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Discussion Starter #1
I got my new pistol today. I haven't cleaned & lubed yet, but of course the first thing I did was slow dry fire, or more correctly, slow, grinding, crunching , looong take up, and then a decent break.
I know, I know, it will get better. I don't have access to several hundred rounds to waste to make it "get better" with the current ammo shortage, which now may last a lot longer than expected.
. I've seen old rusty surplus rifles with way better triggers than this. I have two other s&w pistols. One is an old model 910, and the other is a Shield 9 gen 1. Both came out of the box smooth as an eel in a bucket of snot. I can't believe s&w let something like this out of the factory.
I researched for months before deciding to buy one. I read about gritty s&w triggers, and thought the posters were just exaggerating since both mine were great, so I figured there were a few flukes out there, but by now s&w had corrected the problems. Guess not... Then the "shortage " hit, and I couldn't find one for a long time. I like buying U.S. made products, and have always thought s&w was a quality product and company, but this is really bothering me. I paid over $600 with tax and shipping, and ffl transfer, and having to drive a 90 mile round trip to pick it up, and now I have to either send it back, or fix it myself. I appreciate this forum, and the info shared by those who have experience and knowledge, and are willing to share it. I'll probably follow the guides and how to's here and elsewhere, and try to get it at least like it should have been from the factory, and hopefully better, ,like my other pistols are. I have lost a lot of my faith in s&w, and may look at something different in the future, except at my age, I'll probably not be buying another pistol.
Sorry for the rant. Just wanted to let others know of my experience. "Just cause something is shiny, doesn't mean it's gold" ;)
 

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I sent my new M&P45 2.0 Compact back to S&W because of a very rough and inconsistent take-up. It came back better, but far from great. After more rounds and careful lubing, it's acceptable. Never going to be great without something like an Apex trigger kit.

Recently picked up the same in 9mm for home, and the trigger is much better.

Try cleaning to remove any production debris and lubing areas that may have resistance.

Putting a good amount of rounds through it needs to be done no matter what to ensure it will function when needed.
 

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Get the apex trigger kit - either the duty carry or the rear set variant, in wither curved or straight profiles. I have both and they really make the trigger a dream - almost as good as my 1911s. Yes, you'll add a bit on top of your $600 investment, but the difference will be transformative.
 

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I have only got about 250 rounds through my 4" 40c but I think the trigger is pretty good for a plastic gun. Not as good as my CZ p10 but better than probably every other plastic gun I have had. I don't go to the range the first time without cleaning and oil and the first two outings it was a little crunchy but has since broke in very nicely and I find it wonderfully accurate. May even buy one to set aside in case guns become even more scarce.

Clean and oil is a must do before I start to evaluate a new purchase
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks folks for the replies/info. My Shield9 was smooth from the get go, and I still don't have a lot rounds thru it. I believe the bore/galley(what ever you call it) that the plunger rides in is the culprit. I can press the plunger in and out with my finger, and it feels like it has sand in it. That is pressing it straight in and out. IF I press it from an angle like the trigger bar does,,it's even more gritty.
The gun was very clean, and was lubed in the key places when I took it out of the box.
I have read of instances where this bore had burrs in it at the bottom. From what I read, the performance center job probably would not include cleaning up "machine marks". I guess I'll see what I can do. Question: what do you folks think about coating the plunger with Flitz, and working it in and out a few hundred times. Or maybe even turning it with a slow drill while keeping it coated with Flitz,,,or even a 2k grit compound? Just a thought. I'll know more after I get into it. Any and all comments/advice is much appreciated. gwtx
 

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That plunger is part of the drop protection and is notorious for being the culpret to crunchy triggers. I have worked on a number of CZ's and one of the first steps in "trigger" job is cleaning out that channel and often going to a lighter spring. I wouldn't recommend a lighter spring but if your comfortable taking your gun apart pull the stricker and what ever else you need to and get the plunger out. Hose out that entire area to make sure there is no gunk in there and then I polished the plunger ever so lightly with some rouge and a dremel. Make sure to get some q tips up in the channel to clean it out.

It usually just gunk and not burs.
 

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For cleaning and lubing difficult to reach areas, Hornady One-Shot is a good choice IMO.

It sprays like a gun cleaner, but leaves a thin film of lubricant that's dry to the touch. Is also an excellent corrosion inhibitor.

Top rated in this test -

 

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For cleaning and lubing difficult to reach areas, Hornady One-Shot is a good choice IMO.

It sprays like a gun cleaner, but leaves a thin film of lubricant that's dry to the touch. Is also an excellent corrosion inhibitor.

Top rated in this test -

Great link! of course the one I have been using isnt on the list ! Drats! I have been using the Lucas CLP adn been very happy. Kind of pricey but I have been using it in and on my revolvers and like the action. Not as good as a tear down and regrease but does clean out the gun nicely and provide a smooth action.

I try not to be a fan boy of anything but I use the lucas oil in my motorcycle and it was such great stuff I started using their gun oil and clp. So far pretty impressed
 

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Thanks folks for the replies/info. My Shield9 was smooth from the get go, and I still don't have a lot rounds thru it. I believe the bore/galley(what ever you call it) that the plunger rides in is the culprit. I can press the plunger in and out with my finger, and it feels like it has sand in it. That is pressing it straight in and out. IF I press it from an angle like the trigger bar does,,it's even more gritty.
The gun was very clean, and was lubed in the key places when I took it out of the box.
I have read of instances where this bore had burrs in it at the bottom. From what I read, the performance center job probably would not include cleaning up "machine marks". I guess I'll see what I can do. Question: what do you folks think about coating the plunger with Flitz, and working it in and out a few hundred times. Or maybe even turning it with a slow drill while keeping it coated with Flitz,,,or even a 2k grit compound? Just a thought. I'll know more after I get into it. Any and all comments/advice is much appreciated. gwtx
I wouldn't do that.

Just slide the rear sight from left to right as you would be shooting it (from the rear) enough to uncover the spring cover. then remove the spring cover, spring, and striker block. Remove them from the slide, then roll up a piece of wet/dry sandpaper, Flitz, or whatever you have around, to clean up and polish the sides of the striker block channel.

That way, you can clean out the channel good when you’re done.

Tip: If you can’t remove the rear sight set screw, that likely means that Red LocTite was used. So, heat the set screw some with a soldering iron, remove it, then heat the sight base some more prior to trying to drift the sight over. I put the soldering iron tip right against the screw hole in the rear sight.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I wouldn't do that.

Just slide the rear sight from left to right as you would be shooting it (from the rear) enough to uncover the spring cover. then remove the spring cover, spring, and striker block. Remove them from the slide, then roll up a piece of wet/dry sandpaper, Flitz, or whatever you have around, to clean up and polish the sides of the striker block channel.

That way, you can clean out the channel good when you’re done.

Tip: If you can’t remove the rear sight set screw, that likely means that Red LocTite was used. So, heat the set screw some with a soldering iron, remove it, then heat the sight base some more prior to trying to drift the sight over. I put the soldering iron tip right against the screw hole in the rear sight.
Thanks Rick. The plunger looked terrible. Actually had scratches on it. I have polished the plunger with flitz, looks better, but I can still see a slightly rough spot on it. I cleaned up the channel some, still needs more. It looked like it was bored with a harbor freight hole saw, instead of an end mill. Rough grooves around the contact area. It's better, but I think I will get some 1500 paper and clean up the grooves a bit more. Don't want to enlarge it. Then Flitz like you said. I ordered an OEM plunger, spring, and the little plastic spacer that went zooming out the second time I had it apart.:( I fashioned another one to use temporarily while I'm working on the problem. Also fashioned a "fix stick" (like the apex one) to prevent the re occurrence hopefully. I may radius the plunger a wee bit after the replacement comes in. Thanks for the reply and help. gwtx
 

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Triggers can be from one end to the other. My 1.0 9 was terrible. My 1.0 .40 was pretty decent. My 2.0 9 wasn't real bad but I put an Apex trigger kit in it. That was so great I ordered another Apex kit the day I ordered my 2.0 .45 acp. Those two rival some of my hammer fired CZs.

Same for my favorites (CZ pistols). I bought a couple of those steel framed P01's a few years back when some sneaked into the country. Absolutely the worst CZ triggers I've ever pulled. I'd take a stock Glock/XDM/M&P trigger over those two triggers.

Just the way it is. You get lucky or you spend some money on it to get it to suit you.
 

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First off, the M&P is designed with a long take up (I like that about it). So, that is not an issue. On the gritty trigger, it seems striker polymer guns have a bad one here and there. I would start with a good clean and lube. I would even remove the striker and clean out the channel. I have two M&P M2.0 handguns and it seemed there was some small burrs on the trigger bar that interects with the striker safety. I smoothed and polished both and it made a good difference. Overall though both of my M2.0 handguns have excellent trigger, for a striker gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update: As I said in post 10, I did some cleaning and polishing of the channel the block slides in. It maybe feels a bit better but, I pick up the gun, rack the slide(gun is clear) and start a slow pull on the trigger, I feel the trigger bar contact the striker safety block(ssb) and can feel the block start to move. Then it's like it is stuck. A little more squeeze, and "click" it starts moving again to the break. Still feel some grit, but not like before I started polishing.
Now, if I run the trigger a few times (not cycling the slide) the "click" catch goes away.
Then I rack the slide again and squeeze,,,sticks and clicks again. Rack again and cycle the trigger up to the break and it feels ok. Sorry to get so long winded, but it's kinda hard to explain. I really don't like typing:)
This "click" I'm talking about is felt more than the reset click. I've had the gun apart dozens of times, operated it with the back window slightly open, and It looks like it is sticking on the striker "lug" that engages the block. I am going to clean and polish that part and see, but I had a medical emergency and it will have to wait a bit. Has anyone ever seen or heard of a scenario like this? It is possible there is "burr" at the very bottom of the channel that I did not see or feel when I was into it before.
Also,, these magazine springs must have come out of a box car. I know I'm getting old and soft, but I've never had a mag this stout. Even the Elander 6.5 Grendel mags are not this strong. I'll load'em up, and leave'em set fully loaded for a while and see if that helps.
Heard it said "gettin old ain't bad,,,but it sure is inconvenient some times :)
 

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I read a post a few years back that explained how S&W made the M&P slides. If I remember correctly, the drill the hole for the striker block first and then the striker channel after that. The result was sometimes there would be burs in the striker safety channel. The person then showed how he de-burred the striker safety channel and the trigger was much better. Since you have tried this already and it is stil that bad, I would contact S&W and have them take it back and look at it. This is not normal for an M2.0 trigger. Like I sated before I have 2 of them and the triggers are really good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I read a post a few years back that explained how S&W made the M&P slides. If I remember correctly, the drill the hole for the striker block first and then the striker channel after that. The result was sometimes there would be burs in the striker safety channel. The person then showed how he de-burred the striker safety channel and the trigger was much better. Since you have tried this already and it is stil that bad, I would contact S&W and have them take it back and look at it. This is not normal for an M2.0 trigger. Like I sated before I have 2 of them and the triggers are really good.
Thanks for the reply. I have watched that video several times. I didn't get that aggressive, didn't want to overdo it. I just used a cylindrical dremel type buffing drum with some bore bright, and then flitz. But I could not feel a burr big enough to be doing this. I'm trying figure out why cycling the trigger a few times(without actually letting it break) makes the "stick" go away, and it doesn't happen withe striker removed. Maybe the plunger has ridge on it that the striker lug is catching on. ??? Hate to send it to S&W, and have it come back without being fixed as has happened to some folks. Since I have had it apart and polished some points, and am not a "certified smith", they may refuse it.? Thanks for the help. If you come up with any ideas, I'd sure be glad to hear them.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I have watched that video several times. I didn't get that aggressive, didn't want to overdo it. I just used a cylindrical dremel type buffing drum with some bore bright, and then flitz. But I could not feel a burr big enough to be doing this. I'm trying figure out why cycling the trigger a few times(without actually letting it break) makes the "stick" go away, and it doesn't happen withe striker removed. Maybe the plunger has ridge on it that the striker lug is catching on. ??? Hate to send it to S&W, and have it come back without being fixed as has happened to some folks. Since I have had it apart and polished some points, and am not a "certified smith", they may refuse it.? Thanks for the help. If you come up with any ideas, I'd sure be glad to hear them.
if you do not plan to send it back to S&W then best thing I can think of is to start replacing parts. Do you have a friend with an M&P that would let you try the striker assembly out of his gun in your gun? Check Midwest link below for parts. Maybe replace the striker first. if it still does it the try the striker block. I would go with the Apex ultimate striker block. Where do you live? if you happen to live near Houston, TX I would be happy to take a look at it with you and swap some parts from my M2.0.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the offer, but I'm never sure when I'll be working on it. I discovered where the "click" is coming from. Looking thru the back end of the slide while traveling the trigger, I can see the trigger bar contacting the plunger. Just as it starts to depress the plunger the trigger bar moves a bit right to left. The bar appears to hang on the little teat in the center of the top of the plunger left by the machining then makes the click as it pops off the hangup.
The side step is by design I'm assuming because the same thing happens in my Shield. As I said in an earlier post, it happens when I rack the slide and then pull the trigger slowly. I am seeing now that if I put a bit of side pressure on the trigger blade from left to right, then pull the trigger, it clicks. If I rack the slide, pull the trigger stopping before it breaks, then release the trigger, it doesn't do it. It seems the bar is getting shifted to right(ejection port side) somehow. I am reading several articles about bending the trigger bar for some other "fixes", but I'm not ready to do that yet. I can barely feel the little teat on top of the plunger, but I'm going to stone it off being careful not to remove much/if any material off the top of the plunger. I received the parts I had ordered from MWG, so I have a new spare plunger, spacer, spring, just in case.
I'm hoping maybe someone will chime in on the "side stepping" trigger bar.
Thanks for your help. Now I'm struggling with catheters, kidney stones, and doctors.
 

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I replace the stock sear and striker block in all the M&P’s I use for carry with the Apex machined sear and their ultimate striker block. Each Apex part comes with their own lighter replacement springs.

That gives me a clean trigger pull of 3 1/2 - 3 3/4 pounds, which is right in the same weight range as my 1911 trigger pulls. Some may think that’s a bit light; but I believe it’s all in what you train with. My most used training and match pistol has an average pull weight of 2 pounds 7 ounces.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I replace the stock sear and striker block in all the M&P’s I use for carry with the Apex machined sear and their ultimate striker block. Each Apex part comes with their own lighter replacement springs.

That gives me a clean trigger pull of 3 1/2 - 3 3/4 pounds, which is right in the same weight range as my 1911 trigger pulls. Some may think that’s a bit light; but I believe it’s all in what you train with. My most used training and match pistol has an average pull weight of 2 pounds 7 ounces.
Thanks Rick, I've been looking at the Apex parts. Did you buy a sear kit or just the sear.? I see 5 to 5.5 lbs pull on the ads, I've got that with the polishing I've done. In fact the trigger is now "tolerable" except for "click" problem. Tonight I noticed that the trigger has a LOT of side play which makes me think harder about calling for a RMA from S&W. I've also noticed what looks like more than normal clearance between the slide and the lower receiver. I can see the slide move when starting to pull the trigger. I've got a couple more ideas to look at, then I guess I'll ship it. Don't want to mess it up where they won't accept it. Thanks for your help.
 

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Thanks Rick, I've been looking at the Apex parts. Did you buy a sear kit or just the sear.? I see 5 to 5.5 lbs pull on the ads, I've got that with the polishing I've done. In fact the trigger is now "tolerable" except for "click" problem. Tonight I noticed that the trigger has a LOT of side play which makes me think harder about calling for a RMA from S&W. I've also noticed what looks like more than normal clearance between the slide and the lower receiver. I can see the slide move when starting to pull the trigger. I've got a couple more ideas to look at, then I guess I'll ship it. Don't want to mess it up where they won't accept it. Thanks for your help.
If you buy the kits, they’ll cost more than just the sear and striker block. The competition kit comes with lighter trigger return and striker springs. The Duty/Carry kit comes with a heavier than stock trigger return spring. That’s why you’ll get a lighter pull just changing the striker and sear.

You really don’t want to install a Competition Action Enhancement Kit if you’re going to use the gun for carry or home protection. That’s what I used to get such a light pull on my training/IDPA gun; an M&P9.

I have another M&P9 for carry that I put the sear and striker block in. That one has a 3 1/2 pound trigger pull.
 
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