Stryker safety
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
I agree very much Jester!
If you pull the trigger with the middle of your trigger finger versus the tip you can feel the problem much better (for others.) It's just a matter of doing it very slowly. Tell me how it goes and I may follow with the Arkansas stone or Dremel.
I am very interested in reducing the LBS# to around #4 1/2 like my glocks..Im sure there are gonna be trigger kits on the market soon. At least I hope so. Im not one to tinker on new toys( At least not that much)
Mike, S/F
If you pull the trigger with the middle of your trigger finger versus the tip you can feel the problem much better (for others.) It's just a matter of doing it very slowly. Tell me how it goes and I may follow with the Arkansas stone or Dremel.
I am very interested in reducing the LBS# to around #4 1/2 like my glocks..Im sure there are gonna be trigger kits on the market soon. At least I hope so. Im not one to tinker on new toys( At least not that much)
Mike, S/F
Well, before you start removing metal, have you tried using a good grease rather than oil on that part? It made a big difference for me.
I used some slide glide and slide glide lite. I think the lite worked better IMO.
The trigger pull basically has four parts as far as i can tell. the takeup that is mostly the trigger spring. Pushing up the FPS. Where the bent metal bit engages the sear, and moving of the sear.
between a buttload of dryfire with molly grease on parts that made contact (probably about 500-700 trigger pulls), removal and cleaning of striker, cleaning out of manufacturing grugne in the striker channel (was lots of plastic dust in there for some reason). I got it smoothed out a bit from box stock. There's stilla bit of gritty feeling that i believe is the FPB being pushed up the last little big while you start to engage the sear.
I think the FPB would benefit form a chamfer rather than a bevel, and a good polish. Jusding from the dryfire ith it coated in molly grease, the FPB rotates during use (deliberately or not i dont know). Which meand a bad hand "chamfering" via dremel might do bad things to the trigger pull.
Later I stoned the nubbin on the trigger bar to get rid of the rough spots form being stamped. This gave me smooth surfaces but a sharp corner, which didn';t work out so well. then polished the sharp corner off and that fixed it. takeup/pretravel is smoother and more even than before, but the "notch" where it picks up the load of the striker spring is still there.
According to other folks, with a stock glock striker spring (5.5lb) and a lighter trigger spring, they have gotten the trigger down to a bit under 4lbs.
*edit* went back and checked, using a stock glock striker spring cut down to the M&P length, they are lighting off ammo reliably and with a stock glock trigger spring and polishing, have the trigger down to about 3lb 10oz. *edit*
I have a stock glock spring on order to try out. I'm not going to try polishing the FPB without having a spare.
I used some slide glide and slide glide lite. I think the lite worked better IMO.
The trigger pull basically has four parts as far as i can tell. the takeup that is mostly the trigger spring. Pushing up the FPS. Where the bent metal bit engages the sear, and moving of the sear.
between a buttload of dryfire with molly grease on parts that made contact (probably about 500-700 trigger pulls), removal and cleaning of striker, cleaning out of manufacturing grugne in the striker channel (was lots of plastic dust in there for some reason). I got it smoothed out a bit from box stock. There's stilla bit of gritty feeling that i believe is the FPB being pushed up the last little big while you start to engage the sear.
I think the FPB would benefit form a chamfer rather than a bevel, and a good polish. Jusding from the dryfire ith it coated in molly grease, the FPB rotates during use (deliberately or not i dont know). Which meand a bad hand "chamfering" via dremel might do bad things to the trigger pull.
Later I stoned the nubbin on the trigger bar to get rid of the rough spots form being stamped. This gave me smooth surfaces but a sharp corner, which didn';t work out so well. then polished the sharp corner off and that fixed it. takeup/pretravel is smoother and more even than before, but the "notch" where it picks up the load of the striker spring is still there.
According to other folks, with a stock glock striker spring (5.5lb) and a lighter trigger spring, they have gotten the trigger down to a bit under 4lbs.
*edit* went back and checked, using a stock glock striker spring cut down to the M&P length, they are lighting off ammo reliably and with a stock glock trigger spring and polishing, have the trigger down to about 3lb 10oz. *edit*
I have a stock glock spring on order to try out. I'm not going to try polishing the FPB without having a spare.
Ok, my glock striker spring came in. basically, you have to have BOTH halves of the spring cup in before you relese the spring, or the spring cup won't capture the spring. I also cut off about 2 coils of the glock spring. The trigger is a shade under 5 pounds just by doing that and polishing the striker body (not the bit that interfaces with the sear), and cleaning out the striker channel of plastic dust.
It still has that gritty notch, but I was unable to get the striker safety.firing pin block out to polish it. Despite the experience of others, the rear sight did not budge one bit.
It still has that gritty notch, but I was unable to get the striker safety.firing pin block out to polish it. Despite the experience of others, the rear sight did not budge one bit.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Join the discussion
