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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is anyone else experiencing an extremely tight take down lever?
Mine was almost impossible to rotate down to take off the slide and is just as tight after the slide is off or put back in place. Pretty much unusable.
 

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1st of all, don't get offended, but I have to ask: Have you read the manual for the proper procedure to take down the firearm? I don't know you so I, and others, need to know your level of experience with firearms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1st of all, don't get offended, but I have to ask: Have you read the manual for the proper procedure to take down the firearm? I don't know you so I, and others, need to know your level of experience with firearms.
Yes, I've read the manual and this is my first m&p but I did follow the manual for the takedown as it was my first time tearing it down. I own a glock 19 and have worked / cleaned that fairly often.
Other than that I'm not that versed in working with handguns.

However I've never come across a take down lever being this tight, granted the 19 doesn't have a lever.
Something is definitely off from what I can tell because it shouldn't take much pressure at all to flip the takedown lever down.
I'm going to contact Smith and Wesson Tuesday about the problem, but was curious if anyone else had this issue.

Thanks for commenting.
 

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Mine is a couple of months or so old and is still fairly stiff. But, is loosening up. When I clean the gun and have lever down, I will put some Ballistol on the part that slide rubs over. I would say it is firm now, but not real hard to push down. Shields seem to be stiff with the slide stop, take down lever and racking. But, I really like the gun and hopefully will make it my EDC.
 

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Have you had a chance to fire some rounds? I've had a few firearms that seemed stiff before, but after a few range sessions, they became more manageable.
 

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As a builder of 1911 and DYI firearms tech ( S&W, Colt and Ruger revolver trigger jobs, most all semis and rifles -AR to lever to Bolt actions, etc), I know that S&W and most other makers of firearms, the specs on (mostly MIMS ) parts are not perfect and some can be tight like you have (better to be tighter, than loose) and then they coat the parts and frames, etc. which result in thicker tolerances. They rely on you shooting and working the parts, until they work the coatings off and/or wear the part down to spec.
I, as a matter of procedure, I disassemble the gun and check all fittings, swap MIMS out for forged, and polish the parts and places where too tight (which is what shooting the gun hundreds of times does anyway, but I save the bullets for actual practice and improving my techniques, NOT breaking the gun in).
If that were my gun ( or you brought it to me) I'd take some 400 grit ( up to 1500G) sandpaper to the pin, and then wrap some around, like a coat hanger wire and run it into that pin hole a few times until that puppy worked smoothly like it should (a little tight, but not so tight you need a tool to operate it, and definitely NOT loose). But I also polish the slide and frame rails and put some grease along where the trigger bar lives and even touch up where the mag lives. FYI, two places I NEVER touch is the sear and the mag release.
IMO, S&W M&P is the BEST trigger of ANY 1911 out there. BAR none. I'm serious, I own a Caspian $3000 1911 and and have had Kimber, colt, Ruger, S&W Mod59 series and the M&P beats them all. I hate a Sig ( LONG trigger and the bore is a mile over your grip) and Glocks ( no good reason, just prefer American (if only in name) guns), but that's my personal choice. Now, Walther makes good guns. I've had the P-1, P-38, PPK, PPQ and the modern PP, PPQ are the most ergonomic and most natural point and shoot of the pistols out there, I'd LOVE to see S&W make a M&P with the ergonomics of Walther.
 

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The take down liver is fairly stiff because it has a stiff spring but it does rotate smoothly when the slide is locked back. The slide must be in the locked back position for the take down lever to rotate either way.
 
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