I would talk with someone who knows before swapping springs. A lighter trigger return spring may translate into a less distinct trigger reset feel - you want a nice, distinct reset.
Need advice on mods.
Hi guys I could use a little advice.
I did part of the trigger job that was posted here. It did take some of the grittiness out of the trigger pull but didn't do much to releive the pull weight. I started with a long gritty 6# pull and now have a long smooth 5 3/4# pull.
I would like to take the trigger, locking block and the takedown lever out so that I can polish everything on the trigger and trigger bar. I finally found an article by Dan that tells how to take that front assembly out but no pictures.
I am also thinking about putting in a little weaker trigger return spring. I have some that are made for the Glock trigger kits. Does anyone have experience with this mod?
I would also like to take the mag safety . I read Dan's article on that but don't know how to take the gun down after that is removed.
Btw, I just bought my M&P 9 mm from Vances's Gun Shop in Columbus, Oh. On sale there for $399. Very nice people to deal with.
Thanks
Graybush
I did part of the trigger job that was posted here. It did take some of the grittiness out of the trigger pull but didn't do much to releive the pull weight. I started with a long gritty 6# pull and now have a long smooth 5 3/4# pull.
I would like to take the trigger, locking block and the takedown lever out so that I can polish everything on the trigger and trigger bar. I finally found an article by Dan that tells how to take that front assembly out but no pictures.
I am also thinking about putting in a little weaker trigger return spring. I have some that are made for the Glock trigger kits. Does anyone have experience with this mod?
I would also like to take the mag safety . I read Dan's article on that but don't know how to take the gun down after that is removed.
Btw, I just bought my M&P 9 mm from Vances's Gun Shop in Columbus, Oh. On sale there for $399. Very nice people to deal with.
Thanks
Graybush
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Yeah. I second not messing with the trigger return spring. FRankly, I'd like a heavier one than is in the gun. Just a little for a bit more rapid rest. Although Dan's trigger job makes it less of an issue.
There are three things you can neaten up to get rid of the grit.
Radius the firing pin stop to take off the insanely sharp chamfer.
Polish the nubbin on the trigger bar that contacts the firing pin stop. Don't change the geometry, and take off as little metal as possible doing this.
polish the face of the striker leg that engages the sear.
These will clear up the most common sources of grit. If that doesn't do it then I suspect that you might need some polishing on the mating surfaces of the trigger bar and sear.
There are three things you can neaten up to get rid of the grit.
Radius the firing pin stop to take off the insanely sharp chamfer.
Polish the nubbin on the trigger bar that contacts the firing pin stop. Don't change the geometry, and take off as little metal as possible doing this.
polish the face of the striker leg that engages the sear.
These will clear up the most common sources of grit. If that doesn't do it then I suspect that you might need some polishing on the mating surfaces of the trigger bar and sear.
Bloodnut & Raz-o,
You guys may be right. I have 4 Glocks with this mod. and they work fine.
I think what will help the M&P popularity a lot is the ability for the average shooting tinkerer to get the trigger down to an honest 3 1/2# . This feat is accomplished easily on the Glock, and I think the M&P has a lot of things going for it that may alter the thinking of a lot of die hard Glock fans.
In IPSC shooting we need the ability to make 10 yard head shots weak hand and strong hand only. I don't think this can be done with a 6# trigger. Certainly not with any speed.
I know that Dan B. sells a competitiion trigger for about $100, but I assume that requires shipping both ways which really jacks the cost up.
If a person is able to achieve a decent trigger and shoot enough matches to decide that he is really going to stay with the M&P, then he may be willing to spend the extra money to get the best trigger job possible.
You guys may be right. I have 4 Glocks with this mod. and they work fine.
I think what will help the M&P popularity a lot is the ability for the average shooting tinkerer to get the trigger down to an honest 3 1/2# . This feat is accomplished easily on the Glock, and I think the M&P has a lot of things going for it that may alter the thinking of a lot of die hard Glock fans.
In IPSC shooting we need the ability to make 10 yard head shots weak hand and strong hand only. I don't think this can be done with a 6# trigger. Certainly not with any speed.
I know that Dan B. sells a competitiion trigger for about $100, but I assume that requires shipping both ways which really jacks the cost up.
If a person is able to achieve a decent trigger and shoot enough matches to decide that he is really going to stay with the M&P, then he may be willing to spend the extra money to get the best trigger job possible.
Graybush,
Here is the links to the full trigger job. Most anyone with a little skill with a file and some patience can get a 3.5 pound trigger in an hour or so time.
http://mp-pistol.com/boards/viewtopic.php?...ght=trigger+job
You can use a standard glock trigger return spring it wll drop the pull weight down by about 3/4 lb is does make the reset a little less distinct compared to a gun with a trigger job but a gun with a trigger job and the glock spring the reset is still more distinct than a gun without a trigger job if that makes any sense at all :?
As far as removing the mag disco, with my instructions you retain the sear decativation lever so you still take down the gun the same way.
Here is the links to the full trigger job. Most anyone with a little skill with a file and some patience can get a 3.5 pound trigger in an hour or so time.
http://mp-pistol.com/boards/viewtopic.php?...ght=trigger+job
You can use a standard glock trigger return spring it wll drop the pull weight down by about 3/4 lb is does make the reset a little less distinct compared to a gun with a trigger job but a gun with a trigger job and the glock spring the reset is still more distinct than a gun without a trigger job if that makes any sense at all :?
As far as removing the mag disco, with my instructions you retain the sear decativation lever so you still take down the gun the same way.
Thanks Dan,
I had seen this link and I did a couple of things that helped with the smoothness. I was a little uneasy about the sear work. There was no real measurements or angles listed and I was concerned about ruining the sear or ending up with a full auto.
Have you given any thought to a drop in trigger kit for this gun? They seem to have gone over big with the Glock crowd?
Thanks for the great tips you have provided to this forum. It is great that you share your knowledge even though you may be taking money out of your pocket.
GB
I had seen this link and I did a couple of things that helped with the smoothness. I was a little uneasy about the sear work. There was no real measurements or angles listed and I was concerned about ruining the sear or ending up with a full auto.
Have you given any thought to a drop in trigger kit for this gun? They seem to have gone over big with the Glock crowd?
Thanks for the great tips you have provided to this forum. It is great that you share your knowledge even though you may be taking money out of your pocket.
GB
i agree with graybush at kit would be great
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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