Sear Disconnect Removal ?

5979 Views 18 Replies 13 Participants Last post by 1911master, Jul 26, 2007

TEX

Discussion Starter · Nov 30, 2006

In a post from ArnisAndyz - "I ended up just taking the entire sear disconnect grouping out including the mag safety instead of putting the little spring in. Just have to pull the slide back slightly to put a little tension on the striker, then pull the trigger for takedown."

I recently purchased a M&P-9 and have been reading most of the posts on this forum. Nice gun that has great potential. I have been pretty much a happy Glock shooter, but if I warm up to this M&P like I suspect I will, my Glocks may start collecting dust. Gaston Glock may actually have to come down off his high horse and start building what US customers want. It looks like S&W got the Sigma completely out of their system and thought this one out. I have a few minor gripes about the M&P, but they are either very minor or cosmetic. I am very pleased to see that S&W has already started to respond to suggestions for improvements (better slide lock/release now on current models, etc.)

I am not big on magazine safeties however, and did found the “great” instructions for removing it. While searching I also ran across the post above by ArnisAndyz. I don't really like having to finger the sear disconnect or pull out the grip tool to accomplish take down and this is one of the very few things that I don’t like on the M&P. I do not understand exactly what the sear disconnect is doing, but I assume it is pushing the sear off the trigger bar or vis-versa, so that the slide will come off.

I like ArnisAndyz's approach. It would be sort of like a Glock where you pull the trigger and then pull the slide back slightly while pulling down latch to get the slide off, where as with this M&P method you would apparently just pull the trigger, retract the slide a bit and off it would come. As long as the 4 core safety rules were followed (modifying #2), you should not have a safety issue with removing the slide this way – as far as I can tell.

So finally I get to the real question. Are there any other safety or mechanical issues that I am missing on this. It seems to me that by removing both the mag safety and sear disconnect, you have made the piece less complicated. And, I also wondered if some type of mal function of the sear disconnect could cause the gun to stop, fail to fire, etc.

I suspect the take down method with the sear disconnect (and the mag safety) were lawyer generated. I am impressed with the level of M&P knowledge by many of the board members and would like hear opinions on my concern and observation concerning removal of both items as described by ArnisAndyz's

Thanks - TEX

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1 - 19 of 19 Posts

Jester

· #2 · Dec 1, 2006

There isn't anything to be unreliable about it, take out the sear block and you'll see how simple the mech really is.

There isn't anything else connected to this area to affect the reliabliity.

rjhauser

· #3 · Dec 1, 2006

pull trigger

slide back a little

point down over pillow

slide will come right off.

I found it by accident, but it has always worked...

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stingerjg

· #4 · Dec 1, 2006

Earlier in the week i went to take out my mag safety and ended up taking it all out. Its nice not having to push the yellow lever down when i want to field strip.

ArnisAndyz

· #5 · Dec 6, 2006

I'm definately NOT the first one to do this...but I'd be happy to take the credit! All the sear disco does is push against the sear so you don't have to pull the trigger to release it. The disconnect was made as a selling point to agencies considering the lowest common denominator poice officer that might otherwise have an AD. If you follow proper procedure there's no problem. With the sear disco out it takes down exactly like an XD or SIG. > clear the chamber - visually ID that its clear > lock the slide back and flip the takedown lever and let the slide come forward > pull the trigger and the slide comes off.

Probably the only drawback is having to dryfire the gun, which might/might not cause wear on the striker (read my other post)....I broke one but dodn't think its directly related to removing the sear disconnect.

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gunwolf72

· #6 · Dec 23, 2006

? so you leave the sear it self in or out when doing this

ArnisAndyz

· #7 · Dec 26, 2006

gunwolf72 said:
? so you leave the sear it self in or out when doing this

Pull the sear block out and knock the pin out thats holding the sear, sear disconnect, mag safety and spring - put it back together with just the sear (leave out the sear disconnect, mag safety and spring) if you want to eliminate those "features". There is a little spring under the sear, be sure to keep the sear block horizontal and be careful not to let it drop out with the other parts, its a pain to put back in (but can be done). Basically, follow Dan Burwells instructions on removing the magazine safety and just leave out the sear disconnect and spring.

IAShooter

· #8 · Dec 26, 2006

stingerjg said:
Earlier in the week i went to take out my mag safety and ended up taking it all out. Its nice not having to push the yellow lever down when i want to field strip.

Just finished mine. Much better. I took all the parts out,

threw them in a bag and put it in my gun parts drawer.

While I was at it, I also did the trigger job, with the exception

of lightening the pull. Trigger now has no grind and a

much cleaner break.

My M&P 40 will eventually replace my 1911 as my night stand gun, so

I want a little heavier trigger.

I could probably do a little more work on the sear to take

up some more overtravel, but I am to the point that I am comfortable

with my progress so far and do not wish to file on the sear

any further.

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IAShooter

· #9 · Dec 26, 2006

gunwolf72 said:
? so you leave the sear it self in or out when doing this

gunwolf72,

I took the block out of the gun, but left the sear in the block.

In front of the pin that holds the sear is another pin that holds

the mag saftey, sear disconnect and a spring.

Remove it all and you should be good to go.

What you will have is the pin, a spring, mag safety lever and

the yellow sear disconnect lever.

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gunwolf72

· #10 · Dec 26, 2006

Thank You

ArnisAndyz

· #11 · Dec 26, 2006

IAShooter said:
[quote name='gunwolf72']? so you leave the sear it self in or out when doing this

gunwolf72,

In front of the pin that holds the sear is another pin that holds

the mag saftey, sear disconnect and a spring.[/quote]

Sorry...your right, it was so long ago I forgot there was a seperate pin holding all of those extra parts.

UPSguy

· #12 · Jan 8, 2007

Just curious, why go through the time it takes to remove it when you can still do the takedown just by pulling the trigger even with it in?

ArnisAndyz

· #13 · Jan 8, 2007

UPSguy said:
Just curious, why go through the time it takes to remove it when you can still do the takedown just by pulling the trigger even with it in?

I took the mag disconnect out and was too lazy to put in another spring (you need to replace the mag disconnect parts with a small spring to put tension on the takedown lever), so I just took it all out.

UPSguy

· #14 · Jan 8, 2007

OK, understood.

Lineman

· #15 · Jan 12, 2007

Tex

You wrote "I am not big on magazine safeties however, and did found the “great” instructions for removing it. "

Where did you find these "great' instuctions? I want to do that to my M&P .40 that I just picked up.

jtaliani

· #16 · Jan 12, 2007

Lineman,

Go to the FAQ section:http://mp-pistol.com/boards/viewtopic.php?t=85.

Triggerman66

· #17 · Jun 6, 2007

Gents,

As information, the yellow print you are using is impossible for some of us to see / read.

Thanks

choochboost

· #18 · Jun 6, 2007

They are the words you searched for which is why they are yellow.

1911master

· #19 · Jul 26, 2007

Mag Disconnect

I want to thank everyone who has posted to this thread. I just completed this removal and it took all of ten minutes. Thanks again. Jim

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

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