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Stippling

3400 Views 49 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Pranqster
Hey guys, recently I took some sandpaper to my Shield Plus because the texture was scraping me up pretty good during concealed carry. I lIke the feel of the grip now (maybe a 1/10 or 2/10 aggressiveness, and can actually shoot it well but want to reintroduce a bit more texturing. I have considered Hogue, or Talon (Pro Texture), but wanted to see if anyone know a good company for Stippling that was not too aggressive. Thanks for the feedback!
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FWIW - The Shield Hogue Handall only has one finger ridge. I have one on my Shield Plus and really like the feel and grip size. Just be prepared for a little work during the installation. I used the boiling water process with two clear plastic assist strips on the sides of the grip. Best $10 I have spent.
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Well, TTI will only work on certain guns - Glock being their main bread and butter. I believe they will texture a 365. I can't remember if they offer Shield textuturing. I think I previously saw it on their website, but can't say for sure.

I think the only one they will texture the front and backstraps on is a Glock, though. Maybe you can call them and work something out. But if you go by their website only, I don't think that is an option on anything but Glocks.

The thing I like about the Hogue Jr is the 1 finger groove and the very small palm swells. For me, it makes the Shield Plus grip perfect. Hogue makes a grip specifically for the SHield - I don't know if it fits the Shield Plus. It probably does. But, I don't want the ribber grip to go all the way up the grip tang. I like the Hogue Jr grip better.
Will do. I may give TTI a call. But first I will look into the Hogue Jr. and try the Inner tube out tomorrow. Based on the pricing, it doesn't seem worth the money, especially if I can get something for sub $10 that is just as effective. I'm about function / economy over looks.
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Use the favored "internet gun forum method" for installation.

Fill up a pot of water - boil it. Once the water is already boiling, drop the Hogue grip into the boiling water. Leave it in for exactly 60 seconds. You will need to use a spoon to hold it down, as it will want to float. (DON'T leave it in the water the entire time the water heats up to start boiling)

But, don't hold it against the bottom or the sides of the pot.

After 60 seconds, take it out and dry it. In a few seconds, it will be cool enough to touch. Install it now. It is hot, so it stretches better. Then, when it cools, it will shrink down.

On some guns, the rubber grip can slide around on the gun. This method minimizes that. Plus, the texture on the SHield helps prevent that too. Once you get it on, it ain't moving. So, make sure you adjust it how you want initially. If you want to try to move it later, that grip texture on the Shield Plus makes it much harder once the rubber cools.

I just did this a week ago again on my latest Shield Plus with night sights I picked up.
10-4 👍🏾
Yes, I hate the fullsize Handall with the multiple finger grooves and huge palm swells. They make the gun grip too big for my hands. The Hogue Jr is much better.

I have used them on multiple guns over the years - here are a couple of others I happen to have pics handy of...



Nice. Love the PX4. I am really debating getting a Langdon Beretta. Great reviews.
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I used to throw a Talon on everything, but now I use Hogue Wrapter DIY panels in the block texture. Game changer for me. Love it, Never going back.
Do they stick well just through normal installation? I had some Handle It Grips on my LCP Max and initially tired some Talons on my Shield, but with heavy dry fire they eventually came off of the shield and shifted a bit on the LCP.
FWIW - The Shield Hogue Handall only has one finger ridge. I have one on my Shield Plus and really like the feel and grip size. Just be prepared for a little work during the installation. I used the boiling water process with two clear plastic assist strips on the sides of the grip. Best $10 I have spent.
craig View attachment 20141
Looks good 👍🏾
Why don't you just take some 600 grit sandpaper and carefully sand off the sharp points on the sides of the grip. I did that on a Shield 2.0 and it worked very well. It just takes the sharp points off and still leaves plenty of grip so it isn't slippery. You don't need to sand it a lot. I have also used the rubber Talon grips and I like those too.
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Put the Talon Black Rubber Grips on my Shield 9 1.0 and all the 8 round mags about 7 years ago and followied the directions carefully. No problems so far as they still look great and function as advertised for my XL hands. Take your time on the install, especially on the 8 round mags, as I lined them up to the bottom of the mag base and trimmed the top to avoid an overlap on the space between the mag and the magwell. No loosening at all so far.
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Why don't you just take some 600 grit sandpaper and carefully sand off the sharp points on the sides of the grip. I did that on a Shield 2.0 and it worked very well. It just takes the sharp points off and still leaves plenty of grip so it isn't slippery. You don't need to sand it a lot. I have also used the rubber Talon grips and I like those too.
I actually did do that just too much, LOL. Now it’s smooth. At the time I intended to make it as comfortable as possible for carry but really should have done just a little at a time.
Put the Talon Black Rubber Grips on my Shield 9 1.0 and all the 8 round mags about 7 years ago and followied the directions carefully. No problems so far as they still look great and function as advertised for my XL hands. Take your time on the install, especially on the 8 round mags, as I lined them up to the bottom of the mag base and trimmed the top to avoid an overlap on the space between the mag and the magwell. No loosening at all so far.
I was looking at the new Pro texture Talons. They really looked like they might be worth the try.
Put the Talon Black Rubber Grips on my Shield 9 1.0 and all the 8 round mags about 7 years ago and followied the directions carefully. No problems so far as they still look great and function as advertised for my XL hands. Take your time on the install, especially on the 8 round mags, as I lined them up to the bottom of the mag base and trimmed the top to avoid an overlap on the space between the mag and the magwell. No loosening at all so far.
Wow, still on after all that time.

Years ago, I used some stick-on grips on a USPc pistol. If I remember right, they were made by Decal Grips. I had to replace them every few months, because the edges would come loose
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That has been exactly what happened for me too
I had a custom set of rubber stick-on grips for my $285 S&W SD9 FDE & they just fell off leaving very little tacky adhesive behind.
Never tried any on my H&Ks
Cleaned with alcohol first & never sprayed any gun scrubber etc. on the frame
Have seen the New Hogue rubber grips are available, but for me I like the rough texture of the M2.0 & Plus Shields
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9
Will do. I may give TTI a call. But first I will look into the Hogue Jr. and try the Inner tube out tomorrow. Based on the pricing, it doesn't seem worth the money, especially if I can get something for sub $10 that is just as effective. I'm about function / economy over looks.
Me too!

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Well; maybe not…
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Me too!

View attachment 20143

Well; maybe not…

NICE!
Tell me about the Centennial, 640-1?

I used to have a thing with these little revolvers

I had a 1911 fetish too but all of mine were Colts
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I was looking at the new Pro texture Talons. They really looked like they might be worth the try.

Wow, still on after all that time.

Years ago, I used some stick-on grips on a USPc pistol. If I remember right, they were made by Decal Grips. I had to replace them every few months, because the edges would come loose

Lock n' Load replies:
wnesbittiv- I think the Pro Texture Talons are pretty aggressive sandpaper type and might be uncomfortable for EDC.

Ship Wreck- I used a hair dryer on high heat setting for install. If I remember correctly, it was 5 cycles of heat (but not too much as it can melt the grip polymer), press grips, paying careful attention to edges and overlaps, let cool for about 5 minutes, and begin next cycle. Also, press aggressively before starting the heat cycles once everything is in in place, paying extra attention to edges and overlaps. Once you start the heat cycles, your only objective is to get the adhesive down into the stippling on the grips and mags then let it sit to give the adhesive time to cure. For removal, Talon recommends peeling gently, using alcohol (not for you, for the gun :)). To clean, I just gently use a slightly dampened microfiber cloth and let it air dry.
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NICE!
Tell me about the Centennial, 640-1?

I used to have a thing with these little revolvers

I had a 1911 fetish too but all of mine were Colts
Well, I ran across it back when many gun shops were pretty low on inventory.
This one came with the factory engraving and fancy boot grips, as well as both a standard S&W pistol case, plus a “Made in USA” walnut presentation case.
It shoots quite well, too.

As far as Colt 1911s; I have more Colt 1911s than any other single brand.
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I wear an undershirt; so firearm finish has no impact on my comfort.
That said; an even better result is that my body has no impact on my firearm finish.
My perspiration is only slightly less corrosive than battery acid…
I second this one. I always wear and under shirt tucked in and a loose larger button up. Makes any texture a non issue and helps with concealment more at the same time.
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I live on the water in SW Florida, and grew up down here well before there was in-home air conditioning. No A/C in my schools (including high school) either.

Wearing an undershirt actually keeps you cooler.
I know that seems counter-intuitive; but some old-timers set me straight on that many years ago, and they were right.
Yep, evaporative cooling.
Get a cloth that’s great at wicking away the sweat and it will actually help quite a bit.
Allowing the sweat to stay on the skin more actually slightly increases the temp.
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