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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took my 1.5 Hybrid 40 out to do a little bit of target practice this AM.
As some of you know l installed a 2.0 SHB and a 2.0 trigger and trigger bar in my 1.0 40, along with an APEX USB
The problem now is before the trigger breaks there is a long pull. APEX makes a trigger for the 2 0 but it's $76. A 2.0 trigger kit with a trigger, sear, and springs, is $119.95. Is this the kit l need to make my Hybrid 1 5 right?
 

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Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I know there is no way to significantly reduce the takeup on an M&P trigger without switching out internal parts such as the sear, sear actuator and maybe even the trigger bar. I can't remember now.

I like the triggers I have, but if I could have a wish granted, I'd like to have them break further forward myself.
 

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The trigger bar is where the slack is. I played with mine a bunch adding epoxy and things to it and also the trigger itself by adding to that where it hits the frame so its stops sooner. In the end $76 is worth it all the back woods ingenuity i tried. Plus the apex is a little different shape and fits my finger better.


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The stock M&P 2.0 triggers move in like 4 stages.

The first moves the hinge to disable the trigger lock on the back of the shoe.

The second (takeup) is where the raised ramp piece on the trigger bar slides across the striker block, pressing it into the slide to where the concentric slot in the block is lined up with the little tab on the striker so it can move past the block and fire the round.

The third is the wall where the trigger bar hits the tab on the sear actuator.

And the fourth is the break where the trigger is pulled the rest of the way dropping the sear and releasing the striker. (I'm sure most guys here already knew all that anyway :) )

Stage two is what I think we're talking about.

Somebody can again correct me if I'm wrong, but having thought this through at some length it does not seem to me that stage two can be shortened by itself without vitally effecting other stages.

In other words it appears that different parts with different geometry would be required to compensate for simply changing the distance the stock trigger bar travels.

I am no gunsmith, but I'm pretty sure I'm right about this. There's a ton of details as to why I say this that I haven't gone into here as well.
 

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I'm always curious as to why people buy a striker fired pistol and try to change the trigger to feel like a 1911. My thought is if you want a 1911 trigger buy a 1911. The two systems are completely different. One will never feel like the other. Always a mystery to me when I read these posts.
 

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I'm always curious as to why people buy a striker fired pistol and try to change the trigger to feel like a 1911. My thought is if you want a 1911 trigger buy a 1911. The two systems are completely different. One will never feel like the other. Always a mystery to me when I read these posts.
If you're happy with a heavy gritty trigger, good for you.

Some of us want a smooth 5# or less trigger with a short reset.

I live a few miles from Detroit, a 1911 here will get you killed due to minimal capacity.

Does that answer your assumption?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm always curious as to why people buy a striker fired pistol and try to change the trigger to feel like a 1911. My thought is if you want a 1911 trigger buy a 1911. The two systems are completely different. One will never feel like the other. Always a mystery to me when I read these posts.
I own a 1911 and am NOT trying to achieve a 1911 M&P trigger. I just wanted my 1.0's trigger to be as good, or better, than a 2.0's trigger.
Get ALL of the facts straight before you solve THE MYSTERY! :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you're happy with a heavy gritty trigger, good for you.

Some of us want a smooth 5# or less trigger with a short reset.

I live a few miles from Detroit, a 1911 here will get you killed due to minimal capacity.

Does that answer your assumption?
VERY WELL stated ST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hate when others "THINK" they KNOW IT ALL about what some are trying to achieve! :rolleyes:
 

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You guys went a little rougher than I was going to :)

This is honestly the first time I've ever heard of anybody trying to replicate a 1911 trigger in an M&P. It's just about making an already decent M&P trigger a better M&P trigger.

I live 5 blocks from the Detroit city line btw. Brightmoor is right over there.
 

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Sorry to ruffle your feathers guys. Other than sights I don't believe in altering a carry pistol. If a gun has a bad trigger I won't buy it. I hope you find what you want.
 

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Sorry to ruffle your feathers guys. Other than sights I don't believe in altering a carry pistol. If a gun has a bad trigger I won't buy it. I hope you find what you want.
Because modifications, especially to the trigger, can be used against you in court?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm kind of on the fence now about my Hybrid 1.5's trigger. I thought for sure by dropping in the 2.0 SHB and the 2.0 trigger and trigger bar, that l would achieve the 2.0 trigger.
Then came the gritty feeling. So, l added the APEX USB. That fixed the gritty problem, but now l have the loooooong draw before the trigger breaks.
Do l add the 2.0 APEX trigger, sear, and spring kit for $119.95, or do l just go back to my 1.0 SHB and 1.0 trigger bar with the APEX trigger?
I sure wish ScottNH would chime in with some advice. He hasn't been here in awhile.
Decisions, decisions! :rolleyes:
 

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I'm kind of on the fence now about my Hybrid 1.5's trigger. I thought for sure by dropping in the 2.0 SHB and the 2.0 trigger and trigger bar, that l would achieve the 2.0 trigger.
Then came the gritty feeling. So, l added the APEX USB. That fixed the gritty problem, but now l have the loooooong draw before the trigger breaks.
Do l add the 2.0 APEX trigger, sear, and spring kit for $119.95, or do l just go back to my 1.0 SHB and 1.0 trigger bar with the APEX trigger?
I sure wish ScottNH would chime in with some advice. He hasn't been here in awhile.
Decisions, decisions! :rolleyes:
You can get rid of the gritty feeling with some judicious polishing. This I know firsthand. It's basically accelerated break in. Most of that grit is where the trigger bar slides across the striker block. I learned this the long way haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You can get rid of the gritty feeling with some judicious polishing. This I know firsthand. It's basically accelerated break in. Most of that grit is where the trigger bar slides across the striker block. I learned this the long way haha.

I'm kind of on the fence now about my Hybrid 1.5's trigger. I thought for sure by dropping in the 2.0 SHB and the 2.0 trigger and trigger bar, that l would achieve the 2.0 trigger.
Then came the gritty feeling. So, l added the APEX USB. That fixed the gritty problem, but now l have the loooooong draw before the trigger breaks.
Do l add the 2.0 APEX trigger, sear, and spring kit for $119.95, or do l just go back to my 1.0 SHB and 1.0 trigger bar with the APEX trigger?
I sure wish ScottNH would chime in with some advice. He hasn't been here in awhile.
Decisions, decisions! :rolleyes:
Mr. T, l watched a video on YT to polish my trigger and bar. I don't want to keep nickle and diming it because it's getting expensive! That, and l feel like an APEX kit will fix it.
Then again, putting my 1.0 parts back in It, along with the recently added USB, might make my APEX trigger work much better now. I added an APEX trigger awhile back to all of my 1.0 40's.
I'M SO CONFUSED! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I put my 1.0 SHB and 1.0 trigger bar with the APEX polymer trigger, back into my 1.0 FS 40. When these parts were in it before I didn't have the APEX USB. With it back to 1.0 configuration, and the USB, it's now the trigger I want. Trigger pull is 4.59 lbs.
I will install the 2.0 parts in another one of my 1.0 40's along with some aftermarket parts to achieve that 2.0 trigger I want in a 1.0 frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm still not satisfied!
I took my MP and SD40 to my back yard range to relieve some stress (shooting is a great stress reliever).
My SD40 has a Galliway Boudica trigger and Wesbaun springs. The safety block is sanded and polished. Trigger pull is 4.75 lbs. The take up is short, the pull is very crisp, and the reset is soot on.
Why can't l get these same results from my MP? I'm racking my brain trying to figure this dang trigger out.
What's my next move? Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated!
 

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I'm wanting to get rid of the looooooong trigger pull right before it breaks/fires.
l feel like an APEX kit will fix it.
That's the answer.

Somebody can again correct me if I'm wrong, but there's no way to significantly reduce the takeup without a significant change of parts in the whole trigger group. Which for an M&P means Apex.

Your 2 pistols have totally different triggers. :)
 

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If you're happy with a heavy gritty trigger, good for you.

Some of us want a smooth 5# or less trigger with a short reset.

I live a few miles from Detroit, a 1911 here will get you killed due to minimal capacity.

Does that answer your assumption?
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
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