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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 5" M & P 9 M2.0 Pro Series Performance Center C.O.R.E. model without the ported barrel and I was unhappy with the trigger take up and gritty feel of the factory hinged trigger. I watched several install videos and had all the appropriate tools to perform this install myself, and I did it, Put in the Ultimate Striker Block and spring, and all the relevant trigger parts and replacement. (Went with the exact set up as "Hammer Strikers youtube video) Took several hours because I am methodical and didn't want to force anything....the little yellow slave pin when reinstalling the flanged trigger pin was fun to say the least, the spring kept not getting engaged by the real pin so had to do that several times, but otherwise went pretty well.

The hardest part was getting the trigger bar back onto the new Apex trigger shoe....they(Apex) had the pin protruding too far out to just "catch" the trigger bar, but I kept moving the pin with my punch too far one way or the other....took me about 20 minutes to get it to its "sweet spot" to "catch" the trigger bar just enough to then seat the pin sub flush properly to continue.....AAAAHHHH.

My question is this....with my old trigger, I could dry fire the gun, and with the trigger still held back towards the grip, I could rack the slide and feel the trigger "reset" upon release of the trigger after the rack. Now, when I do that, the trigger doesn't "reset" with the shoe held back against the grip....it needs just a slight push with the tiniest amount of force to be able to hear the "audible reset". The gun cycles fine at the range...just put about 75 rounds of 115 FMJ through it, and if I am dry firing and let the trigger all the way back out after "ghost" firing, it will work, it's just when I try to hold the trigger in the squeezed position after the dry fire and try to hear the reset that it needs the slightest of nudges....any thing to be worried about? Will it "groove in" over time? The trigger feels great and it is an adjustment because of the shape but I will adjust and I do think it was well worth the switchout. I went with the lowest pull weight, which ends up at about 3.5 to 4 pounds. It feels lighter, but definitely safe and manageable.

Thanks in adavance.

SB
 

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The striker block is moved upwards by the tall triangular pointed piece on the right side of the trigger bar.

The sear is moved by the tear drop shape loop on the left side of the trigger bar.

The sear will release the striker no matter where the striker block is in its range of positions. However, if the sear releases the striker before the striker block is fully raised then the striker hits the striker block, is slowed down as it forces it's way past the striker block and may not have enough energy to set off the primer in the chambered rounds. BTDT.

Both are on the trigger bar but they do two separate things. The striker safety must be moved upwards to allow the striker to pass by and hit the primer hard enough to set it off.

If you have that problem APEX has some good videos on their web site and at least one of them will explain what needs to be adjusted and how to do it and test it.

My 1.0 .40 FS had issues (timing issues they are called) years ago. I had it adjusted so that it worked great (350 rounds without a failure vs. 2 or 3 from every magazine.) Then I put an Apex trigger in it to replace the hinged factory trigger. Got back into failures to fire. I think that trigger may have affected it a little, or me bending/twisting the trigger bar getting it in/out? Or maybe it was just borderline years ago. Gotta get back to the range to see if the little adjustment to the trigger bar loop took care of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No failures to fire at all and it feels good at the range when cycling. That being said, I haven't held the trigger back against the grip after firing a live round and seen if it will reset well after firing from a time standpoint...in other words to try to feel the "audible reset" releasing the trigger slowly after firing the live round. .I will try that next time at the range.

Thanks for the communication on this topic.

SB
 

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I have a 4.25" M & P 9 M2.0 Pro Series Performance Center C.O.R.E. model 11826 without the ported barrel. I have no grit in my trigger and has an excellent light clean break and extremely short reset. My issue is with the long pre-travel and the curved trigger. My trigger break occurs when the trigger is pulled almost all the way back. With the curved trigger my finger ends up past the pad of my finger and at the joint. None of my other pistols are like this including my 2.0 Shield. I don't want to go the Apex route but would like to replace the trigger shoe. Apex makes trigger shoes but have read conflicting info on whether you can just replace the shoe.
 
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