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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a M&P 40c and needed a holster, mag carrier and belt. So, I made The Slide, a single mag carrier and belt for my new gun.



Here is the finished product.




























 

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looks really sharp do you do this out of your home???? what is the cost for the 2 holsters combined??? would you give military/mp pistol forum discounts???? real nice setup!!! Seeing as you are obviously a ccw for mn what is the process, cost, length of time I am a non-mn resident but will be spending lots of time there any help would be appreciated...Thanx-Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do work out of my home and check my website for costs.



In MN, there are 15 states we honor their permits.

Here is the list of states http://www.dps.state.mn.us/bca/CJIS/Docume...mit/States.html



In MN, you can get a MN permit even if you are not a Minnesotan you can go to any Sheriff's office and apply by showing proof of MN carry class (yes you need a class about 6 hours long and a shooting test) and pay $100 fee. They will do the checks and have to respond with in 30 days with either the permit or a denial with cause. You get your permit in your hand in 30 days.



Here is our carry law.

http://www.dps.state.mn.us/bca/CJIS/Docume...mittocarry.html



Here is the major MN carry forum.

http://www.twincitiescarry.com/forum/
 

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thanks for the info brother..

Yet another forum I belong too now :wink: :wink: :wink:

for that class do they provide the firarm or whats the deal???
 

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Are you hand stitching (saddle stitch?) or using a machine? Any tips on getting the tension (as it relates to keeping the gun in the holster) just right? I tend to make mine too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
101Combat Vet said:
thanks for the info brother..

Yet another forum I belong too now :wink: :wink: :wink:

for that class do they provide the firarm or whats the deal???


Most instructors can and do provide a j-frame or semi for those who don't have a gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bloodnut said:
Are you hand stitching (saddle stitch?) or using a machine? Any tips on getting the tension (as it relates to keeping the gun in the holster) just right? I tend to make mine too tight.


I hand stitch using a rectangular punch available at Tandy in one, three and four tine. I understand your plight and it takes some time to figure out but key for me is that the "Hot" wet forming does most of the holding power (dunking the raw stitiched leather holster and then sticking the gun wrapped in plastic wrap into the holster to form around the gun). 1/4 to 3/8 inch away from the edge of the gun generally works well.



I hope this helps.
 

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10-4. That makes sense. I've been using a wheel to mark the stitches. Works good, but not as straight as I'd like sometimes. And I've been attempting to mold the leather prior to stitching it together. I have found that holsters, particularly IWB, which have the back sde (the side closest to the body) as flat/non-molded as possible, tend to be the most comfortable. The outside side then is heavily molded to the contour of the pistol (exterior edges in particular) for retention. I got this to work well on one holster. It works pretty well, but is ugly as sin. It's mostly ugly because I made it rough out to help preserve the finish on the Kimber I made it for.



What sort of leather treatment are you using? I found a receipe a while back on the net that I have used with some success. It was a 50/50 mix of beeswax and something that I can't recall at this moment. I melt it down and dunk the whole holster in, then let it dry. Then take a heat gun and gently melt off what's left. It leaves the holster hard and waterproof (and it has a nice mild smell too
). Most importantly, it hold the molding in the leather very well. The pistol doesn't click in quite like kydex, but it's close.



You are making some good looking stuff and have some some nice designs. When actual shooters get in the holster business, it's a good thing.
 

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Srigs,



After I posted above, I hit your site (again). I have a suggestion. You you how folks sometimes complain about the mag release getting hit while in the holster? I can think of two ways to mitigate this that I've not seen implemented anywhere.



Looking at the backside shot of your OWB belt rig (the shot of the S&W). How about bringing the leather up to the mag release so the holster leather actually surrounds the release button, at least partially. This would have the effect of putting the mag release in a sort of recess making it harder to inadvertently bump. If you could put a double thickness of leather right there, so much the better.



The other way (probably less effective particularly with leather v. kydex) would be to cover the right/off side of the mag release with the holster so that the mag release would have to overcome some pressure from the holster (hope that is clear).



The rub is that you would have to do some precise trimming to accomplish all this and still be able acheive a proper firing grip on the handgun. But it might be worth the effort. I've read numerous posts on this board of folks commenting on the ease with which the mag release on the M&P can be inadvertantly activated and I've seen no holster maker address this.
 

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Very nice work...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Bloodnut.



I use a dye and then an acrylic finish top coat semi-gloss because gloss is way to glossy (2 to 3 thin coats).



Good suggestions on the mag release. The first suggestion would be a royal PITA to cut or punch it "correctly". What I have found is cutting it short of the mag release and then in the hot wet molding pull the leather out by the mag release and let dry. This minimizes any possible chance on popping the mag. I have yet to have a mag pop out on OWB or IWB holsters.
 
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