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With component prices rising, where you guys buying bullets for reloading? I need some 45 bullets. No match stuff just looking for some shooters. I am aware of most of the mail order houses and wondering if anyone has ran across any real DEALS!!
 

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For my 9mm and 40 S&W I use plated bullets, Berrys or Rainier, I get them from Midway, Grafs or Wideners, whichever is cheapest.



I use cast lead bullets in my 45acp 1911, I get them from a local bullet maker, but there's lots of places on the web where you can get them. Check around, prices vary considerably, and for most cast lead bullets the quality runs about the same.



The price of lead has been coming down, hopefully we will see some lower prices on bullets soon, keep your fingers crossed.
 

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30378 said:
With component prices rising, where you guys buying bullets for reloading? I need some 45 bullets. No match stuff just looking for some shooters. I am aware of most of the mail order houses and wondering if anyone has ran across any real DEALS!!


Lead prices have gone through the roof this past year - it's doubtful that you will find "deals" on any bullet. If you want to shoot cast lead you should be able to find 200-225 semi-wadcutters(SWC) for around $60/1000. www.mastercast.net makes a good cast bullet for about $60/1000 in 45 - there are others out there as well.



I would look into Precision bullets - the black moly coated bullet. Dave makes a great product at a reasonable price by today's prices About $200 for a case of 2250 shipped to your door. They shoot well out of my 40.

http://www.precisionbullets.com/



There is some speculation that the price of lead will fall rather hard the first of 2008. Whether or not the bullet manufacturers will pass that along will remain to be seen.



About the only way you'll get a deal today is buy what somebody has that is getting out of shooting or from an estate sale, auction, etc..
 

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30378 said:
With component prices rising, where you guys buying bullets for reloading? I need some 45 bullets. No match stuff just looking for some shooters. I am aware of most of the mail order houses and wondering if anyone has ran across any real DEALS!!


I see you're not far outside DFW. I use Kead bullets - hard cast lead. No lead buildup - even thru my Glock 26. Some places locally have them (I get them at Doc's in Carrollton) - but they use USPS flat rate boxes to ship direct, so it's not that bad if you can't find them in store. Good quality, gas checks, sized and lubed. I run the 125gr round nose 9mm in my 26, & wife's M&P9c and S&W915, and 155gr RNSWC in my HK USP Tactical. I have found the weight very consistent, and not one malformed yet.



http://www.keadbullets.com/
 

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I'm still waiting for samples of Kead's bullets to come. I'm hoping they'll shoot accurately out of my pistols/revolvers. We'll see. Been using Mastercast in PA for several years and the .45s in 200 gr swc are very accurate.
 

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Berries said:
I'm still waiting for samples of Kead's bullets to come. I'm hoping they'll shoot accurately out of my pistols/revolvers. We'll see. Been using Mastercast in PA for several years and the .45s in 200 gr swc are very accurate.


+1 on the PA Mastercast - I"ve used their 180 gr in 40Cal for practice ammo in the past - great accuracy. With bullet prices the way they are I will most likely use them for club matches too unless the prices of the premium bullets fall soon.
 

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Berries said:
I'm still waiting for samples of Kead's bullets to come. I'm hoping they'll shoot accurately out of my pistols/revolvers. We'll see. Been using Mastercast in PA for several years and the .45s in 200 gr swc are very accurate.
I've had good luck with Kead's 158 grain RNLs in .357 Mag loads that run ~1100 fps from my 4" revolvers. That's what I use for IDPA ESR in a S&W M681. They shoot well and don't lead.
 

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Ive used kead 230gr and 200swc out of my 1911 in the past. Good lead bullets, but I havent found a cast bullet yet that wouldnt lead a barrel after 300 rounds.
 

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Mike- you talkin' bullet skid or leading further down the barrel? I get leading from bullet engraving/skid just ahead of the chamber, I think everyone does, but I rarely get any further along, even after 300 or so rounds.
 

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You can reduce leading to almost nothing by matching the pressure to the alloy. With commercial hard-cast bullets, .38 Special, Minor .40 and .45 ACP loads will almost always lead near the chamber, while 9x19 and .357 Magnum rarely lead much if at all. This assumes that they're sized correctly. Swaged bullets rarely lead in .38 Special loads; I've shot 750 rounds of Zero swaged RNLs over 4.1 grains of Titegroup in a day of training with NO leading. They're smokey, though - look at my avatar.




My .357 Mag load using 6.8 grains of new Unique/158 grain Kead RNL is clean enough that I've shot a 150 round match with only occasional chamber brushing and just a hair of leading toward the muzzle.
 

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Berries said:
Mike- you talkin' bullet skid or leading further down the barrel? I get leading from bullet engraving/skid just ahead of the chamber, I think everyone does, but I rarely get any further along, even after 300 or so rounds.
Yup - I shot 300 thru my G26 yesterday, and that was all I had. Dad had about the same thru his G26 and only slight lead in front of chamber from skidding. Wife put about 200 thru the 9c and nada. We were shooting both the 122gr FP and the 125gr RN Keads.



Ah, the smell of gunpowder on Xmas!
 

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I can remember back some 35 years ago I got my first 357 mag. and reloaded some cast slugs I got somewhere. Had leading the full length of the bore! I didn't know much back then, but I learned pretty much in short order, about cast bullet hardness.



I think some guys that are new to reloading/handguns, consider bullet skid as leading, but I don't. Jacketed slugs do it as well, you just don't see it as with the lead.



As for swaged slugs in the .38, I've used Star, rem. Horn., Zero, Delta. I get a hint of skid with some of them.

Easiest way I've found to get rid of the lead without scrubbing the bore half to death is to take a piece of Chore Boy copper scouring pad and wrap it around an old bore brush. Run it down to where the lead is and scour it, dry. Takes lead out slicker than snot. A guy posted it on a forum somewhere and I tried it. Works well.
 

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I've been using the Chore Boy method for years, I saw it on a Wilson Combat video on maintaining the 1911. I previously used the Lewis Lead Remover, the Chore Boy method works easier and faster, and is cheaper than the special brass screens for the Lewis.



If anyone wants to try the Chore Boy method, Chore Boy comes in copper and stainless, be sure you get the copper one, it won't hurt your barrel.
 
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