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They are not my instructions I just host them for all to see.



I don't like cutting down the "hump" I think it can make the trigger a little mushy. It is when cutting the hump that you have to be careful not to make it less then 90 degrees to the top of the sear.



Now I am in favor of cutting down the top of the sear. This is where they are talking about it not being a simple angle cut. you have to cut the whole top of the sear down not just an angle cut on the back side. Just don't get your sear to striker engagement less the 0.030 in.
 

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What you are calling the flare is what they are calling the hump.



I remove keep removing metal from the front of the sear where it contacts the trigger bar until the gun will not fire any longer then I remove from the top of the sear until it will fire again. this will usually leave you with about 0.040-0.030 engagement with the sear. Unless you figure out what you are doing I would recomend leaving it at this point any further and you risk ruining parts.



The only way I have found to reliably check sear engagement is to color your striker with a sharpie put the gun together and dry fire it a few time the remove the striker and measure how much of the sharpie has been removed.



By now this should be as clear as mud right :wink:
 

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When I buy sear blocks I buy them with the IL and Mag safe, then I can configure them any way I need to. The IL and mag safe are very easy to remove.
 
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