Many thanks Dan.
With my meager skills I was able to do a quite nice level one trigger job this morning.
Mike
With my meager skills I was able to do a quite nice level one trigger job this morning.
Mike
Trigger Job
Here is the post a lot of people have been waiting for.
This is not the 25 cent trigger job, it is the true trigger job.
I did not write these directions they were sent to me from someone wanting to help out.
M&P Trigger Job
enjoy,
Dan
This is not the 25 cent trigger job, it is the true trigger job.
I did not write these directions they were sent to me from someone wanting to help out.
M&P Trigger Job
enjoy,
Dan
1 - 20 of 102 Posts
when I get time I'll get to work.. I'd love to be able to brag about a self trigger job.
That was VERY informative. Thank you!
While I don't feel comfortable filing off metal from the internal parts, I would still like to reduce the over travel. I want to try to increase the size of the trigger stop protrusion inside the trigger guard behind the trigger. Does any one have a suggestion as to what the best material is to use to build up that area?
brownells has epoxy rifle bedding material that would work nice. acraglass gel I think its called.
I've used it to make palm swells on my rifle, and bed it before.
I've used it to make palm swells on my rifle, and bed it before.
The acraglass glass should work well for this. I haven't tried it on the M&P, but have had good success using a regular 2 part epoxy from wally world with a couple drops black testors paint to color.
I know regardless which one you use the key to getting it to work will be degreasing first even then not sure how well thess will stick long term on such a small area.
Dan
I know regardless which one you use the key to getting it to work will be degreasing first even then not sure how well thess will stick long term on such a small area.
Dan
I agree, with my luck if I did that work myself, the gun would never fire again.DANO said:While I don't feel comfortable filing off metal from the internal parts, I would still like to reduce the over travel. I want to try to increase the size of the trigger stop protrusion inside the trigger guard behind the trigger. Does any one have a suggestion as to what the best material is to use to build up that area?
So, how much would a trigger job like that cost? Will it void any warranty? I might be inclined to have the work done.Buckshot,
here is a link to my M&P servies page with pricing
M&P services
I am sure S&W will say this voids the waranty even though none of the parts are weakened. I know that most custom work esp trigger jobs voids the waranty.
Thanks,
Dan
here is a link to my M&P servies page with pricing
M&P services
I am sure S&W will say this voids the waranty even though none of the parts are weakened. I know that most custom work esp trigger jobs voids the waranty.
Thanks,
Dan
I know springfield never said anything about the trigger jobs on the XD's being sent in.. Now if it directly affected the area that malfunctioned then I can see.
Trigger Work
I would stay away from building up the over travel area on the frame. One of the best things about the over travel fix posted on the link is that it not only makes the reset shorter, it makes it much more positive. It does that by making the firing pin block and the sear reset on the trigger bar at the same time. If you build up on the frame to fix over travel, you may end up feeling two resets in the trigger. The first one is the FP block and the next one is the Sear. This is a very simple over travel fix. If you’re worried about making a mistake, send it out to a gunsmith and have him do it for you. Or, call Smith customer service and get an extra sear in case you need it.
Also, keep in mind that if you build up on the frame over travel stop, which could be considered an external modification? If you ever wanted to shoot IDPA or USPSA, that could be a big problem in SSP or Production class.
Just something to think about, it is your gun?
I would stay away from building up the over travel area on the frame. One of the best things about the over travel fix posted on the link is that it not only makes the reset shorter, it makes it much more positive. It does that by making the firing pin block and the sear reset on the trigger bar at the same time. If you build up on the frame to fix over travel, you may end up feeling two resets in the trigger. The first one is the FP block and the next one is the Sear. This is a very simple over travel fix. If you’re worried about making a mistake, send it out to a gunsmith and have him do it for you. Or, call Smith customer service and get an extra sear in case you need it.
Also, keep in mind that if you build up on the frame over travel stop, which could be considered an external modification? If you ever wanted to shoot IDPA or USPSA, that could be a big problem in SSP or Production class.
Just something to think about, it is your gun?
Trigger work
O'yeah, I forgot to mention. If you follow the instructions as they are posted, it is really easy to do. Just take your time only file a little at a time and test fit often. Mine is now just under 4 lbs with a very nice, very short reset. Runs like a champ!
O'yeah, I forgot to mention. If you follow the instructions as they are posted, it is really easy to do. Just take your time only file a little at a time and test fit often. Mine is now just under 4 lbs with a very nice, very short reset. Runs like a champ!
Yeah,
I guess I should have mentioned the feeling will not be the same. If you mess it up you can get replacement sears from from Smith. I called and they sent me a couple extras had them in 3 days I think.
As far as waranty work. Most all companies if you call and ask them they will tell you it voids the waranty, but if you send them the gun with another non associated problem they will still cover it. I, like the manufatures just tell people it voids the waranty period, even though this may not always be true.
Dan
I guess I should have mentioned the feeling will not be the same. If you mess it up you can get replacement sears from from Smith. I called and they sent me a couple extras had them in 3 days I think.
As far as waranty work. Most all companies if you call and ask them they will tell you it voids the waranty, but if you send them the gun with another non associated problem they will still cover it. I, like the manufatures just tell people it voids the waranty period, even though this may not always be true.
Dan
Trigger work
Dan has this one right I think. Most companies will only give you a hard time if the work directly affects what went wrong. For example, if you have trigger work done to the gun, and it is going full auto, they will not help you out. But, if for example, you have trigger work done to the gun, and the mag button breaks, I think they will take care of you. I belive there is some legal cases to back you up on this one as well.
Hope this helps.
Dan has this one right I think. Most companies will only give you a hard time if the work directly affects what went wrong. For example, if you have trigger work done to the gun, and it is going full auto, they will not help you out. But, if for example, you have trigger work done to the gun, and the mag button breaks, I think they will take care of you. I belive there is some legal cases to back you up on this one as well.
Hope this helps.
Dan, the link to the pdf version seems to be broken.
what would the best way to get a combat trigger job stage1? and polish the fp ? also i was wondering about robars np3 can i have this done on all my internal metal parts and still keep the out side of the slide black and the barrel black and does it reduce friction as much as they advertise
thank you
ps . great job on the trigger work page
![]()
thank you
ps . great job on the trigger work page
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Razo,
I think I fixed it. not sure what happened I thought I tested it yesterday. guess not
![]()
Killer,
yes do the level 1 and the polish the Striker face without removing any metal or changing the angle.
As far as the NP3 yep stuff is slicker than snot would it improve a M&Ps trigger? not without doing the trigger job first. I think the only advantage to the NP3 in the M&P would maybe a slight decrease in pull weight and maybe some better wear properties and may not need lube (depends on who you ask).
Would I recommend it just for the internals? in a word No. I couldn't recommend someone spend that kind of cash for the minimal return. especially when there other ways to get the trigger pulls as light as you want them.
Dan
I think I fixed it. not sure what happened I thought I tested it yesterday. guess not
Killer,
yes do the level 1 and the polish the Striker face without removing any metal or changing the angle.
As far as the NP3 yep stuff is slicker than snot would it improve a M&Ps trigger? not without doing the trigger job first. I think the only advantage to the NP3 in the M&P would maybe a slight decrease in pull weight and maybe some better wear properties and may not need lube (depends on who you ask).
Would I recommend it just for the internals? in a word No. I couldn't recommend someone spend that kind of cash for the minimal return. especially when there other ways to get the trigger pulls as light as you want them.
Dan
So Dan, what parts do I need to send you?
Thanks
Thanks
PDF seems to be working now.
As for NP3. The stuff is great, but only when appropriate. The M&P simply isn't tight enough frame to rails to bother for that. About the only internal piece I think MIGHT benefit would be the sear block, but that's a big maybe.
The only thing on the M&P I'd seriously consider getting NP3ed would be the magazines. NP3ed magazines are very nice if you can afford them. Very slick without being slippery and clean up in a snap.
I have a question for dan or anyone else who has done a trigger job on the M&P. I got myself a trigger scale, and assuming it can be relied upon, I was rather shocked at the trigger pulls on a lot of my guns. I was only right about one of them.
Apparantly I'm pretty happy with a smooth pivoting trigger of about 4lbs, or a crisp short trigger like a 1911 up to about 5lbs.
So question 1 is, how smooth is a 4lb trigger job on an M&P?
Question 2 is does the trigger job described in the pdf, which I assume is the same one you do more or less, increase the ammount of pre-travel/takeup? I've got pretty long fingers and pretty large hands, and I'm not real fond of triggers that break WAY to the rear (ala berettas and such).
As for NP3. The stuff is great, but only when appropriate. The M&P simply isn't tight enough frame to rails to bother for that. About the only internal piece I think MIGHT benefit would be the sear block, but that's a big maybe.
The only thing on the M&P I'd seriously consider getting NP3ed would be the magazines. NP3ed magazines are very nice if you can afford them. Very slick without being slippery and clean up in a snap.
I have a question for dan or anyone else who has done a trigger job on the M&P. I got myself a trigger scale, and assuming it can be relied upon, I was rather shocked at the trigger pulls on a lot of my guns. I was only right about one of them.
Apparantly I'm pretty happy with a smooth pivoting trigger of about 4lbs, or a crisp short trigger like a 1911 up to about 5lbs.
So question 1 is, how smooth is a 4lb trigger job on an M&P?
Question 2 is does the trigger job described in the pdf, which I assume is the same one you do more or less, increase the ammount of pre-travel/takeup? I've got pretty long fingers and pretty large hands, and I'm not real fond of triggers that break WAY to the rear (ala berettas and such).
RPadgett2,
Sorry right now I need the whole gun. I couldn't guarantee good reset and pull without having the whole thing here. I am still hopeful that I will get a "drop in" trigger job out sometime in the near future, but I am still working out the details yet. of course the drop in would not be as good as the real thing, but should be close. I post up more about the drop in when I get all worked out.
Dan
Sorry right now I need the whole gun. I couldn't guarantee good reset and pull without having the whole thing here. I am still hopeful that I will get a "drop in" trigger job out sometime in the near future, but I am still working out the details yet. of course the drop in would not be as good as the real thing, but should be close. I post up more about the drop in when I get all worked out.
Dan
1 - 20 of 102 Posts
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