer metal than the slide so there is some give putting them on. With trijicon they are harder and dont give
It took them an hour to get both sets on, but it was a free service
But i am going back tomorrow with beer


I also had to do some filing on the Trijicon front sight for my Springfield XD. Not unusual. The secret is to go slow, taking off a hair off at a time, re-insert in the dovetail, bang, still won't go? Repeat the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I took my factory rear off yesterday, after removing the screw, I was able to push it out with my finger...but the Warren rear would barely even get started, much less go on. I guess I'll just have to take it to someone.
 
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