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Just ordered an 11832 (.40 S&W, PC, CORE, 4&1/4: barrel, ported)

2076 Views 29 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  M1A4ME
The ad description is:

Smith & Wesson (S&W) M&P 2.0, Performance Center C.O.R.E., Striker Fired, Semi-automatic, Polymer Frame Pistol, Full Size, 40S&W, 4.25" Ported Barrel, Armornite Finish, Black, Interchangeable Back Straps, Suppressor Sights, No Thumb Safety, 15 Rounds, Optics Ready Slide, C.O.R.E Mounting Plates, Performance Center Tuned Action, Cleaning Kit, 2 Magazines

Couldn't find a single 5" for sale looking on line. Great price on this one at $545 (or at least I thought it was great price considering what it is and the options it has) Has the two piece trigger but I really don't mind those.

Found 3 places with the 4&1/4" barrel/slide models.

Pictures when I get it and a range report as soon as possible afterwards. Somewhere I'm sure I've still got a few partial boxes of factory ammo I bought when I was trying to find something the FNS .40's would shoot well. It would be really nice if it would shoot what the CZs eat all the time (135 grain Nosler hollow points and 140 grain Missouri Bullet Co. coated lead flat nosed bullets.)

I'll need to get dot sight for it at some point.
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That's what I meant. I'm agreeing with you about likeing/using safeties.

Just saying that something about your grip or the recoil, or even how easy the safety moves is causing you a problem. One of my 1.0's, don't remember if it was the 9MM or the .40 had a thumb safety that was way to easy to move. Here (years ago on this forum) other people commented about having a similar issue and some of them had removed the thumb safety and filed the notches the detent in the sear block catches in to hold the safety in position a little deeper and also made the transition "point" or hump a little sharper. Both actions make moving the safety require more force/effort. You'd have to be careful not to go too deep or file on the wrong side to change that angle, but it worked for me (took two tries if I remember correctly, but that was about 14 or 15 years ago.

Not suggesting you do it to keep the safety. Just mentioning you're not the only one and sometimes it's the way the safety lever/metal and the detent engage that can make the movement of the safety easier on some pistols.

On a "safety" note (no pun intended) I've had two of mine (the 1.0 9MM came with the safety from the factory) and the 9MM PC (did not have the safety - but I installed one) had problems with the safety to trigger bar engagement. The 1.0 I bought first was okay for a couple years and then had the problem. The 9MM PC had it from the moment I added the safety, spring and detent.

The problem was with the safety in the SAFE position if you pulled the trigger the trigger bar would bump up against the safety arm on the right side of the frame and then twist up and go over it, allowing the sear to release the striker. I discovered it, on the firsts 1.0 after a cleaning session. I always clean them up, lube them, put them together and test the function of the safety, trigger and slide release (goes back to the 1911 days/ways). One day, the old 1.0 9MM released the striker when the safety was on. Surprised and scared me because I wasn't sure just how long I'd used it/carried it since the last cleaning and after cleaning function test. Had to bend the right side safety lever arm upwards a bit to get it high enough that the trigger bar would no longer ride up over it and release the striker. On the 9MM PC pistol I found it right away after installation. Had to bend the safety lever arm on it, too, but not quite so much as the older pistol.

You can bet I'll keep an eye on the new 2.0 .40 PC. Oh, the 2.0 9MM and the 2.0 .45 have not had any issues like that.
Roger that. I appreciate the insight. I may look into filing the plastic down a little just to make it harder to engage, but other than that we shall see. I prefer the safety, I do have little ones at the house, but it’s stays in my beside safe for now
Nice! I really want to try out a ported barrel one of these days. Haven't had the opportunity yet! Did just order a Comp though for my M&P 1.0 Pro 9mm!
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I didn't feel the need for a ported barrel pistol till I shot my 1.0 5" 9MM PC gun. That showed me the porting worked. So I figured I'd get a PC pistol in .40 and see how the ports do with it. I think they work.
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I mentioned the failure to lock the slide back issues on the 9MM 17 round mags with the +2 bases awhile back.

Got those new Wolf +10% power mag. springs and put them in the 5 mags. with the +2 bases.

Removed the first 3 original mag. springs and laid them out to compare to a new spring. Not much difference, not as much as I saw with the 9MM springs.

One of the five had a really "strong" twist to it. Does it mean the spring was weak? Does it mean the spring was twisted when it was put in at the factory? Can't help but believe it also caused some extra friction as it rubbed the inside of the magazine when loaded and when pushing rounds up to the top of the magazine.

Spring on the left. Bottoms are aligned, top of that one is twisted almost 90 degrees around. I don't recall ever seeing a mag. spring twisted like that.

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Ordered an IWB holster for it.

Blackhawk (nope, not buttons to release the pistol from the holster. Uses the indentions in the kydex that lock into the front of the trigger guard to hold the pistol in place. Also has a magazine pouch that can be attached to the front of the holster with a second belt hook.

I was afraid, after looking at the mag. pouch it might not be real comfortable. I put it on the belt, put the pistol and holster in it (seems easy to get the mag. in/out of the pouch and the holster is easier to get the pistol back into than some of my other IWB holsters. Big issue is my regular gun belt is slightly wider than 1.5" so I've ordered a slightly narrower (1.5" wide) gun belt.

It's on the old belt and locked into place and I do mean locked. Couldn't slide it either way on the belt without just spinning the belt in the belt loops.

This is the box/name.

Picture of it from the outside of the pants.

Picture of it from the inside of the pants.

After a couple more range sessions with the new M&P I'll carry it some to see how this works after a few hours. Sitting on the couch or at the kitchen table isn't a real test.
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Just got my belt. From Relentless Tactical. Ultimate Concealed Carry Gun Belt, black, 14 oz leather, 1.5" wide. The belt was just under $70 off Amazon and you can register it for Relentless Tactical's lifetime guarantee. Hopefully I won't need it.

Link to Relentless Tactical Gun Belts

First thing I've bought from them. Hope it holds up. Prices the same on their site as on Amazon but I got it in a couple days when ordering from Amazon.

The belt will thread through the mounting pieces on the holster/mag. pouch without having to be forced like I had to do with my old belt. My old belt is a little thicker/wider and I've had issues with other holster not working on it.

This new belt might become my EDC belt for everything. We'll see how it holds up.
I own 2 performance center handguns and I just got an amail from smith and wesson they now offer the m&p 2.0 10mm in a performance center 5.6 inch ported barrel and slide. 15 rounds. Can't wait to see them in the ffl showroom....
I'd think a longer barrel would make the 10MM even more effective due to some increased velocity.
You can see a video on smith and Wesson website. It looks nice,and I have become partial to the Performance Center handguns they shoot very well.
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Carried it in the new holster for the second time today. Around 4 hrs. of driving and sitting in the car while my wife shopped in different stores.

Never posted about the first time. Same thing, mostly sitting/driving for just a short period moving some furniture in my truck. Had one issue, I think my fault. When I got home the holster belt clip had raised up off the belt. My usual carry (P07 .40 in a LAG Tactical IWB holster) has some forward cant. I kept trying to push the M&P .40 to the same angle and think I pushed it off the belt.

Today, almost as soon as I put it on, the magazine was in my lower ribs and soft skin right under it. Had me wondering how long that would last. As it turned out, I guess I got used to it and didn't notice it the rest of the time I was wearing it. So no problem with that. It also didn't come off the belt on the holster belt clip this time but I kept reminding myself not to try to push the top of the pistol forward.

Another issue I had the other day was I could not seem to get the belt quite tight enough. That let the pistol/holster side of my pants sag down and I had to adjust it a few times (pick it upwards.) Today, when I put it on I still couldn't get it tight enough. Kept trying to get the belt in that last notch. Finally stopped long enough to look at it and the darn thing was in the last notch. Gonna have to put an extra hole or two in the belt with the drill/drill bit when I get a chance. I solved that issue today by grabbing another IWB mag. pouch and carrying another .40 mag. on the left side IWB. No issues today with that second mag. pouch/mag keeping the belt plenty tight enough not to ride down on my hip on the pistol side. So today i carried the pistol (15+1), one spare mag. with 15 and one spare mag with 16 rounds in it. And two spares in a pouch in the door pocket on my side of the Coupe.

I did not put those little "wings" on the back side of the holster to help pull/push the pistol closer to my body when I put it together. Didn't think I needed them. I think I'll grab them off the table in the shed and put one of them on before I carry it again and see if it help move the frame towards me and away from my shirt.

You keep trying/adjusting till you feel good about it, or you move on to the next holster.

I need to get it back to the range. Messed my left knee up the other day (I think running the tiller got it started and then climbing up.down to the upper deck on the big mower did the rest. Driving the Coupe today (6 spd. manual transmission) really seemed to help that stiffness/soreness.
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