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Discussion Starter #1
As a change of pace, I’ve started a rebuild of an LEO trade-in M&P. It’s a box stock 4 ¼" barrel M&P 1.0 with night sights. I got it pretty cheap and it’s in near perfect condition - carried a lot, shot a little, as they say.

I don’t have the scope of work completely decided on, just yet. I know it will get an Apex trigger, some Ed Brown parts, stippling, and slide milling.

My first step is to modify the cocking serrations to remove the waves, so I’m setting up for that. I need the slide level, the mill vice rotated to match the slant on the serrations, and the mill head tilted to match the angle of the serrations.

Here, I’m getting ready to tilt the head.

17463
 
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Discussion Starter #2
It’s hard to see what I have here because of the machining marks and the glare. But I straightened the cocking serrations and added a pocket cut at the same angle as the serrations and the high power cut.

Next up is the slide top. I’m trying to decide between nothing or three 1/16" wide, 1/32" deep serrations.

17465
 
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I decided to design my own optics plate system for this pistol, based on the idea behind Smith & Wesson’s C.O.R.E. plates.

It looks like this:

17470
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Here’s what the machined and blasted stainless slide looks like now:

17472
 

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That appears to be very nice work, but except for the slide work to mount an RMR, I don’t see the point. Did you want your M&P to look like a glock, maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That appears to be very nice work, but except for the slide work to mount an RMR, I don’t see the point. Did you want your M&P to look like a glock, maybe?
Thanks! I think. :)

I don't want my M&P to look like a stock M&P. But I wasn't after the Gucci Glock look (I'm not fond of Glocks in any trim). Maybe I missed the mark, to some extent?
 
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I can't wait to see that put back together on the firearm. Question: Is it tricky when undoing that little screw to access the striker block on a CORE slide? There is a tiny little spring under there, right? That is the one aspect I can't find any video on for upgrading a CORE model with the Apex Ultimate Striker Block piston....I think there is a little tear drop shaped flap that is screwed down over the spring...any insight would be helpful to me.

And I like the stepped back serrations you have on the racking end....very nice lightening carves on the sides and top, too.

SB
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Question: Is it tricky when undoing that little screw to access the striker block on a CORE slide?
Not tricky. There's a spring under there, so take it slow, but it's pretty easy to deal with.
 

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Thanks! I think. :)

I don't want my M&P to look like a stock M&P. But I wasn't after the Gucci Glock look (I'm not fond of Glocks in any trim). Maybe I missed the mark, to some extent?
I can't say you “missed the mark,” as only you know what you had in mind when you did all that fine machining.

I was just wondering what you had in mind when you started out. I meant no disrespect in my post; it just looked quite a bit like a block to me (I don’t care for them either).

That said; I could never begin to do the work that you showed you’re capable of.
 

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You are lucky you either have a mill, or have access to one. Now that I am retired, I wish I had a mill…and EDM machines…and a lathe…and a surface grinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Now that I am retired, I wish I had a mill…and EDM machines…and a lathe…and a surface grinder.
:ROFLMAO:

I'm retired too and added the mill to my new hobbies in December of last year. As they say, I don't know how I ever found the time to work!
 
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That's great work. I did the same as you and bought a M&P40 Trade in so I can play with parts and pieces and not worry about ruining an expensive pistol. I just don't have the machinist skills to do what you're doing.

wish I did though.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here’s the completed frame. I did the basketweave stippling (you can probably tell) and re-contoured and smoothed the underside of the trigger guard. Then I installed an Apex trigger kit, a Hyve extended magazine release, and an Ed Brown pin set.

17526
 

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Not criticism, but actual questions.

You didn't undercut the trigger guard very high, was that intentional?
Also is there a reason you didn't stipple the whole grip?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You didn't undercut the trigger guard very high, was that intentional?
Also is there a reason you didn't stipple the whole grip?
No particular reason for either. I worked the undercut until it suited my hand and like the way partial stippling looks.

Here's the completed gun:

17528
 

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It does look nice and your hand is what determines if it correct.
I was just curious because it looks different than both of mine ive had work done on and the guys I shoot with.
 
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