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Discussion Starter #1
Won't lie, the gun's been in the safe for several years. Combination of reliability and accuracy issues.

Finally got the reliability stuff figured out but a P07 beat it all to hell accuracy wise, too, and it just went to the safe.

A couple days ago I ordered a Storm Lake (oversized, file to fit) .40 S&W barrel for it. Hoping it fixes the accuracy issues as I've always like the way they fit my hands.

Oh, also ordered an Apex trigger for it. It's already got a CAEK in it, so I just wanted a non-hinged trigger to make if feel/work more like my two 2.0 M&Ps.

Got it out today, took all the magazines apart, cleaned out the insides, wiped the insides/outsides down with an oily rag and wiped down the springs, too. Put them back together.

Field stripped the pistol and looked it over in preparation for the new trigger and barrel installation next week when Midway gets my parts here.

After finding out I like the feel of the 2.0 grips that 1.0 felt odd in my hand. Might have to put a Talon grip panel set on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Got my new Safari Land drop leg holster today. The description stated it was for the 9MM and .40 S&W full sized pistols only.

The new 2.0 .45 Compact (10 shot model - full sized frame with a 4" slide/barrel) was closest so I grabbed it and the darn thing slide right in, no hang up/force required at all.

I'm going to have to try the .40 and the 9 and see if they are loose/sloppy.

Safariland 7304 7TS ALS Tactical S&W M&P 9mm .40 4.25" Holster, Plain Black, Right Hand.

I thought the .45's were bigger pistols.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The full sized .40 fits it like it was made for it. I'm a lucky guy. The new holster fits all the M&Ps I have except the 5" FDE with the threaded barrel (Apex barrel).

I don't need to buy more holsters (for the M&Ps).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Storm Lake barrel came in yesterday.

I grabbed the envelope, carried it out to the shed, cleared a spot on the bench and eagerly opened up the gun tool box in preparation for fitting the new .40 S&W barrel into the M&P FS slide.

Nope, dropped right in, rattled around like the original barrel. I can push it forwards (leaves a gap at the breech face), push it rearwards (leaves a gap up front between the barrel hood and slide) and wobble it left/right in the slide at the chamber area.

Put the recoil spring/guide on it, put it on the slide and the forwards/rearwards play seems to disappear (recoil spring) but I can still push it left/right with my thumb. I'll just have to go to the range to shoot it.

One thing, I have some test loads for the FNS .40 with 180 grain hollow points and two different powders. I plunk tested them in the FNS barrel and they were fine. Just for grins/giggles I removed the new Storm Lake barrel from the slide and tried them in it and the sort of drag going into the chamber. They will push in fine with my finger/thumb, but part of the way into the chamber the case mouth (I believe) begins to drag on the chamber walls. Once I push the round all the way in I can grab the rim and spin it around easily and I can pull it out of the chamber easily. I'll just have to remember the Storm Lake barrel is a little tighter inside than the FNS or P07 barrels and give the cases just a tad more crimp to see if that takes care of the issue.

Now, the Apex trigger was a bit more trouble.

I've had the rails/parts out of 5 M&Ps now. Apex parts installed in four of them. I've never run across a frame that had the front (or back) rails in so tight. They'd move up an 1/8" or so and hang. Prying with a screw driver blade till I was scared of gouging up the frame would not complete the removal. The rail section would move back down easily with some thumb pressure but pop up part way (not the whole 1/8" but you could see it raise up) when I let up on it. Pry again, no luck, push down, it would pop up, repeated that 3 or 4 times before it suddenly moved up far enough I could pull it all the way out.

Then had more trouble getting the Apex trigger and the factory trigger bar back in place in the frame rail and getting the darn thing pushed back down into position. The spring that holds the take down lever in kept moving out of place, the trigger bar didn't want to move down as low as it would with the factory trigger in it.

Finally got it in, had a little bit of an issue getting the trigger pin aligned (thank goodness for the Apex slave pin they include with the trigger) and in place.

At first, the pistol wasn't operating - pulling the trigger would not release the striker (I thought). Some more fiddling with it and I noticed the sear wasn't raising up enough to catch the dog leg on the striker. Not sure why the striker was stuck in the "fired" position but after pushing/shoving/pulling on it some it popped up and has worked since through some dry firing yesterday, last night and again this morning.

I like the way the trigger feels on my finger. I like the way the trigger pull itself feels. I'm feeling good about how steady the front sight is when I'm dry firing. Now, just gotta get to the range with it.

For what it's worth, the Apex 9MM barrel I installed in the 2.0 5" FDE had to have some metal removed from the rear of the barrel hood to get it to move up into position and lock up. That barrel improved the groups in that pistol.

The couple of barrels I've bought from CZ (replaced the barrels in a Pre B CZ85 and a Tactical Sport .40) both had to be fit to the slide as well. I was just hoping the Storm Lake barrel would be tighter/require some fitting as experience with the other three barrels shows the groups shrink when the barrel and slide fit together nice and snug.
 

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Good write ups - Thanks for detailing your experience with the barrels and trigger. I use the flatty trigger in my .40 cal compact 2.0 and love it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Before I installed the barrel I did a "plunk" test with some 180 grain hollow points. Perfect.

Today I grabbed a pencil, dropped it into the empty pistol barrel, pointed it up and pulled the trigger - the pencil bounced up. Not out of the barrel like a 1911 or CZ hammer fired pistol would bounce it, but about like any of the striker fired pistols will.

So, looked like function would be fine when I go to the range.

I took the pistol out to the shed (for some reason) and was going to work up some brass for one thing or another (9MM, .40, .45, .223 brass all sitting around in jugs in various states of readiness for reloading).

And I decided to load up a magazine for the M&P with some of the 180 grain hollow points (Winchester). Locked the slide back, put the pistol on safe, inserted a magazine and hit the slide release. CRAP! Slide hung up about 3/8" from going into battery. Racked the slide back, which kicked the jammed cartridge out in the floor and let the slide go again. Same result. Slide stopped short about 3/8". Racked it again, and again and again, till I had 15 jams out of 15 attempts and 15 rounds in the floor at my feet.

Started picking up shells off the floor and all of them had a spot with about 3 rows of scratches/gouges in the brass parallel to the case mouth starting about 1/8" back from the case mouth. Like the brass hit, stopped, jumped forward just a bit, stopped and then tried one last time to move forward before stopping again for the last time.

I pulled the new Storm Lake barrel and took a good look with a bright light. I'd cleaned the barrel the other day (brush, solvent and patches) prior to the initial installation. But with a bright light I could see the chamber had a frosty look to it. Not at all shiny like I'm used to seeing in a pistol barrel chamber. Not any gouges/scratches I could see, just a dull frosty appearance.

Grabbed the Dremel, a felt wheel and some lapping compound and went to work.

Polish, polish, polish, clean, clean, clean, put it together. Better, but still getting jam every 3 or 4 rounds. Took it apart again.

Polish, polish, polish, clean, clean, clean and put it together again. Perfect. Every round hand cycled through the chamber from the magazine. I'd grabbed new rounds from the box and none of them had the little scratches/gouges in them like that first magazine of jams.

Polished the feed ramp, too, while polishing the chamber. I mostly concentrated on the top and side of the chamber and after the last cleaning I got the flashlight out again and the chamber, in the areas I polished was nice and shiny now. Only frosted look is the bottom of the chamber and the sides up near the front of the chamber.

I would have been so pissed off to load up some ammo, head to the range and have that new Storm Lake barrel cause me to not be able to fire the pistol.

Pure luck I decided to hand cycle some rounds through it today or that's what would have happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
finally got the pictures off the phone and onto the lap top.

Pistol with the round hung up while feeding. Smacking the back of the slide would not make it go forward and chamber.



Picture of the scratches near the mouth of the cases. All of them were marked the same after letting the slide attempt to chamber them.



Picture of the barrel/chamber. You can see the hazy/rough area near the front of the chamber. No, I did not take a picture after the polishing was done. Just happy it worked and put it away to wait on the next range trip.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, range trip today with some 180 grain hollow points. Two batches. One loaded with Unique and one with Bullseye.

Got through about half of the box loaded with Unique before I gave up due to failures to fire. Small dent in the primer, no bang. Run through a second time they may/may not go off. After 3 light strikes in a row I unloaded it and put it away and finished shooting the loads with the FNS .40 - which went bang every time.

Had this issue years ago with this pistol. Had it cured - shot 350 trouble free rounds through it before putting it in the safe 8 or 9 years ago.

But I installed a new Apex trigger in it a few weeks back so something's not quite right in the timing department. I'll take a look at the Apex web site videos later this evening.
 

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"Won't lie, the gun's been in the safe for several years. Combination of reliability and accuracy issues."

Installed "Storm Lake barrel, Apex trigger, using reload ammunition, Grabbed the Dremel, a felt wheel and some lapping compound and went to work; range trip today with some 180 grain hollow points. Two batches. One loaded with Unique and one with Bullseye. Got through about half of the box loaded with Unique before I gave up due to failures to fire. Small dent in the primer, no bang."

"But I installed a new Apex trigger in it a few weeks back so something's not quite right in the timing department. I'll take a look at the Apex web site videos later this evening."

8 posts over 2 months and you have contributed 7 of them.

You provide no objective data to corroborate your singular "reliability / accuracy" claims.

Please, Note-to-Self: STOP posting about your ridiculous amateur adventures attempting to gunsmith a legacy proven firearm platform.

Exactly what is your point about describing your ineptitude at working on the M&P gun ?

Caution: Pseuod-science and / or amateur photos may be embedded in this post.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, you got a chuckle out of me. Funny guy.

If sharing issues/experiences here is a bad idea that no one can benefit from, I can stop.

Then again, maybe not, if I aggravate you enough maybe you'll keep being funny,.
 

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I have a MP 2.0 in 40 cal it was a new L/E package ,night sights ,3 mags never a problem . also a MP 9 late date with all updates and also came with black PVD fact finish over the Mennonite L/E package also night sights 3 mags . never any problems with either of the two, got them new in box .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was doing some more surfing last night and this morning and ran across at least one thread (more than one pistol involved) where they had issues with light strikes and found it was a failure to go fully into battery. With the slide not fully forward it threw the timing off between striker block position and sear release.

I was having some issues yesterday that were obvious with the slide not going fully into battery. But, I may have had some not so obvious instances of the same thing without really seeing it. It's one thing to get a no fire, take my eyes/concentration off the front sight and notice the slide stopped while still hanging over the back of the frame. It's another thing to be focusing on the front sight and the slide be almost fully forward but I wouldn't see that. Just hear the click when the striker released/hit the striker block and primer. The reloads plunk tested perfect. But, when it drags on feeding/chambering it may be slowing down the slide just enough to not fully close/lock up.

That barrel wouldn't feed/chamber a single round at first (feeding from the magazine). I'm going to some more polishing before I mess with the trigger bar loop. Hopefully that's it.

I've got an old college buddy who used to work in a shop where they built custom rifles and tuned up LEO tactical rifles for SWAT teams. I've e-mailed him about barrel lapping/polishing technique/supplies.

The 2nd level of Unique powder with the 180's was somewhat promising (funny, the groups the M&P and the FNS shot were almost identical at that powder charge- and that would be a good thing.)
 

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I had a couple different MP40s, and while reliable weren't much accuracy wise. I can usually shoot 2 inch groups at 25 yards, rested ( my S&W 686 will do 1 inch) if the gun is up to it, and the best I could get out of my 40s was 4 to 5 inches. The only other handguns that were as bad were a pair of HK USP .45s I had.
I could always do better with my PC Shield .40 than I could with the FS 40s.

The new 5 inch MP9 I now have will do 2 inches with any ammo I put through it. I'm still trying different brands/weights to see what it really likes. For range/target use, accuracy matters.
For defensive use, any decent ammo or pistol used at closer range is going to do the job provided it is reliable.
Even those .40s I had that "patterned" instead of grouped.
 
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