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Discussion Starter #1
Just done a Dan trigger job on the new iron. Feels nice and smooth...
Also fitted the Warren rear sight. Only took an hour for complete works.



I was wondering if there is a tweek to reduce the amount of trigger take-up before engaging? Shortening the trigger pull? 8)
 

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You can take out some of the pretravel if you put a set screw in the front of the trigger inside the frame. You have to be careful how much you take out. If you set back the trigger too far the trigger bar will engage the firing pin stop plunger there by disabling a safety (Really bad Juju). Then once you get it back to where you want it you also need to recut the trigger safety so it works again.



I have done this for quite a few people who intent to use their guns in competition only and everyone seems to be pleased with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dan. I was thinking of putting a screw type thing in and looked at the lower trigger safety thing as well. I was also looking at the trigger bar but thought that any mods to that was way too risky...



Does the trigger assem. need to be removed to get the set screw in? 8)
 

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243ww said:
Does the trigger assem. need to be removed to get the set screw in? 8)
That would be a big yes, the screw goes into the front of the trigger just above the step off in the front and below where the slide stop assy comes around front. if you take the trigger out you will see this step off.



I just cannot stress enough the importance of not disabling any of the safeties while doing this. It is a really really bad idea not to mention illegal in all competitive sports.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dan Burwell said:
[quote name='243ww']Does the trigger assem. need to be removed to get the set screw in? 8)
That would be a big yes, the screw goes into the front of the trigger just above the step off in the front and below where the slide stop assy comes around front. if you take the trigger out you will see this step off.



I just cannot stress enough the importance of not disabling any of the safeties while doing this. It is a really really bad idea not to mention illegal in all competitive sports.[/quote]



Mate that's sounds too easy! I think I know what your on about... I will do that tomorrow ready for the shoot on Saturday!



No worries about the safeties, It must have all the original bits working at all times, I need them to keep the gun!



By the way, thanks heaps for the info on the trigger job. Easy to follow the instructions and works a treat! Haven't shot it yet but put a heap of snaps through it and feels good!



Any ideas on the brass hitting me in the eye? 370 shots put through it and all consistently coming back? Is this a fix?





http://mp-pistol.com/boards/posting.php?mo...ote&p=61026



indianbullet said:
The problem is with the face of the Ejector... most of them dont have the proper angle on the face of it ..

it is the pivot point to get the brass headed in the right direction its a simple fix .

I have fixed several weapons with this problem ,

The very face of the ejector needs to have a pronounced angle on it with the longest part being on the ejection port side .. not the left side .. not longer on the bottom or top ect ..

I has to be longest looking down from the top on the right side ..

it takes all of about 10 stone strokes to fix it ..

hope this helps those tired of eating brass .


Thanks Dan
 

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Dan is spot-on with his answer, other than some divisions of USPSA allow disabling of safeties.

I have an M&P40 thats set up for Limited div. with a pinned trigger. I'm not messing with the striker plungers though, my pretravel stop is set up like Dan said, the trigger bar bump resting right against the plunger.



Pretravel adjustment isn't really even necessary for those of us who shoot with the most popular method of catching the reset. I'm a slapper though, and it makes a big difference to me.
 

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lol!

Youre thinking "spank".



Or if youre Peter Gabriel, youd be "shocking" monkeys.
 

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"Lawrence! stop slapping the monkey"

10 points for the movie 8)
 

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Never saw it; because of that, (or vice-versa) Im assuming that Jessica Alba isn't in it and there are no full-auto shootouts. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Dan Burwell said:
You can take out some of the pretravel if you put a set screw in the front of the trigger inside the frame. You have to be careful how much you take out. If you set back the trigger too far the trigger bar will engage the firing pin stop plunger there by disabling a safety (Really bad Juju). Then once you get it back to where you want it you also need to recut the trigger safety so it works again.



I have done this for quite a few people who intent to use their guns in competition only and everyone seems to be pleased with the results.


Thanks for the info Dan. Done the trigger pre-travel today, cycled some snaps through it and it works nice... Set the trigger bar about 1.5mm off the sear, nice-just noticeable travel and then pop!



I used the set screw out of the stock rear sight, a 7/64 drill bit and away we went...



Here are some pics of the work. Bit rough in places but it all works...



8) :wink:





























This is before pressing the trigger:





This is with a trigger pull to the stop. Sear is flat, trigger just stops on the guard rest, nice...





Here is the warren and back end of my mini bob





The finished animal

 

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Now just put some two part epoxy or some JB weld on the set screw so it doesn't "go walk about" :wink:



You did also make sure the trigger bar wasn't touching the firing pin plunger right?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Epoxy on the screw, no worries will do that tomorrow arvo.



Yea it sits a good couple of mill away from the plunger at least... Feels nice.



I will let you know how it works out tomorrow... I also did a little tweak on the ejector, just smoothed it out a little, no meat off so to speak, so this will be interesting, I don't think it will do the trick though.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
WOW



Trigger breaks like glass and resets smooth. Pre-travel all but just a tad over 5mm, over travel bang on gone! Heaps of comments on the Gun, shoots fantastic. Brass still coming back though, maybe a bit less than before so i will mod the ejector some more???
 

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Discussion Starter #16
About a 3Lb trigger (2.5kg) Just like the three bears, not too heavy, not too light! 8) 8) 8)
 

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I've been looking at this thread and want to ask, just to make sure I'm getting it all.



To shorten the pre-travel, the only part you're adding is a set-screw on the leading edge of the trigger to prevent it from travelling all of the way forward.



The only part you're actually changing (besides the drilling operation) is the safety stop on the trigger so that it will drop down with the trigger in the new rest position.



That's just too simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
FieroCDSP said:
I've been looking at this thread and want to ask, just to make sure I'm getting it all.



To shorten the pre-travel, the only part you're adding is a set-screw on the leading edge of the trigger to prevent it from traveling all of the way forward.



The only part you're actually changing (besides the drilling operation) is the safety stop on the trigger so that it will drop down with the trigger in the new rest position.



That's just too simple.


Yep. Once the screw is put in the front of the trigger, the safety stop barb thingy stops working so you have to remove a small area from the frame, not the trigger for it to sit back into. The trick is to get the angle right so it wont slip of the new recess... I used a dremil milling bit kind of like a router and went in at the same angle as the trigger safety.



Look at how the trigger works before you do any mods and get it all in your head before you start. Another point is to make sure that the trigger bar is not in contact with the plunger or sear mechanism, as reducing pre-travel effectively pushes the trigger closer to activation...



All goo fun. 8) 8) 8) 8)
 

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Looks good -- I've gotten used to the pre-travel aleady, but this is something that I had considered doing. However, the more I think about it, the more I want to do it. Great write up. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks mate.



The drill I used is a hand drill, kind of like an awl. It's an old file handle with a chuck set into it... This way you don't tend to over drill and reck what's on the other side. I actually did drill right through so as to reduce any stress and prevent any cracking from developing... Just me in my crazy world. I used Loctite 243 on the thread and as Dan said, a drop of Loctite 406 (Suppa Glue) on the finished setup...



I think you will like the feel of it very nice! Just play with it a few times, check everything with a casual fit before you fit it all back for keeps.



The most dificult thing is getting the recess good for the trigger to work right. Carefull removing bits of the frame!!! It don't grow back and I believe you can't get replacements...



8)
 
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