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Discussion Starter #1
Unlike three 4" 2.0s and one 4.25" 2.0 in the safe, two 5" 2.0s have such stiff slide stops that I can't release the slide from lock using the slide stop. Spare me the advice to slingshot the slide closed. Years of shooting 1911s using the slide stop to release the slide is ingrained into habit. I do not wish to change the practice for two 2.0s. Returning one to S&W to address the problem has NOT resulted in any improvement. Wasted time and money. I ask for some advice from those who conquered this problem because I like the 5" 2.0 but they can't remain in the holster as they are..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No answer for you but my Perf Ctr 9 2.0 is the same way with about 350 rounds through it so far.

SB
Shooting mine did not alleviate the problem. And the tech who worked on the 5" that I returned must have been a gorilla if he thought that slide stop was easy to release. I think that I should visit a good gunsmith who has a skill with a file! The question is whether the slide stop should have a slight taper applied to it. Something is different in design or recoil spring weight with the 5' compared to the 4" and 4.25" 2.0s.
 

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S&W stiffened up the slide stops on the 2.0 models intentionally. The 1.0 guns would allow the slide to close on a loaded magazine when it was inserted rapidly. Some shooters loved this feature and others thought it was dangerous. S&W didn't like it and "fixed it" with the 2.0's. Both of my 5" 2.0s have very stiff slide stops on the left side and an impossibly stiff right (left handed) side. I don't know if the 5" guns are particularly stiff but the hard slide release is an intentional design.
 

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My 2.0 5" FDE 9MM was "impossible" at first. After lots of attempts, finger on the thumb to help (two hands) slide releases it has gotten easier. I can now do it, with some effort, with the right thumb only.

For some reason the 2.0 .45 Compact wasn't nearly as bad. It was just difficult from the beginning and hasn't been shot enough (yet) to get any easier, like the 9MM did.

Seems like I read, somewhere, that forcing the slide stop to work as a slide release would eventually break the slide stop. Can't say that's a fact, I just read it somewhere on the internet. Of course, I also read you could install a 1.0 slide stop/release on the 2.0 and that was BS. Frames and slides are just different.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the feedback, M1A4ME. Arthritic hands need a cheat, so I'll visit a gunsmith of some reputation and have him work some magic on the slide stop. This isn't a competition pistol, so wear should be minimal and if it becomes a problem I'll replace the slide stop and start anew. Seems to me that the greater stress on the slide stop occurs when it locks the slide open as compared to releasing the slide. Thanks to all who have responded, comments were valuable.
 

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Thanks for that info. Will you live with it, or will you make the slide stop easy to operate?
I'll live with it since I always "slingshot" the slides on these guns as well as others I have owned. I'm not sure you can make it easier to operate without seriously modifying the slide and stop arrangement.

Actually, the best "improvement" I've made to my M&P's is to install Springer Precision slide rackers that replace the rear slide/striker cover. They make racking the slides very easy and fast.
 
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