[Tornado_Racing]

Tornado: I lost my frame key plug before. Get them from Brownells. $1.09/each or from S&W directly. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=m--...earch=m--p_plug



Sounds like all the striker blocks are standard according to the guys in this thread. I posted the same question to Apex and didn't get an answer back yet. I'll remove the ILS (internal lock system) 'holeoctomy' this w end and see how it goes.



This is were you order the RAM from Apex. https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid44.html

I dropped in one of their competition hard sears and they improve the trigger nicely also.

I've installed the DCAEK and was amazed on the difference before and after. I would like to install the RAM but my M&P has the Key Lock. I haven't knocked it out yet but will be doing the MOD on Thursday as I'm ordering the RAM and plug tonight.

 

[mig1nc]

It was mentioned in the thread that buying sear blocks was relatively cheap.



Can you just order a new sear block from the 109303 model without the internal lock and what not and be done with it?



Granted, the mod is free. I just thought I would ask.

 

[jasonuscg]

It was mentioned in the thread that buying sear blocks was relatively cheap.



Can you just order a new sear block from the 109303 model without the internal lock and what not and be done with it?



Granted, the mod is free. I just thought I would ask.

Example.

http://www.google.com/search?q=M%26P+SEAR+...ved=0CAoQ_AUoBA

 

[SMMAssociates]

I can't speak for Midway, but it's my understanding that Brownells is now only stocking the "full" version of the block (but maybe without the thumb safety).



There are some instructions around here someplace to remove the Hilary Lock, and removing the mag safety is pretty trivial stuff other than finding a spring to keep the sear block from flopping around - any old spring ought to work.



If you're going to dump the Hilary Lock, you need to pick up (or fabricate) a plug for the hole in the grip.



Removing the Hilary Lock is about as easy as popping the sear block out of the frame - the lock assembly is held in place by a washer on the key side of the block, but don't ask me how to get it out

. Basically you dig it out and toss it away.... The example I saw had the washer being replaced, but there's no need.



Finally, Mas Ayoob paranoia: It's never a good idea to remove manufacturer-supplied safety devices. Even something as silly as this....



However, Mas is really more experienced with LEO's who are more likely to be sued anyway. The good thing about the Hilary Lock on the M&P is that it's designed to be easily removed, or installed, and the plug isn't even a tight fit.... So admit nothing

....



If you can't find the lock removal article, holler and I'll dig around - I think I bookmarked it, but use four different machines to visit, and I'm not sure which one I bookmarked it on....



AND it's also my understanding that the MA-Compliant sear spring and plunger are NOT necessarily available anywhere at this time. Apex seems to have a supply of the plungers, are modifying existing sear blocks, and has springs from someplace. Even if you can get your hands on the plunger and spring, the cut in the block requires some skill and a good milling machine. The former day job had the tools, but it's only been about 17 years

.... (I expect that even I could do it, but the wife doesn't want to hear about the mill....

)



Regards,

 

[The Fish]

Can someone post a link to a retailer with the key hole plug and RAM? Gonna try the MOD and would like to get all the required parts from one location.

Speed Shooter Specialties has all.



Also; if it wasn't made clear,if you install the RAM AND you have a mag safety,you have to get a special weaker RAM spring from Apex.

Otherwise,the mag safety arm does not operate freely and you have no mag safety.

Or,of course,you can just remove the mag safety and have a "prettier" slide.

 

[mig1nc]

Example.

http://www.google.com/search?q=M%26P+SEAR+...ved=0CAoQ_AUoBA

DOH! I was google-slapped!

Good to know, honestly those are cheap enough that I would just buy the new unit.

 

[jasonuscg]

DOH! I was google-slapped!

Good to know, honestly those are cheap enough that I would just buy the new unit.

I had no hostile intent in that post.

AFAIK Brownell's only has the one sear housing block.



SSS does have the holy grail without both locks for $30, it's on page two of this link.

http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/cat...arts&cnt=12



Here is the direct link.

http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/cat...%20mag%20safety

 

[The Fish]

Just removed my Internal Lock and then tried to install the Apex Ram Kit.

The RAM arm would not go all the way thru.

Discovered the reason was that I had created a tiny burr at the beginning of the hole when punching out the lock from the right side.

Suggestion;Using a 1/8 in. punch make sure you are centered on the lock assembly so that you don't hit the body of the sear block right around the hole and create a burr in the first place.

If you do create a burr,use a 1/8 in. drill bit to open up the hole and remove the burr.

This technique was OK'd by Apex and worked for me.

 

[doubletap13]

Those of you who did remove your lock, I assume you have since test-fired and confirmed that what you did worked?

 

[SMMAssociates]

doubletap:



Over the month since The Fish posted the last message in the thread, you'd think somebody would have tried it

....



However, since I don't really know how the Hilary Lock works (I'm guessing it forces the sear to stay engaged regardless of trigger action), your post is prudent.



I have the feeling that removing it does nothing special except to remove whatever block is applied to the sear.



Anybody know? I'm not about to buy a gun with it, even though it's fairly easy to remove. Besides, between the wife and the VISA card, it'll be a while....



Regards,

 

[waktasz]

I can't speak for everyone else, but I removed the lock from the replacement sear block I got from Brownells before I put it in my M&P Pro and have probably shot 800-1000 rounds since then. No issues.



Took the mag safety out at that point too as a matter of fact.

 

[doubletap13]

I can't speak for everyone else, but I removed the lock from the replacement sear block I got from Brownells before I put it in my M&P Pro and have probably shot 800-1000 rounds since then. No issues.



Took the mag safety out at that point too as a matter of fact.

Good to know.

Thanks

 

[Tornado_Racing]

I have removed the mag safety & internal lock with no issues out of my pistol. You guys here were very helpfull with part location and tips for the removal/install. I've now installed a full DCEAK, RAM (had to remove the internal lock), and removed the mag safety all with help from this forum.



The DCEAK and RAM are night-n-day over the stock parts so thanks for the help guys.



Tony Moffre

Tornado_Racing

 

[RockBottom]

So, does anyone know of someone every having a problem with the internal lock locking unintentionally?

 

[TOF]

So, does anyone know of someone every having a problem with the internal lock locking unintentionally?

The locks and guns act the same. They only fire or lock themselves on the third moon in the month of July. Stay out of that time zone and you should be aok.

 

[PC Geek Shooter]

Thanks so much for this.



I just installed the Apex FSS and Trigger, but I got the newer Sear Housing Block with the bigger sear plunger and spring. It had the Internal Lock. I could not get the new sear housing in my gun. The washer kept grabbing on that plastic or aluminum plug. So I took out the plug and the sear went in within 10 seconds.



It was about 5 hours after I should of went to bed and I finally gave up last night. So tonight I took out that stupid internal lock and I got the sear in within a minute.



Thanks again.

 

[Lefty Gunner]

Quick hint for the Frame Key Plug......



Carefully increase the diameter of the end of the plug by hitting the external surface with a center punch placed exactly in the middle of the diameter. Start easy and test fit. When you reach the right amount of upset the plug press fits into the frame and does not get lost the 3 or 4 times it usually does during reassembly!



The dimple in the center of the plug looks OK when assembled.

 

[KRWeiss]

Quick hint for the Frame Key Plug...

One dot of silicone sealant worked fine for me, YMMV.

 

[waktasz]

I lost that thing the first time I took my gun apart. I'm pretty sure I don't miss it.

 

[jackrabbit000]

Thanks for starting this thread and taking the time to post the pics. I just received my new upgraded sear housing block from Brownell's with the 1/8" sear spring and plunger. Going to remove the internal lock and mag safety and rebuild it with the parts from my 5" Pro Series sear housing block.

Update >> put the sear housing block in a vise and only the slightest tap with a punch and the internal lock, spring and washer popped off. So simple to do.