Just ordered an 11832 (.40 S&W, PC, CORE, 4&1/4: barrel, ported)

Got the call around 3 PM today. Drove over and picked it up.

Have not, yet, cleaned/lubed it yet. I have been taking it apart, looking it over and so far I can say:

It's pretty.

I installed the small backstrap for the best feeling/fit to my hand.

I can easily release the slide from locked back with the left side slide release and my right thumb. Not so with the right side slide release and left thumb. Won't budge. I'm right handed anyway.

This M&P has the tightest fit between the barrel and slide of any I've bought so far. With the slide off the frame, no recoil spring/guide in the slide, the barrel will stay in the firing position unless you jiggle the slide. Nice tight fit.

I can't seen any slide movement with the trigger is pulled (dry firing). I can push the slide to the left all the way, dry fire it and the slide doesn't move towards the other side. Same if the slide is all the way to the right side.

There is more side to side movement at the front rails/slide than at the rear.

This PC pistol has a lighter trigger than my 1.0 9MM but the trigger pull is not as crisp and the reset is not as tight/precise as the older 1.0. When you pull the trigger on the 2.0 PC .40 the trigger bumps to a stop. Pull some more and it move rearwards so more and stops again. The second time it stops when you pull the trigger it will release the striker. If you hold the trigger back, rack the slide, slowly ride the trigger forward till you hear/feel the sear/striker reset then there is noticeable rear trigger movement to release the striker for the next dry fire/shot. The 1.0 trigger pulls to the rear and stops. When you apply enough force to get it to move again it releases the striker. Very crisp, just heavy. On reset once you feel the sear/striker reset and stop forward trigger movement when you apply rearward force to the trigger it releases the striker for the next shot with no visible rearward travel before the release (most/best M&P stock trigger for that I've had/shot - only the Apex triggers are as good on my other 2.0's).

I cannot tell if the striker has the 10 degree angle on it or not. It not I've got one in the parts tray since I ordered a spare awhile back, but I want to measure the trigger pull and shoot it as is first, before replacing the striker.

The striker block has that nice rounded bevel to the outer edges like the 9MM PC pistol and the Apex striker blocks I've bought in the past.

Left side view



Left side view, slide locked back. Easy to see the port on the left side of the barrel and the three ports on the left side of the slide.



Green painted recoil spring.



Easy to see the rounded edges of the striker block.



Barrel sitting in the slide without dropping down. As I said up top, never had one that tight before. Surprised me. Hope it points to a greater chance of nice groups.



Different angle of the same thing.



I was really hoping to go to the range tomorrow but I did something today and pinched a nerve in my back. Been pretty painful, off and on, all day. Sitting here now with two tylenol in me and a heating pad on my back. The stupid thing right at the moment the pain stabbed me in the back was picking up a toothbrush with toothpaste on it to start brushing my teeth. No idea what I'd done previously to get the ball rolling.

I looked for my left over ammo (from the FNS adventures a few years back)and cannot find any of the factory ammo. Put some reloads in a range bag in case I do feel like running over to the range tomorrow.

Shot it a little today.

Didn't take the CZ P07 .40. Trying to get everything I needed for the M&P and airheadedness (is that a word?) I walked out of the house without the P07. Only had two guns with me, the new FS 2.0 .40 PC pistol and my old Shield 9MM. In the end, I don't think I really needed the P07 as I'm pretty happy with the new .40.

I took six different kinds of ammo:
135 grain Nosler HPs my CZ's like - and forgot I had some in my pants pocket. So I didn't shoot any of it.
180 grain Winchester hollow points - Shoot pretty darn good in the new pistol. My 5" FNS .40 likes this ammo, too. The P07/P09 pistols don't shoot it well.
180 grain reloads Roze Dist. hollow points with Bullseye powder at two different charge weights. Waste of bullets/powder.
180 grain reloads Roze Dist. hollow points with Blue Dot powder. Did pretty good with this but I only shot one of the five charge weights (the lowest one) I brought with me.
180 grain reloads Roze Dist. hollow points with Unique powder. Same bullets, but seated shorter (don't know why, need to go look it up in my logbook) and they would not feed in the M&P. I'd get a nose up jam as they fed from the magazine to the chamber. Tried several times, just gave up.

Between the forgotten pistol/ammo and injuring my trigger finger right at the start it was not the day it could have been. I was trying to get the multi tool open for a screw driver blade to adjust the screws on the Holoson and pinched the blood out of my trigger finger a little past the last joint. I'm on blood thinners for Factor V Leiden and I sucked blood, I applied pressure, sucked more blood, wiped blood inside my right pants pocket, smeared blood on the trigger and pistol frame and it finally stopped bleeding but never stopped hurting. Tried to get pictures of the blood on the pistol frame when I got home. I could see the discolored spots but they didn't show up in the pictures. Oh well.

I do have pictures of the targets. All groups shot at 7 yds.

Win. 180 grain hollow points. First target. First time I've fired the pistol. First round it that hole above the 10 on the left. After that everything moved slightly to the right.

.

Ten shots with the 180 grain hollow points loaded with Bullseye powder.



Ten shots with the 180 grain bullets using a different charge weight of Bullseye powder.



Five shots with the 180 grain bullets using Blue Dot powder at the lowest charge level.



Next trip I'll shoot up the rest of the ammo loaded with Blue Dot and see if there's more potential there.

Other than the failure to feed with the 180 grain hollow points loaded with Unique powder (overall length issue, too short I believe) the pistol was 100% perfect.

Hard to tell about the muzzle rise though. I didn't not think recoil was bad at all but without either the P07 .40 or the FNS Long Slide it's tough to say for sure.

Me after that first group and that last group.

Oh, forgot to add. I swapped the Holoson off the 1.0 9MM 5" PC pistol to the new .40.

The metal plates that came with the 1.0 pistols (the #1 is for the RMR/Holosun sights) drop right into the 2.0 slide. I don't know if S&W will sell a set of metal plates for the 1.0 pistols or not. Also, the 2.0 comes with several more plates than the 1.0 models did (more dot type sights out there now with varying footprints?)

The #1 plate (plastic) that came with the 2.0 would not "drop in" on the slide. It had to be bent/forced into place. I didn't like that and took it back out. Got some good light and I could see the rear of the adaptor plate had plastic sticking off of it (like a piece for a model airplane or car that you didn't trim loose from the "tree" quite right/smoothly enough. I got my pocket knife out and cut that little "tab" piece off and then scraped the rear a few times with the blade at about 90 degrees to the back edge of the plate and it dropped right in.

This is the 3rd or 4th red dot equipped pistol I've done a rough sight in of the red dot by adjusting it so it's just above the top of the front sight with the back up sights aligned like you were going to shoot the pistol. On this one, after adjustment, it was dead on and no further adjustments were done. The Winchester 180 grain hollow points and the 180 grain hollow points loaded with Blue Dot powder were perfect at 7 yds.

Loaded up some magazines with the Winchester 180 grain hollow points.

Added +2 bases to 5 of them. Getting 16 rounds in the magazine was easy with the Uplula loader. Getting the 17th round may have been possible but I elected not to possibly break something (the loader or the base) when a couple attempts failed.

I remembered, when I added the +2 bases to the 17 round 9MM magazines I had 2 or 3 that would no longer move the slide lock up enough to lock the slide back after the last round. The .40 mags are about as old as those 9MM mags. so I went ahead and ordered a 10 pack of 9/40 +10% strength magazine springs from Wolff Springs. Those springs corrected the problem with the 9MM magazines. Just in case.

You know what a good deal is? For me, quite often, it turns into way more money spent than the good deal cost me. I'm sure not everyone buys all the stuff I buy to go along with a new gun. Great deal on the pistol at $545 plus shipping and transfer fee. Safety/spring/detent added to the cost. A new "red" dot at some point. A new concealed carry holster at some point (I'll carry it around the property for awhile = open carry, before carrying it concealed=new IWB holster). Can't think of anything else at the moment, but I'll bet I will at some point.

Already had magazines (from the 1.0 .40). Already had the open carry holster (from the 1.0 .40 and 9MM). Already have a light, if I go that route (may have to buy a light to get the IWB holster I want). Already have mag. pouches for open and/or concealed carry. Already have spare parts.

It's not a destination, it's a journey.

That's what I meant. I'm agreeing with you about likeing/using safeties.

Just saying that something about your grip or the recoil, or even how easy the safety moves is causing you a problem. One of my 1.0's, don't remember if it was the 9MM or the .40 had a thumb safety that was way to easy to move. Here (years ago on this forum) other people commented about having a similar issue and some of them had removed the thumb safety and filed the notches the detent in the sear block catches in to hold the safety in position a little deeper and also made the transition "point" or hump a little sharper. Both actions make moving the safety require more force/effort. You'd have to be careful not to go too deep or file on the wrong side to change that angle, but it worked for me (took two tries if I remember correctly, but that was about 14 or 15 years ago.

Not suggesting you do it to keep the safety. Just mentioning you're not the only one and sometimes it's the way the safety lever/metal and the detent engage that can make the movement of the safety easier on some pistols.

On a "safety" note (no pun intended) I've had two of mine (the 1.0 9MM came with the safety from the factory) and the 9MM PC (did not have the safety - but I installed one) had problems with the safety to trigger bar engagement. The 1.0 I bought first was okay for a couple years and then had the problem. The 9MM PC had it from the moment I added the safety, spring and detent.

The problem was with the safety in the SAFE position if you pulled the trigger the trigger bar would bump up against the safety arm on the right side of the frame and then twist up and go over it, allowing the sear to release the striker. I discovered it, on the firsts 1.0 after a cleaning session. I always clean them up, lube them, put them together and test the function of the safety, trigger and slide release (goes back to the 1911 days/ways). One day, the old 1.0 9MM released the striker when the safety was on. Surprised and scared me because I wasn't sure just how long I'd used it/carried it since the last cleaning and after cleaning function test. Had to bend the right side safety lever arm upwards a bit to get it high enough that the trigger bar would no longer ride up over it and release the striker. On the 9MM PC pistol I found it right away after installation. Had to bend the safety lever arm on it, too, but not quite so much as the older pistol.

You can bet I'll keep an eye on the new 2.0 .40 PC. Oh, the 2.0 9MM and the 2.0 .45 have not had any issues like that.