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Discussion Starter #1
After i remove the slide and the barrel from the frame of my m&p 9 can i just draw some water with mild dish soap or car wash liquid and clean the frame and internal parts, the $7.00 birchwood casey polymer safe cleaner is just a little expensive for my tastes. I was just wanting some opinions and advice on how some of you clean the lower half of the gun and it's internals?Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh and the reason i said car wash liquid is because in the manual it states that anything you would put on your cars paint, should be safe for the gun.
 

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I spray the crap out of it with "G96 Gun Treatment", let it soak a while, use a tooth bruch where needed, blow it out with a 150 pounds of air. (being carfull around little things.) In between major cleanings I wipe the whole pistol down with Johnsons Pledge. The pledge gets rid of that dry dirty look, makes it look darker, cleaner, meaner.
 

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WD40 makes a pretty good solvent, you could spray a little on a patch or rag and wipe it out. You do have to be careful, some solvents can attack plastics.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok, i guess i should make this clearer, it's not the ouside of the grip or the outside of the lower half that i'm wondering about, it's' the inside where all the little springs and crevices are. What do you use besides a "polymer safe cleaner" for that?
 

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I don't know which Hoppes you're talking about, but the old Hoppes #9 is extremely harsh, I don't know if it's plastic safe or not, personally I wouldn't use Hoppes #9 on the plastic frame, I would think CLP would be fine.
 

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BSTOCK said:
Non chlorinated brake cleaner and a little CLP makes cleaning sooooooooooo easy


Amen! +1!!!
 

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To me it sounds like anything you do to a Glock should be ok for the M&P. Sorry for using Glocks in my termanology so much. But they've been around and things done to them have been tried and true so far...most of the time. :wink:



With that said...Many guys use the kitchen sink with soapy water to clean their glocks. Cant see where it would hurt to do the ol' "cleaning the dishes" tactic on an M&P. That and a small bristle brush does wonders to it...Then just grab the little lady's hair dryer and blow it dry...being careful not to heat the polymer and such too much. If you can adjust it to blow warm air instead of hot air...even better. :wink:
 

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CLP stands for Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative. Most people use BREAK FREE CLP because it meets all military standards. It's great stuff. It comes in aerosol cans or a 4 ounce plastic bottle.
 

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I have to admit I don't clean my guns much, though they are kept lubed and run fine. That being said, when I do clean them (maybe every 5K or so) they really need it. For years I have cleaned them with liquid dish soap and hot water, blew the excess out with compressed air and let them air dry. After they dry, relube and I'm good to go. I have never had a problem with this method and I get them way cleaner than I can with solvents and patches. Just my 2 cents, take it for what it's worth. BTW, I use this method on all my guns, not just the polymer frames.
 

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karry said:
My Kleen Bore gun cleanin kit came with a bottle of "Formula 3" gun conditioner....any comments?
Kleen Bore's website doesn't give much detail, it looks like it might be OK, but just to be sure you might contact them, they have a toll free phone number shown on their website, or they have a contact page for online use: http://www.kleen-bore.com/contact.html
 
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