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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I recently got a used shield 1.0 in 9mm. I've been having some issues and I don't have the know-how to diagnose them. The previous owner installed a stainless steel guide rod and a Hyve Technologies monarch trigger. I am unsure of their expertise, but nothing appears obviously out of place or damaged.

The issues are as such:

1. Trigger getting stuck to the rear intermittently. Can be nudged forward to fire again. (aftermarket Hyve trigger installed by previous owner)

2. Light primer strikes/off-center primer strikes causing occasional failures to fire. A second attempt will usually fire the round with no issue.

I have inspected the firing pin and cleaned out the striker channel and lubricated the gun in every place I can think that would affect the trigger sticking. I'm have no idea about the primer issues. Slide goes fully into battery every time. Sometimes I just get that click-no-bang light strikes/off center. Any help appreciated.
 

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Check the frame for a crack near the trigger guard. I've read elsewhere that the V1.0 can crack near the trigger guard causing the trigger bar loop to miss releasing the sear. The pix shows a repaired crack. Also, the Hyve Monarch trigger requires trimming of the trigger bar loop so the external safety (if installed) can operate. It might be that the loop was not trimmed or not trimmed enough. It should have been shortened from typically 0.585" to 0.525", or 0.060".

17342
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think there is a crack upon the portion of the frame you mentioned but I will double-check the next chance I get. As far as the trigger bar loop, I am unsure if the previous owner modified it at all. I have a no-safety model, so I wonder if the trimming would still be a requirement for proper operation. Thanks for the reply.
 

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I don't think there is a crack upon the portion of the frame you mentioned but I will double-check the next chance I get. As far as the trigger bar loop, I am unsure if the previous owner modified it at all. I have a no-safety model, so I wonder if the trimming would still be a requirement for proper operation. Thanks for the reply.
The trigger spring returns the trigger to it's home position after firing. Remove the slide and see if there's anything obstructing the spring action. Also, look at the trigger bar and loop to see if anything is causing it from returning home after firing. That would include the striker block safety in the slide putting a drag on trigger bar extension that pushes it up. The trigger bar loop should not require trimming to operate normally with the Monarch trigger without the external safety. I installed the Monarch trigger in my 40 yesterday and she dry fired OK without trimming the trigger bar loop but the external safety did not set until I shortened the loop. My range is closed on Monday and Tuesday so I won't be able to test fire the 40 until tomorrow. I now have all three shield models, 9mm, 40 S&W and 45ACP. The 9 and 40 are V1.0's but the 45 only came out as a V2.0. The internals between the 9 and 40 V1.0's versus the 45 is slight but noticeable. The 45's trigger bar does not have that zig-zag offset and the slide stop where it contacts the magazine follower is slightly different. There might be differences in the striker safety block (polished?) and spring (lighter?). All things considered these are terrific guns. If the Monarch trigger in the 40 feels like an improvement over the soft and spongy articulated stock trigger, I'll install one in both my 9 and 45. Stay tuned...
 

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Hello. I recently got a used shield 1.0 in 9mm. I've been having some issues and I don't have the know-how to diagnose them. The previous owner installed a stainless steel guide rod and a Hyve Technologies monarch trigger. I am unsure of their expertise, but nothing appears obviously out of place or damaged....
OP. Great question. My opinion (and just that, an opinion), is that all your concerns in the first three sentances says it all. You are having multiplbe issues with a self defense weapon. You don't have the "know-how" to diagnose. The previous owner did his/her own gunsmithing that clearly he/she was not qualified to perform.

Bring the weapon to a qualified gunsmith and have them inspect and quote you a price to bring your weapon back to a reliable safe self defense weapon.

Just sayin...

Stay Safe, Sanitized, and aware.

Jay
 

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I have a “1.0” PC Shield 9 that I installed an Apex striker block in to get rid of the gritty trigger take up. Other than that, it’s stock. I’ve had no issues with it, or any of the other M&Ps I own, and I’ve modified most with Apex parts much more than the PC Shield. No problems with any; so I’ll second the opinion that whoever the previous owner of yours was wasn’t skilled enough to perform the modifications he undertook.

Either take it to someone who can get it sorted out, or buy a stock one. No way I’d carry it the way it is now. I’m sorry you’re having trouble with your “new to you” pistol; but it is what it is...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I'm going to bring it to the local M&P Armorer and see if they can sort it out. Hopefully it isn't FUBAR. I'm not sure what I'd do with a pistol that has no use to me. I can carry my Rhino 30DS in the meantime, so at least I'll have a carry gun still.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay so I think I've sorted out the issue. I had a local M&P armorer put the factory trigger back in and that fixed all issues with the trigger. The (unqualified) guy that installed the Hyve Tech trigger didn't do it properly and caused more friction to take place within the mechanism. After that, a new issue had arisen. The slide not going fully into battery after each shot, causing the trigger to be dead. I took out the aftermarket spring and put the factory spring back in. The gun functions properly now, albeit with a bit more felt recoil. (A gun that works properly is better than a soft shooter obviously.) The striker drags a bit on the primers now but that's normal from what I've read about smaller pistols.(I think) Thank you all for the suggestions and tips. It was all very helpful. I just gotta run more rounds through it to get more confident with the idea of carrying something that was previously a "No-Go" firearm.
 

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Glad you got it sorted out. My Hyve trigger slipped right in and there's no issue with it. Frankly, I don't know how it could be installed incorrectly. I have since ordered two more Hyve triggers, one for my 40 and 45 shields. Re-spring, sounds like a too light after market spring was installed causing it not to go into battery. I have never had any recoil spring issues with my S&W guns (my Ruger's all have Galloway recoil springs and guide rods). I recently took possession of a M&P 45Compact V2 and note the trigger bar does not have the loop like my V1 9, 40 and V2 45. The V1's trigger bar loop slides under the sear to elevate it to release the striker but the 45C's trigger pushes cam surface on the sear which causes it to rotate up. The push has less metal to metal contact than the loop making it a smoother action.

Like you state, take it to the range and become convinced it's 100% reliable. I do the same with all my carry guns from time to time.
 

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Glad you got it sorted out....
Like you state, take it to the range and become convinced it's 100% reliable. I do the same with all my carry guns from time to time.
Agreed. There is nothing like having a professional do what professional's do best and that is to bring your weapon back into spec's. I don't have any problem with knowledgeable/talented owners working on their own weapons, cars, houses, etc. But, at a certain point, you and I have to know when to check our ego at the door and get some professional assistance. You did the correct thing and I'll bet that after a fairly short time, you will be confident in your weapon to save your life or the life of your loved ones. Which in the end, isn't that what we want our personal self defense weapon to do when called upon?

Now while this is not part of your original problem or question, I would consider doing some dry firing drills and get that "trigger feeling" into your "muscle memory". And may I also suggest checking into different self defense ammo. For me, with my original version Shield, :I've settled on Hornady Custom 147 gr XTP. But when all is said and done, most any JHP round will likely do the job and get you home.

Post back with some range reports down the line as I'm always curious as to outcomes of peoples problems and their real world solutions. Or maybe I'm just a pest and a busy body.....:D

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am still learning about the striker-fired handguns inner-workings, as I'm used to DA/SA or DAO pistols. I have a moderate amount of training/firearms knowledge between law enforcement and the military but as far as troubleshooting striker-fired handguns, I don't know all the parts and what they do just yet. I've been carrying a 6-shot .357 Chiappa Rhino, which is a great gun. However, revolvers are a different breed compared to the training I have on semi-autos. God forbid I have some sort of malfunction with a revolver (however unlikely) and instinctively attempt to "Tap, Rack and Reassess". I don't want to invite Murphy's Law into my self defense situation.

I usually choose Speer Gold-Dot, Hornady Critical Def/Duty or Federal hydra-shok for carry ammo. Whichever is available when I visit the shop. I use the Speers with the .357.
 

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{Snip}
I have inspected the firing pin and cleaned out the striker channel and lubricated the gun in every place I can think that would affect the trigger sticking. I'm have no idea about the primer issues. Slide goes fully into battery every time. Sometimes I just get that click-no-bang light strikes/off center. Any help appreciated.{Snip}
After you cleaned that striker channel and lubed everything you could, do you remember if the striker channel was one if the places you lubed?
 

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After you cleaned that striker channel and lubed everything you could, do you remember if the striker channel was one if the places you lubed?
Good question. The both the striker assembly and channel shouldn’t be “lubed.”
 

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I have duplicated the OP's problem with the Hyve trigger getting stuck and not resetting. As I stated in my previous posting, I installed a Hyve Monarch trigger on my Shield 40 (V1.0) and had no issues with it. I have since ordered and received Monarch triggers for my Shield 9 (V1.0) and Shield 45 (V2.0). I arbitrarily installed the blue trigger in the 45 and quickly noticed the trigger bar, where the return spring attaches, was just touching the trigger. When I assembled the gun, I had the same problem, there was drag on the trigger when it was pulled and would not reset without pushing it back into firing position. It is possible there was a tolerance issue with the trigger bar or a machining issue with the trigger. Regardless which it was, by removing that contact, the trigger worked like it should.

The below photo shows where the contact was made. I trimmed the trigger at the contact point with a fine tooth file, reassembled the gun and it dry fired OK. No drag when pulled and reset without any problem.
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This photo shows where I trimmed the trigger. During reassembly, I use dental floss tied to the spring then pull it in line with the trigger pivot pin which then slips into place easily.
17433


These are my shields: Top left, Shield 9mm (V1.0), Top right: Shield 45 (V2.0), bottom: Shield 40 (V1.0). All three have Hogue Ruger Security Nine grip sleeves which fit perfectly. The sleeves are in FDE and Green so I can easily spot them in my gun locker (too many guns!!).
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Update to my posting above. I took both my Shield 9 and 45 to the range this morning and both fired as expected with their new triggers, no issues in the smoothness of the pull or reset.

Also for the observant eye, the reset spring open loop end was properly inserted in the retainer hole when it was all reassembled. It is shown outside the hole in the above pix. It slipped out of the hole in the process of trimming the trigger and was captured in the pix in that position.

Lastly, the Hogue grip sleeves are for the Ruger Security Nine COMPACT models not the FS models.
 
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