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Discussion Starter #1
I've been dry fire training a lot with pink rhino laser cartridge given the difficulty to find acceptable pricing on anmo.

Id imagine after certain time lube would need to be reapplied? Are there any tell tale signs of a "dry gun" i should keep an eye out ear out for?
 

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Field strip it and look at it.

That is not sarcastic, but is the only way I know of to actually see if it is "dry" or still has the VERY LIGHT coating of oil on the parts specified in the owners manual. That will also show you if there is metal-to-metal wear that wouldn't have happened if it had been properly lubed all along.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Field strip it and look at it.

That is not sarcastic, but is the only way I know of to actually see if it is "dry" or still has the VERY LIGHT coating of oil on the parts specified in the owners manual. That will also show you if there is metal-to-metal wear that wouldn't have happened if it had been properly lubed all along.
Exactly what I did - the barrel could have used a drop, but wasn't bone dry so I left it
Slide rails seemed to have a thin coat still.
This was after no fewer than 300 dry fires over 3-4 weeks.

Side note.
I finally shot live ammo with no lubing after the dry fires and the beauty shot 110 rounds like a dream.
Came home and noticed it was particularly dirty -maybe the remington range? not sure, but will be doing some independent testing in the future to see!
 

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Although there actually is some ammo that is noticeably dirtier than other brands, a basic rule as to how dirty the gun gets is: the smaller the gun, the dirtier it gets - quicker! That is so basic that it shouldn't be a surprise, but I admit that I was initially a bit surprised to see how filthy my wee little SIG P238's got inside compared to the much larger Bersa 380cc I used to have. So I clean the wee ones more often.
 
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