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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Folks,

My stock trigger pull is mushy, sticky and grinds. It sounds like dirt and grime rubbing up against the moving components. Loud, audible trigger squeeze while disassembled.

Just picked up my new shield about a week or so ago. Unlike most of you I have not been able to take it right to the range and give it a whirl.

With that being said, Ive had plenty of time to disassemble, assemble, clean and function test this pistol.

Besides the "test" round from S&W this pistol has never been fired. The pistol is cleaned and lubed, yet the above mentioned issue still remains.

Any thoughts? And yes I cleaned/lubed it. And yes I did it right. And yes, Im sure. Ive got a video of it
 

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There's a place called Apex Tactical that makes all kinds of goodies for the Shield and the other M&P models as well. Crappy triggers were around long before the M&P and those places got started making parts to improve the trigger pull, so they were chomping at the bit waiting to offer goodies for the new pistols coming out. If you are the least bit mechanically inclined you can install these parts yourself and not have to send it off to a gunsmith, there are videos online to walk you through the installation.

https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Category?categoryId=21
 

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Mine was like that until I shot a few hundred rounds through it along with a few hundred dry fires. Yes, you can replace the trigger but it does improve with use.
You can also have someone disassemble the trigger and polish appropriate surfaces or even lighten the trigger pull if they know what they are doing.
No need to jump straight to Apex, IMO, until you've run it a decent amount and still decided it's not quite right for you.
 

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I've shot a Shield with a full Apex job and there's no doubt it's a great upgrade for range accuracy. For me though, my Shield is a daily carry gun and to be honest I won't be worrying whether I'm shooting a 2" group versus a 4" group if SHTF. I do like the aluminum center safety blade trigger though. Seems to me that that would bring a extra measure of reliability which I'd spend for. While not a lot, the 300 rounds I have shot has smoothed things out nicely. Right now the gun is better than my capability so the better money spent is on practice, lessons and ammo. :lol:
 

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Mine was like that until I shot a few hundred rounds through it along with a few hundred dry fires. Yes, you can replace the trigger but it does improve with use.
You can also have someone disassemble the trigger and polish appropriate surfaces or even lighten the trigger pull if they know what they are doing.
No need to jump straight to Apex, IMO, until you've run it a decent amount and still decided it's not quite right for you.
I agree, im not sure if they vary peice to peice but mime feels fine out of the box and better after a few hundred rounds. As far as it being my first carry peice, I want my trigger to be "tough"
 

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Welcome to the Forum!
If it's going to be a while until you can get to the range, do a bunch of Dry-Fire practice. It will help smooth out the trigger. Many people initially have a POI to the left of POA, which is usually due to the shooter twisting the small skinny pistol, so If you dry-fire and really focus on any front sight movement, it will also let you focus on which part of your trigger finger that allows for a straight rearward trigger pull. ;)

Definitely do not ponder trigger kits until you get it out and run a couple Hundred rounds through it. If you're still disappointed in trigger feel after a couple Hundred rounds, then consider an Apex Sear, or Full trigger kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the insight. I have heard great things about the APEX, but since I have not had the chance to run some rounds through it I do not want to commit to the APEX trigger, yet...

This is my first M&P, but Ive got a slew load of other pistols. Being a Army guy, I have had the chance to shoot numerous other's pistols. This was the first time I have ever seen, experienced a trigger so crappy. I hope that it gets "worn" in over time. I was worried I got a defect of sorts.
 

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I've heard that you can pick up 3 different NIB Shields and have 3 different trigger feels. I would not hesitate to call S&W and see what they say.
 

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Not all aspects of a trigger will improve with use. My FS trigger always had a gritty take up that was only noticeable to me when dry firing but still was bothersome for some reason.

After thousands of rounds waiting for it to go away I used a fine stone on the ramp of the trigger bar where it contacts the firing block. That's all it took.
 

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Round and polish your striker block and the hump on your trigger bar which contacts the striker block, also work on your sear. It will smooth out the trigger considerably. See: http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

Shooting it a bunch will continue to mate the parts and smooth it out.

I've never purchased an Apex kit because I do my own trigger work, but they do make a very nice trigger system if you don't feel like messing with it.
 

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My Shield (170 rounds) has an acceptable trigger. Heavy pull but clean break, detectable reset, no complaints. It has no thumb safety so a heavier trigger is a wise choice.

For sheer tactile pleasure my Kahr triggers are a delight, but for a defensive weapon the stock Shield trigger is fine to me.
 

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I've got 4 different M&P pistols, 2 full size and 2 Shields. Every trigger was different, and over a few hundred rounds, they pretty much got better with no additional help. One full size got an Apex duty/carry kit, the other got treated with the Burwell treatment, and other than the Apex polymer trigger, you really can't tell the difference. One Shield got the Burwell fix and the other was sweet to begin with and has nothing done to it.

Run some rounds through it and then decide what you want to do.
 

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Howdy and welcome "Texas" from S.E. Florida.
"THE TRIGGER" yep, A major problem that I find with M&P's.
I have been shooter for along time of 1911's & 2011's in both carry and competition. I bot only tune Glocks but also build them from the bottom up for competition shooters. A lot of work goes into the lower to get it to "point" like a 1911 from the draw.
So when Smith came out with the M&P Ported CORE, yep, I had to have one. I ordered one in 9mm (4.25") and started shooting it with a C-More STS red dot on top. Using it for Steel Challenge, became a challenge......The Pre-Travel on the trigger took "days" until it came to a breaking point which was throwing off my first shot.
I use all APEX parts in my revolvers and decided to put the entire package with their new Flat Face trigger in the CORE...WOW.......I now have close to 1k rounds through it, a trigger that is GREAT! and well with it.
SOOOOOOOO, I decide that instead of carrying my G43 (which is all tuned up) I purchase a Shield...The gun has a great Point of Aim from the Draw and very easy to shoot.
I undercut the trigger guard in the back to get a higher grip on the gun, put on a set of Talon Rubber grips ( I use them on most of my carry guns) and still had the problem of the trigger Pre-Travel. I used (from this site) USATAC, and ordered a new Apex Trigger only. The factory trigger pull on my Shield is about 5#'s (great for carry for me) and I carry it every day.
The trigger came in 4 days to Florida and figure it would be a quick 20 min. job just to put in the trigger and clean-up all of the parts inside. WRONG.......The Trigger PIN that you should be able to just ta into the new trigger would not move...no way, now how.
A quick call to Apex (after a while) and they tell me that you can pound the pin until he "cows come home" (only on the Shield trigger) and it will not move.
They pointed me to a PDF that Randy (from APEX) posted where he uses a VISE to push the pin into the trigger and also using Feeler gages to keep the trigger from being damaged.
Yep, that method took 10 minutes (including set up) and the trigger was ready to go. Shield Trigger Bar Install PDF – This is the recommended process for installing the trigger bar in an Apex replacement trigger for the S&W M&P Shield.
Apex also said that the pre-travel and reset would be reduced by at least 20%. And they were correct. Gun to the range a box or two through it and it is back in my IWB and back as my every-day carry.
Now I could have said all of this in about four lines,but it was early in the morning (when I started, lol) and wanted to tell you all that the Apex trigger in the Shield (all other internal parts bone stock, but polished) will gibe you what you want in a carry gun.
So that the my $0.02 and I am sticking to it......
Thanks for reading
Redstone
 

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My M&P40C had a little grit to it when I first got it. I polished the trigger bar where it comes in contact with that little silver button & that got rid of it. I used a very fine abrasive for a few swipes, then toothpaste & then a pencil eraser. I didn't want to remove too much material. Now it has a mirror finish with no grittiness.

If it continues to be a bothersome problem I'd give S&W a call. Or you could go to APEX trigger parts as has been suggested. My FS 40 & compact are fine for concealed defensive carry but if I were to go into competition (fat chance) I'd certainly consider APEX.
 

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I lmproved the trigger pull on my Shield by replacing the sear only with a fully machined one from Apex. Before sear change trigger pull was 8lbs +....now it's 4.5-5lbs. No polishing, no spring changes, just the sear......15 minute job( I am not a gunsmith ) and cost about forty bucks...... Mike
 

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For the biggest change, replace the factory striker block with the Apex USB. Gets rid of the grittyness and reduces the mushyness, like night and day. Even prolonged use of the factory part, while it may get you accustomed to the gritty trigger, it will never ever get you grit-free.
 

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IT will improve with use. Mine brakes at about 6 lbs and for a carry defensive gun that is GOOD!
There has been a lot of opinions about lightening the trigger on a defensive weapon and the consensus seems to be that if you end up in court for shooting someone, It is best to have a factory stock trigger!
 

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I have the mass compliant shield 9 so my trigger is 10.5 lb.Surprisingly it shoots very well after a 100 round break in.No plans to do anything with the trigger either.I work as a mechanic and have strong hands maybe thats why but the trigger feels fine
 

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I have 3 M&P, two full size and one Shield.

Shield - Originally a NH gun. I bought it unfired. It has around 2k rounds through it. The trigger while not the best is not gritty and pretty consistent. I plan on putting an Apex DCAEK int it and some new sights but it has not been my top priority.

FS with MA Trigger - This had to be the worse trigger of any gun I have ever bought. Gritty, rough and all that stuff. Sent it back to S&W with about 500 rounds and the replaced the sear and adjusted it. Got it back and it was not any better or worse. Tried to "shoot" it in and after about 1500 rounds gave up. I installed the Apex DCAEK and what a difference. No regrests. For $89 and 90 minutes of work it was worth it.

FS with Trigger job - This was a MA gun that I bought second hand. It had a trigger job when I got it. I was told there was no Apex installed but instead the guy replaced a few springs (or maybe only one) and polished some stuff down etc. The seller didn't really seem to know what had been done. The trigger is nice. A little different feel than the Apex however this also has the lighter Wolff striker spring in it.
 

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Welcome to the Forum!
If it's going to be a while until you can get to the range, do a bunch of Dry-Fire practice. It will help smooth out the trigger. Many people initially have a POI to the left of POA, which is usually due to the shooter twisting the small skinny pistol, so If you dry-fire and really focus on any front sight movement, it will also let you focus on which part of your trigger finger that allows for a straight rearward trigger pull. ;)

Definitely do not ponder trigger kits until you get it out and run a couple Hundred rounds through it. If you're still disappointed in trigger feel after a couple Hundred rounds, then consider an Apex Sear, or Full trigger kit.
I dry fire practice with a dime on the front sight.
 
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