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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone removed the beavertail themselves?

If you have, is the beavertail solid or is it hollow and requires to be

filled in? If you did fill it in, with what?

Sometime in the future, my M&P will probably take on a new look.

This is one of the changes I'd like to make.
 

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IAShooter said:
Has anyone removed the beavertail themselves?

If you have, is the beavertail solid or is it hollow and requires to be

filled in? If you did fill it in, with what?

Sometime in the future, my M&P will probably take on a new look.

This is one of the changes I'd like to make.




I wondered about that myself. I'm seriously looking at a M&P9 to replace my Vertec.
 

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Yes,

I did until my server took a dump yesterday
I have been working with my tech people to get it back up hopefully I'll have it by monday until then I am without email as well.
 

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Ok Dan, time to part with the trade secrets
. After removing the bulk of the unwanted material, how do you complete the finish to get it to match the original frame finish? Specific grit of sanding, bead/sand blast, ???...
 

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Nats said:
Ok Dan, time to part with the trade secrets
. After removing the bulk of the unwanted material, how do you complete the finish to get it to match the original frame finish? Specific grit of sanding, bead/sand blast, ???...
I hate trade secrets :wink: Besides a gunsmith's best friend (customer) is the armature dremel driver.



I wish it was that easy as just using a specific grit, and blasting does squat tried that too.



Now, how I do it should not be tried by anyone as it is very likely you will ruin your frame and I cannot be responsible for what you do to your gun. Just for your information I use a butane torch to blister the surface. There is a very fine line between blistering and burning and the area must be smooth as can be before blistering it other wise any ridges will blister quicker and end up burning. If you burn it you have to sand it back down and start over again of course you only get so many shots at it before you run out of real estate.



Please no one try this then get pi$$ed at me when your frame catches on fire and melts into a black glob.



The texture is not a perfect match but unless you are looking for you cannot tell anything has been done.
 

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Dan Burwell said:
Besides a gunsmith's best friend (customer) is the armature dremel driver.
:mrgreen:

I hear ya' there.



Sounds like a risky venture for the amature. I guess I'll have to wait for your Canadian branch of opperations to open :wink: .



I guess if the tail is cut/sanded flat enough and the edges not 'dehorned' to heavily, the contrast in a sanded finish would not be to much of an eye sore.



Anyone have pics of their home chop jobs? Even the bad ones :wink: (for lessons learned).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think in Dan's last post he was describing the different texture that he does to the M&P

and not removal of the beavertail.

Dan correct me if I'm wrong.



No way in heck I'm putting a butane torch to my frame. :wink:



IAShooter









Nats said:
[quote name='Dan Burwell']Besides a gunsmith's best friend (customer) is the armature dremel driver.
:mrgreen:

I hear ya' there.



Sounds like a risky venture for the amature. I guess I'll have to wait for your Canadian branch of opperations to open :wink: .



I guess if the tail is cut/sanded flat enough and the edges not 'dehorned' to heavily, the contrast in a sanded finish would not be to much of an eye sore.



Anyone have pics of their home chop jobs? Even the bad ones :wink: (for lessons learned).[/quote]
 

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IAShooter said:
Dan correct me if I'm wrong.
OK, :wink:

That is not how I do the grip texturing. I do that whit a soldering iron with a shaped tip.



The butane torch is how I restore the beavertail's texture to resemble the stock texture of the frame. (the tiny pebble look).
 
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