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Here are two charts showing spectrographic analysis of Frog Lube and comparing it to coconut oil, a common cooking oil. There have been several exposes recently about certain of the new 'miracle lubes' that have turned out to be cooking oil, Fire Clean turns out to be mainly Crisco, and Frog Lube mainly coconut oil.
For those that are happy with using either; it'd seem to make more sense to buy it in quantity at the grocery store for under three bucks per half gallon, than to pay a ridiculously inflated price to someone else for slapping a different label on a tiny bottle. :blink:
 

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For those that are happy with using either; it'd seem to make more sense to buy it in quantity at the grocery store for under three bucks per half gallon, than to pay a ridiculously inflated price to someone else for slapping a different label on a tiny bottle. :blink:
AB SO LUTE LY...!!!!!! :clap::smoke:
 

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I use Frog Lube.
Is it coconut oil? I dunno, doesn't bother me if it is. I wear Hawaiian shirts daily anyway so if it is, then Mahalo brother.



I'll use their own slogan - It just works.
I can clean whatever I need to at the dining room table without any complaints from the wife or kids over the smell.
Add to that the fact that I have some pretty severe allergic reactions to petro chem items, and I have had zero,zip,nada with Frog Lube.
 

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Mobil 1 0w40 'European Formula' true synthetic. It's all I use on my AR's as well.

Tomac
 

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Anything that's on sale. After 40 some years of shooting IMHO they are all pretty much the same. Don't fall victim to the manufacturer's hype - none of them have magical properties. The companies are bull shitting you left and right with their ads. But for what it's worth, I have always liked Brian Enos' Slide Glide Lite. Especially on a brand new semi automatic handgun.
 

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What Deigo said ^^^^. Companies will make all kinds of claims to move their product.
But any lube is better than none at all.
When I started my Army career we were using LSA, then later on, CLP.
I like CLP and have used it for along time.
Cleans, Lubricates, Protects.
Although for cleaning heavy carbon deposits I use a spray can of Carbon Blast or Birchwood Gun Scrubber to get the worst of the carbon off first.
I think the old adage was "If it pivots, oil it, if it slides, grease it", not if it rolls.
(There is a roller on the M14/M1A's bolt).
On a pistol slide I use Wilson Ultima Lube, probably similar to Enos's Slide Glide.
It is a heavier slick oil, it seems to stay on better/longer than grease.
And a dry lube can come in handy, for the recoil spring assembly, or if you desire to lube the inside of magazines, as you don't want to use a regular oil as it will attract lint, gunk, etc.
Do NOT use WD-40 on parts that pivot, as over time it will gunk up and harden.
WD-40 was meant to be a water displacement to keep metal from rusting, but not as a lube for intricate moving parts like triggers and sears.
 

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If it moves a drop of oil. Such as trigger and springs except for the firing pin channel that should just be cleaned. Metal on metal a little white grease. I use M-Pro7 bore cleaner with nylon brush to clean then M-Pro7 gun oil lpx for lube and Tetra gun grease. A little lube goes a long way so just a drop here and there will do.
 

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TR
do you have a different link, this one dosen`t work...thanks
The link works for me. Just go to MidwayUSA website and type in
Breakthrough Clean Technologies Combo Pack.


My 2 favorites are still Ballistol and Slip2000.

I think people overthink their cleaning.

Good ole KISS method. Keep it simple, stupid.
 

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The link works for me. Just go to MidwayUSA website and type in
Breakthrough Clean Technologies Combo Pack.


My 2 favorites are still Ballistol and Slip2000.

I think people overthink their cleaning.

Good ole KISS method. Keep it simple, stupid.
Yup, exactly :clap:

I still use my grammpy`s formula.... kerosene & transmission oil.... never failed him, and me either.
 

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Check out Militec-1. Personally I've used it for 10 plus years. After you do the initial preparation that it calls for in the application process it does exactly what it claims. Really cut down on cleaning time and I no longer need the strong smelling solvents. Their grease works great on the frame rails. Also use it on my AR-15.


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That is pretty interesting. I might try that, however I am unsure of where exactly to get Kerosene from.



I saw this video some guy on Youtube posted for field stripping and oiling his Shield. Is this a good example? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqJNdF2by6Q&t=119s



Are you supposed to use different oils/lubes for different parts on the gun?



Also, some people say lube everything, however the S&W Shield manual says to only apply lubricant to certain points on the gun.



Are there oils/lubes you should avoid using on the barrel due to the excessive heat caused when firing?



Are barrel snakes worth it? Or should I look into buying a dedicated brush and just use cloths?


Don't fall for all the mumbo jumbo you see. Everytime someone comes out with something new we always want to try it. I keep sticking with Militec-1. It works


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I heard about the use of Transmission fluid to clean and lube guns but after buying some and taking the cap off it smelled so bad I didn't open it again. Same for the Ballistol.
A Texas gunsmith once told me to use the red Marvel Mystery Oil to clean and then to mix a small amount of stp for lubing the barrel parts. He said the step would make the MMO stick better and it does. I used this exclusively when I was shooting IPSC with the 1911 45.
The MMO cleaned very well and maybe because it was used in auto engines a lot in the 50s/60s. It was developed to resolve sludge in the auto engines. Makes sense. I still use it occasionally. I guess I have a bottle of almost every kind of oil and solvent for cleaning guns. Anything with oil in it works and even WD-__!
 

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Mobil 1 0w40 'European Formula' true synthetic. It's all I use on my AR's as well.

Tomac
Hoppes to clean and Mobil 1 0w40 'European Formula' true synthetic to oil. The newest bestest oil isn't going to touch the research that went in to Mobil 1 European car formula. If it's good enough for a $200,000 200+mph Porsche (factory fill) then it's overkill for a firearm. There was even lawsuits here and in Europe over what constitutes a "TRUE" synthetic and this is it.

My father told me that in WW2 that 1911s were thrown into a bucket of kerosene and sat overnight and then in the morning they were taken out. If yours was all filthy then you threw it the bucket and grabbed another one from the ground next to it. If you had time you field stripped it and wiped it down, if not well it was war and many active battlefields in the South Pacific. Throw a loaded magazine in it and get back to fighting.

If you are using "gun grease" then you have either too much time or money. I have friends who use mineral spirits to clean and Mobil 1 to lube guns that they use in teaching beginner classes. I'm sure they probably use something a little better to clean their personal guns but the common oil is Mobil 1 0w40 'European Formula. For $5-6 a quart you will find that a quart will probably outlast you.

FWIW WD40 is for squeaky door hinges, I wouldn't use that on any firearm.
 

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I used Millitec-1 until I read the DOD report. I'm using G96 CLP now. I also looked at Froglube but decided against it due to the heating process. I'm trying to keep it simple like I did years before.


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That's the fun of these type of questions. If MILITEC-1 works for you, by all means keep using it. Do you know who found it unsuitable for small arms? The DOD. It was a crankcase additive that was relabeled as a gun lubricant that was tested pretty thoroughly and failed. It might not smell but is carcinogenic so wear rubber gloves. More newest bestest marketing nonsense.
The summary of the DOD? "The product has not passed any tests and evaluations for a small arms cleaner, lubricant, and preservative, metal conditioner, or a general purpose lubricant."
This is the link: https://www.gao.gov/products/GAO-09-735R
 
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